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-   -   Parking Brake Malfunction - Contact Workshop! (https://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=11087)

snapdragon 23rd January 2016 01:44 PM

Parking Brake Malfunction - Contact Workshop!
 
I now have a "Parking Brake Malfunction - Contact Workshop!" message, continuous alarm sound and many flashing lights on the cluster.

I have had a problem with the connector getting damp and corroded in the past and it is is on the same left side but this time it looks OK and have cleaned anyway to no avail. Also did various adaptions in VCDS and this side never operates.

I have measured with a multimeter pins 1 and 4 from the caliper and there is 0 ohms resistance. I thought this was a good sign, so connected 12v jump leads from the car battery to these pins and just get a spark which ever way round. It does sound like something tries to move inside.
Now I am wondering if the centre two pins fire a relay or something?
Does anyone have any idea how to test further?

Thanks.


Code:

  Address 53: Parking Brake      Labels: 4E0-910-801.clb
Control Module Part Number: 4E0 910 801 D    HW: 4E0 907 801 B
  Component and/or Version: EPB  A4EC0230  H03 0230
          Software Coding: 0000221
            Work Shop Code: WSC 00097 210 194805
                      VCID: 20446925F395753E51-8074
Fault Codes have been Erased

02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
            012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
            Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 11111100
                    Fault Priority: 1
                    Fault Frequency: 11
                    Reset counter: 209
                    Mileage: 58528 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2016.01.22
                    Time: 16:50:31

            Freeze Frame:
                    Voltage: 11.08 V
                    Count: 86


Delboy 23rd January 2016 02:24 PM

0 ohms is a dead short, have you taken readings from the other side?

snapdragon 23rd January 2016 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delboy (Post 105310)
0 ohms is a dead short, have you taken readings from the other side?

Thanks Delboy, I think that's a good idea will try that.
Thankfully it is stuck off rather than on.
The error occurred while driving at 40mph so I once would think it was just some sensor or wiring issue.

Mechcanico Lee 23rd January 2016 04:13 PM

Two outer pins drive the motor , two inner pins current sensing maybe ??

Sounds like a duff caliper , did one on a Passat through the week , doing same as yours .... sparking when you try to drive it either way

tersono 23rd January 2016 06:31 PM

Had the same problem last year. Turned out to be a faulty caliper.

snapdragon 24th January 2016 10:23 AM

Thanks for the tips. A bit of an update... I removed the two T30 screws holding the motor to the caliper, cleaned inside and outside with electrical cleaner and took inside the house and tested with a 12v power supply on the outer pins and the motor worked.

So I cleaned up the pins even more and bent the female ones in more to make them tighter. I took it back out and plugged it back in. The wires are not in great shape as 7years ago Audi London did a terrible repair.

I left the motor hanging loose and I removed Audi London's tape and connected a multimeter to the exposed wire so I could see it in the mirror and turned on ignition and VCDS and saw the voltage change from 0.000v
and went out and saw it was working. I cleared the code and it has gone and now have a new code: Pad not reaching disc or similar.

So the caliper is OK, but wiring isn't. I am now debating whether to cut out damaged 7-8mm and resolder all 4 with heat shrink or get a new connector and wiring kits, grommet inserts etc...

Delboy 24th January 2016 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snapdragon (Post 105326)
Thanks for the tips. A bit of an update... I removed the two T30 screws holding the motor to the caliper, cleaned inside and outside with electrical cleaner and took inside the house and tested with a 12v power supply on the outer pins and the motor worked.

So I cleaned up the pins even more and bent the female ones in more to make them tighter. I took it back out and plugged it back in. The wires are not in great shape as 7years ago Audi London did a terrible repair.

I left the motor hanging loose and I removed Audi London's tape and connected a multimeter to the exposed wire so I could see it in the mirror and turned on ignition and VCDS and saw the voltage change from 0.000v
and went out and saw it was working. I cleared the code and it has gone and now have a new code: Pad not reaching disc or similar.

So the caliper is OK, but wiring isn't. I am now debating whether to cut out damaged 7-8mm and resolder all 4 with heat shrink or get a new connector and wiring kits, grommet inserts etc...

You may have to do an adaptation because the motor is in a different place, or did you get the error with the caliper off the carrier.

if you post a picture of the damaged wiring I can maybe point you in the right direction for suitable repair depending on the damage.

I have to repair and make cable for the sub all the time and they have to be water proof for thousands of meters water depth.

Mechcanico Lee 24th January 2016 11:15 AM

The sub has brake calipers ?? ;)

Lee S 24th January 2016 11:43 AM

Yeah... have you never seen the size of the discs on a Rolls Royce nuclear reactor? They're massive... :ROFL:

snapdragon 24th January 2016 12:35 PM

Thanks chaps. Maybe a wiring problem after all?
After testing in the house, I thought at least the motor and gearbox is OK.
Maybe the hall sensors are duff but cannot test.
I tested the two outer thicker cables resistance again, it was ~2OHM - I think I made a decimal place mistake last time when the multimeter was on the beep function.

I have cut the two damaged thick cables and resoldered them using my last bit of environmentally-unfriendly lead solder. Resealed the connector. for now but want to get one in stock and replace if it goes again.
I removed the big o-ring from the caliper and cleaned it all up and put silicone grease on. Blob of Tamiya grease in the torx-style caliper drive shaft. All seems ok now.

Screws to remove the motor were really stiff and I had to use the mole-grips on a T30 torx. I used blue loctite on refitting screws as it keeps moisture out and de-oxidises (reducing agent). I wouldn't fancy using the torx tool that comes in the car's tool kit! Once the motor is removed, you can wind the park brake caliper plunger back with a T40 torx, that turns VERY easily.

I looked at greasing the EPB gearbox but is is in the motor half that you can't get into so just used a little silicone spray in the exposed side to keep the moisture at bay - I also think grease may damage the nylon toothed belt that is in there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAGR1bd_8KQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThVKwHJWTLA

For future reference, the loom-side connector part number is 1J0919231
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Allro...582661446.html

although on this one the outer wires on the EPB are more like 4mm thick so will try and find the right type and replace them.

Architex_mA8tey 24th January 2016 12:55 PM

I've bookmarked this rear epb on eBay if it's any use . . .
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-GB

snapdragon 3rd April 2016 02:51 PM

Well, now I have another EPB problem on the same side.
Usual beeps, messages and icons, the brake was stuck on a bit.

Brake disk not reached.
Clamping force not achieved.

When the EPB is applied or de-engaged, it whirs for about 30 seconds as though a cog has stripped or a cogwheel clutch is slipping.

I removed the motor and operated the EPB and the motor and gear did turn
but noisily. I wound back the caliper with a T45 torx but when I refitted the motor it stuck it put the brake back on and left it there :mad:

I think I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor. They seem to start at about £220 which is almost the price of an exchange caliper. I'd rather just get the motor though to save opening the hydraulics and save the core charge while I return my old one and hope they deem it 'serviceable'.
I also notice that some exchange units don't have that thick foil/tin shield all over the plastic motor housing, what is that for? Interference? When you buy a new one from Audi, it comes flat and is self-adhesive you have to stick it on.

Has anyone seen them cheaper that £220?
Will try TPS on monday.

Architex_mA8tey 3rd April 2016 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snapdragon (Post 109339)
I think I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor. They seem to start at about £220 which is almost the price of an exchange caliper.
Has anyone seen them cheaper that £220?
Will try TPS on monday.

That's about right but you're not allowing for the surcharge coming back off that - at ECP recently I paid £230 for one less a £60 surcharge by taking in my old unit when I bought the new one so only £170 paid +++

snapdragon 3rd April 2016 05:43 PM

Thanks Architex, ECP seem to have doubled the price, maybe they are about to do a up to 50% off everything sale?
I managed to cut the lid off this thing and found it had cracked in what is the usual place. That may be the problem, it also had signs of rust and water ingress. I have washed the thing in brake cleaner and petrol until it ran clear. I can't see anything else wrong with it. there is no clutch. My current theory is that the swash plate assembly was able to pop past it's stops and the T45 spline drive was popping out of the brake caliper.
I can't see how the belt could slip or these cogs slip and the wobble-plate cogs/swash plate seem to tight and not damaged.

I intend on greasing it, fixing the plastic and maybe shimming or bushing out any slop and try again.

Looking on google, this is a common problem on VWs which is the same design but not an identical part and there are a few Passat threads about fixing them.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...5/IMG_3179.mp4

Somerandomguy 4th April 2016 05:50 PM

Cleaning it an glueing the motor back on will only work for a little while, the problem is that the motor mount corrodes which expands the mount and forces the cracks open again.

If you just replace the motor and not the caliper, there's a high likelihood that the new motor will crack again fairly soon because of the corrosion.

snapdragon 8th April 2016 08:20 PM

Today I refitted the part after, I plastic-welded and JB-welded with fibre-glass mat the casing and put everything back in greased with special silicone grease and resealed the lid on. Fired up and exactly the same. :mad:
The drive belt is rotating the big cog but when I apply resistance (to simulate brake applied) to the output drive the wobble-plate 50:1 reducer slips and makes the noise I was hearing. Everything was sound as a pound and smooth in the house so it must just be too much wear in everything, especially the offset shaft of the swashplate and it can't transfer the load anymore, thankfull ECP have put the price back down so ordered a new caliper +++ Thanks guys.

Somerandomguy 8th April 2016 08:25 PM

If its not too late, ECP have 15% off with the code DISCOUNT15

snapdragon 9th April 2016 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Somerandomguy (Post 109827)
If its not too late, ECP have 15% off with the code DISCOUNT15

Thanks chap I used it and the base price is less than last week.+++

snapdragon 13th April 2016 11:43 AM

Thanks everyone, I got the new part from ECP and they refunded my core charge the next day in the branch - so worked out about £190.

The new caliper and EPB assembly looks beautiful and new, interestingly, it pulls more amps during operation (~2.5 vs ~1.5A) and operates a bit slower than the other side.
I suppose it's tight and must need running in. The new one looks brand new, not refurbished. I'm going to change the rubber brake hoses too as I strained the one on that side a bit as I didn't know it needed disconnecting from the inboard side before unscrewing off the caliper and don't trust it's integrity.

Nikkei92 9th June 2016 06:25 PM

Another Parking Brake Malfunction
 
Hello,


I have another Parking Brake Malfunction. Same code as snapdragon had at the beginning.


Code:

Address 53: Parking Brake        Labels: 4E0-910-801.clb
  Part No SW: 4E0 910 801 A    HW: 4E0 907 801
  Component: EPB  AV1C1010  H01 1010 
  Revision: AV1C1010   
  Coding: 0000331
  Shop #: WSC 00656 210 88563
  VCID: 1D3B9B93C43580D675-8048

1 Fault Found:
02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
            012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
            Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 11111100
                    Fault Priority: 1
                    Fault Frequency: 16
                    Reset counter: 103
                    Mileage: 233128 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2003.03.05
                    Time: 07:00:35


- Both 30A fuses near by battery are OK.
- I bought a new motor to the left side but that didn't help at all. Also tried to install motors to the different sides but still problem stays at the left side. Just wanted to make sure a new motor is not broken already.
- I measured with a multimeter a whole wire from motor to control unit and its OK.
- I bought an used control unit with part number SW 4E0 910 801 D and installed it today but still, same fault code.


I have not changed a caliper, but it doesn't make sense to me how it would make any difference in this case, when fault code says "Electrical Fault in Circuit"?


Does anyone have any idea how to test further?
Is there any tricks what i should try with VCDS?
I haven't found any relays or fuses to the EPB except those two 30A in luggage?


Thanks.


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