It’s the caption where 2 part numbers are called item 8. Does the wheel arch liner need to come off too?

Item 8 on RHD V8s is made up of two pieces:

4D2422893D - pressure hose front half
4D2422893M - pressure hose rear half

The union between the two is in the passenger side wheel arch. Jack it up and have a look with a torch for this:

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1518372744

The return hose is directly underneath it.

Ah Ok, I'll need to check the online parts thingy with the parts numbers against MJs post agai n. Maybe I made a mistake and she was talking about the V6 2-part hose?? [edit; see MJs post above]

The wheel arch liner doesnt need to come off to check the condition. +++

Thanks guys. Even after many years on this forum, I still find myself amazed at how helpful (and QuickTime respond) everyone is. I know it’s been said before, but the members of this forum are absolutely essential in me being able to continue to enjoy my ‘8s.

I am about to dive into this, or under the wheel arch :)
What can I use to remove power steering fluid off the subframe and other parts?
Its probably too late it may have damaged the subframe paint already.
Is something like laundry powder or even fairy liquid ok? Or should I get a proper degreaser like Gunk from Halfords?
Thanks!

Yours is different, being LHD. It won't have that union - I think the hose just goes straight on to the rack. If its leaking though I presume it also has a steel piece through the wheel well which has rusted away the same as RHD versions.

PS fluid isn't corrosive - its just oil, so shouldn't have affected the subframe paint. Brake cleaner is best for stuff like that. Spray it on and it will dissolve the oil and take it away with it without damaging anything. Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOLTS-PRO...UAAOSwx6pYpbAt

Don't use carb cleaner or tar remover as they are too aggressive, or laundry detergents as they are generally alkaline and not good for aluminium! Gunk is very effective, but the smell is dreadful and lasts for ages. It also eats driveways! A mild engine degreaser would also work.

Thanks Mikki, good advice I will keep laundry powder well away from the car :)
Yes on my car the delivery pipe is one piece. Looks like its well protected (crimp joints covered by thick foam rubber) and already painted.
Only the return hose has the crimp joints exposed.

I found this not-so-good site which has some D2 manuals on it. Seems that the banjos on the pump are both 50nm so need to be quite tight. I couldn't find settings for the ones on the rack end but I will assume 50Nm also as one of them is high pressure.
The high pressure hose bolt on the pump is a real pain, the hose fr the reservoir is in the way. I'll have to loosen it and move that hose to get to the bolt.

http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/s8_...iew/page_3803/

Its funny how when doing something else you find unrelated things. I think I found my gearbox oil leak. The hoses/pipes look good and dry all the way to the radiator. But on the gearbox one of the banjo bolts appears to be missing a washer, and that pipe and bolt are covered in oil. So that's my next job, to replace that bolt or at least the washers. At least it looks like I dont need the out of production hoses! for now...

Found the info for the rack banjos on the above site. Weirdly the high pressure hose bolt is 40Nm, the return hose bolt is 50Nm.
Oh well, who am I to question Audi instructions :)

Could be because they are different size bolts so they want different torques to get the same clamping pressure on the crush washers :)

You are so smart, I would have never thought of that +++

For me it turned out more than 1 day's job, I thought I could get a shallow socket to undo the bolts at the rack, but quickly realised it would not fit. I have one of those gooseneck/offset spanners but that would not fit either. So I went on a stroll to halfords to get some spanners. Now I manage to loosen most of the bolts, but what almost finished me off was the two 10mm bolts in the rubber+steel clip holding the pipes close to the bulkhead so they dont wonder into the spring. Audi put this clip right behind the spring they are a pain to get to. Plus the rubber they go through makes them spring back when you try to unwind them half a turn.
For those bolts luckily I had a tiny 10mm spanner I bought from a pound shop for my rc planes. It did the trick because it could fit behind the spring and do a half turn on the bolt. Also a manual rubber flexi drive helped but its not great quality, it was almost not flexi enough. It helped speed up the bolt after it was already loose.
And by then it was dark so I left final removal and re-fitting of new pipes for another day. What a job!

I was thinking if anyone wants to torque up the rack bolts with a small torque wrench, something like this small crows foot might work.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flare-Nut...QINYNVRpEb4B6Q

I forgot to say, anyone attempting this job, you will need 22mm and 19mm wrenches and sockets. The bolt on the pump is 22mm, the bolts on the rack are 22mm and 19mm
And a tiny 10mm spanner for the bracket in the wheel well, a flexi drive will be useful too. And if like in my case your pump to reservoir pipe is blocking the other pump bolt you will need a 24mm socket to loosen and move that pipe out of the way.