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I've been having problems with my car and someone from Ebay said this will sort it
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Where would that go on a 5-speed auto? :Confused:
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so i purchased his knob and it didn't fit so i had to change the shaft thingy which he described as a linkage.
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his so called linkage wouldn't connect either and sold me another part
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Are you using an 01E or something later?
Ha! posts crossed in the ether. 0A2? |
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that didn't fit either so i changed suppliers but he sold me more stuff it was shinny, it did bolt on but my car still didn't work
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I think I know where this is leading......
http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploa...1147675458.jpg |
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apparently its a 0A3 from a B7 RS4 what ever that is. anyway once cleaned it up a bit it all bolted together.
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Good stuff :) Looks like you're going to beat me to it then - my FE has three pedals and an 01E but no engine!
Are you doing the swap yourself? |
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it all bolted together nicely. i made some temporary adjustable gearbox mounts so i could adjust the box position up/down /left/right from under the car. lengthened the linkage 90mm
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so the gear knob does fit but you have to change a few parts. And I've still finish my driveshafts, prop, clutch pedal, ecu. its all doable but it just takes time. Dave
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Good effort and :respekt: |
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Hi MikkiJayne yes all on my own. mike said you had started yours I've still plenty todo I'm just working through everything as i get to it. Dave
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No RHD manual D2s for 22 years and then two come along at once :D
Interesting to see that the B/C chassis shifter setup fits in the D2 body. The factory D2 shifter is characteristically arcane and higgledy piggledy for no apparent reason. It'll be interesting to compare notes when we're both finished +++ Quote:
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You folks make this stuff look easy!
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Nice use of a hand pallet truck!
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The pump truck is mikes idea from his engine removal thread. After getting the car up on the ramp and looking at the bellhousing bolts and starter motor.
it would be a nightmare just removing the gearbox. when the car was assembled at the factory the engine and box go in together. it really was very easy to remove the front of the car disconnect, everything and just wheel it out. most things are easy to get at, no seized bolts! beautifully designed and engineered and a joy to work on. i did have access to full workshop with ramp, gearbox jacks,engine crane and mechanic mate. But i chose to just do it outside in the sun on my own, all i needed was trolly jack, axle stands, pump truck, ratchet strap, and some blocks of wood and a few tools. It was very easy and most people could do it at home on there drive. its all made to be assembled quickly and efficiently. with a few adjustable legs welded onto the pump truck or a frame! instead of the timbers i used, installation would be even easier keeping it at the correct angle so the subframe bolts are easy to put in. |
What did you do for your pedal set up and master cylinder to get the clutch working?
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How did I miss this thread???? :D
Well done Dave! +++ I hope I get to see the car in person soon. Please post up more pics of the conversion. If I remember from the audisrs thread the 0A3 doesn't have a speed signal or something, how did you get this to work? |
I love these sort of threads - well done!
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Pictures of pedal boxes from both of you please :)
+++ Dave, so is the 0A3 a direct bolt on to the 40V V8? No adaptor plate needed? Amazing! |
I've not started on the clutch pedal fully yet just looked at it. My next job is the front driveshafts and if these do end up being custom made, they would probably take a few weeks to make so I need to order them when I'm happy with the length. But at the moment I'm looking through VAG Driveshaft catalogues trying to find OEM ones that fit. Yes Goran the box just bolts up fine using all the original bolts (just needs a stepped nut making for I think it was the starter side. At fist glance it looks like the speedo just needs a 8tooth (I need to check this before I start making one) trigger wheel off the n/s front inner tripod joint. At the moment I'm just fitting it in when I can no rush.
Dave |
The 0A3 is fitted in the S4 with a 40v V8
The gearbox is a ZF unit model 466 and the same family as a Porsche Boxster and Cayman A4, A6, skoda superb ,so is a modular unit. Dave |
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Goran i'm very disappointed in you for missing this thread!
MikkiJayne I've looked a little at the c6/7 A6 but I've not found any that are perfect yet on the skf website and i'd rather not use spacers. i did notice 01E sides cover looked the same, but i didn't to want buy a gearbox to find out i was mistaken. i think my fbg has 8 trigger magnets but I've not opened it up yet. Dave |
I'm a bit busy at the moment, but if I get time before you figure it out yourself I'll fish both boxes out and have a look at the covers +++
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I just remembered a thread I came across some time ago posted on an unusual forum (not an Audi forum, and not really a car forum - none of us would have any reason to visit it other than courtesy of Mr Google).
You may know of the guy who posted it, he used to frequent the AudiSport forum I think, as he has done a number of B5 A4 V8 conversions in the UK. Anyhow, a few years back he bought a D2 S8 with the intention to do a RHD manual conversion. He never completed it (or started it AFAIK) as he sold the car. However he did post the following observations on the oddball forum: Quote:
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Nollywood?
I'm not sure what the reference to the bulge in the floorpan is. There's loads of space with the footrest out - nothing needs modifying on the floor. The footrest just needs to be made narrower to make room for three pedals with OE spacing. |
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The beauty of the RHD pedal casting is that it already has room on the shaft for a clutch pedal. The stock brake pedal can be used too, just the foot pad plate needs to be made narrower and either welded on to a different position to give more space between the clutch and brake, or if you have access to a industrial metal bender the brake pedal can be bent to a new shape for the right pad placement. Only the clutch pedal needs to be custom made. And a custom mounting bracket for the master cylinder. |
so close!!!
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I'd already started on the custom gearbox mounts when a pair of skoda superb gearbox mounts appeared on Evilbay! i'd almost given up looking for these. i had done the research and these could fit and a nice off the shelf solution would make this conversion easy and cheap for me and everyone else. £40 delivered it was worth the gamble after all its the same gearbox family. anyway they arrived eventually and i offered them up! only 35mm out in one direction from being perfect. so if the subframe was parallel i could move the rear lower gearbox mounting base (cut it off and reweld) i'm not that keen on that solution . or make a offset base and use the skoda mounts, this easier and cheaper. not many people would want to spend £400-500 on CNC,d gearbox mounts.
Dave |
Ooh good find. I thought everything with that gearbox used the crossmember style mount.
If I understand correctly, you're going to make an adapter piece which will sit between the D2 subframe and the Skoda mounts? |
Yes between the subframe and the gearbox mounting rubbers
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I cant remember how much they were, something around £100? |
Hi Goran I'm not sure they'd fit my gearbox (I did think I'd checked) but maybe I didn't! Do they look the same fitment to you?
Dave |
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These are the RS4 ones
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Pretty sure they are different. I can have a look later though.
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I guess it has to be some customization to fit it onto a D2 subframe. Shame machining costs are so much. Random crazy idea, I have seen home made foundrys on google that can cast aluminium, but I'm not sure how easy it is to cast the right grade or how strong such low pressure castings would be? Perhaps Audi's castings are under pressure and denser/stronger? |
They look sand-cast so nothing out of the ordinary. Just webs where the strength needs to be. Problem with that for short runs is that you do need to machine the mounting points after casting.
Tbh I'd just make them from aluminium stock. Make a mockup from MDF, then transfer that to aluminium bar or plate, then take the pieces and get them tig welded. If they become NLA I'll copy the factory 01E mounts like that by making a steel jig. Get the alu parts laser cut, bolt them to the jig and get them tigged together. Extrapolating, you could make them from steel even more easily, and if you used thin wall tube with bracing you'd be maybe 2-3 times the weight of an alu part, but overall still far lighter than the 5hp24 :) |
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