Selling advice
 

Hi Guys

I bought a D2 S8 at the start of the year that had been off the road for 7 years with the intention of getting it going again and using it. As with most projects I have ran out of steam. It’s a 2002 model with 160k miles. It has a fully stamped book. I have replaced the fuel pump, battery, springs, refurbished the front callipers and it had had new discs and pads all round.

It still needs a good service and timing belt done for peace of mind. It runs and drives but can’t really go anywhere with it due to lack of mot. It also has a few warning lights on for ABS which I’m assuming is a rusty ABS ring and eml which Im unsure on the cause.

I am looking for advice on what you guys think the car is worth? I would add pictures but I’m not very good at the whole forum thing. 🤦🏼*♂️ any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Andy.

Hi Andy,
Its sort of hello and goodbye then:ROFL:
Pictures, build sticker and more pictures plus a VCDS scan if you can get that done are the only way you'll get a decent appraisal. Where are you? perhaps a forum member can help with a scan etc?

Its never a rusty ABS ring. Usually a front wheel sensor or the G200 lateral acceleration sensor. EML could be anything from vacuum hoses to £:eek:

A rolling project is usually £1-2K at best. If it can't be properly driven to prove the gearbox works then you're looking at the bottom end of that, unless its a rare spec or colour.

However, a working FL2 S8 with MoT and documented new parts can be 4-6K depending on overall condition.

As David said, you need a VCDS scan as a priority so you can understand why its not happy and whether any of the issues are quick / simple. Some pictures will help a lot +++ Several of us can look up the full spec from the reg.

Thanks for getting back to me guys. I am in Edinburgh if any one is able to lend a hand and read the car. I got hold of a friends OBDeleven reader and got the following codes earlier tonight -

Power supply terminal 30 - P1602 - static
Bank 1 and 2 secondary air system - P1423/P1411 - intermittent
crank pos. sensor - P1347 - intermittent

I have attached a link to some picture. I've never been able to post photos on forums. Get all mixed up with brackets and things 😂

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...usp=share_link

Ok so those codes are fairly simple, at least for the engine anyway.

The T30 one is probably from the battery being disconnected so you can clear and ignore that.

The two secondary air codes are perished vacuum hoses - buy a couple of metres of 4mm braided vac hose and replace those one at a time.

The crank position sensor is simple enough to replace through the left front wheel well. 077905381G, or Bosch 0261210192, about £50. If that fails completely it'll stop the engine running.

You may still need VCDS to see what the ABS is reporting. Not sure whether OBDeleven can do that or not.

It looks quite smart from the pictures so I'd be inclined to fix the niggles and get an MoT on it as that will significantly increase its value.

I would love to get it finished but its more down to funds is I'm honest. Don't have the money to invest in it. Like you are saying I don't think it would take much to get in on the road. I also replaced one of the vacuum actuators on the front of the plenum.

:love: Ming Blue! Same as mine just across the country in Helensburgh! And 20" wheels which I lack........ Whatever you do dont get rid of it without telling me first!
Are you in Haddington/North Berwick - i kind of recognise those houses!

Not far off so good effort. I’m very close to the Fort retail park. If you are interested in it let me know. It will need to go at somepoint. Not going to lie I have fallen in love with it so will be sad to see it go. Sounds amazing.

Is it a standard exhaust?

I don’t think so. I haven't had it on a ramp but from what I’ve seen it looks like a full system has been fitted at some point.

Ideally get hold of VCDS, clear those codes, run the car (round the block if you can) and scan again, see what it finds. Some "might" be quite old. ;)

Are you around tomorrow during the day, Andy?

I can be. Have to pick the kids up between 3-4pm but other than that I am about.

pm'd+++

So David very kindly came through to Edinburgh to have a look at the car today and plugged in his laptop to see what codes we where getting. So after clearing the faults and going for a quick run these are the codes that where returned -

16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)
P0328 - 35-00 - Signal too High
16717 - Knock Sensor 2 (G66)
P0333 - 35-00 - Signal too High
00301 - ABS Return Flow Pump (V39)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
01300 - Control Module for Navigation with CD-Rom (J401)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01304 - Radio
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
35-00 - -
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
76-00 - Terminal 30 missing
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
77-00 - Internal Supply Voltage
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-00 - No Communications
00862 - Antenna for GPS Navigation (R50/R52)
36-00 - Open Circuit
01462 - Anti-theft alarm ultra sonic Sensor (G209)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00774 - Level Control System Sensor; Rear Left (G76)
28-00 - Short to Plus
00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78)
28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1850 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ECU - Intermittent

David also pointed out these good and Bad points -

Good
1. No cam chain rattle on start up.
2. Bodywork and trim in good condition (except for bumper scuffs which are easy to address – dented panels would be a problem)
3. Refurbed front brake calipers
4. Non standard exhaust
5. 20” wheels
6. No water lying in scuttle
7. Pax footwell relay box is dry as are the floors ( Points 5 and 6 show that the various drains are not blocked)
8. F125 switch not indicating issues!!
Not so Good
1. Issues on scan
2. No evidence of cam chain tensioners being inspected/replaced)
3. No evidence of gearbox service
4. No evidence of thermostat / water pump /timing belt replacement

As I've said before I don't really have the time or money to finish the car off but I feel it is to good to break for parts. Any suggestions on the best place to sell the car or price range would be appreciated. The car is due me £2500 with the purchase of the car and work that has been completed up to now. If I could get my money back out of the car I would be happy.

Thanks again for all the help. You have all been super helpful.

Too Good to break!
 

Just for clarification, in my comment about body work and dented panels I was just pointing out that IF panels were dented (which I couldnt see any evidence of) then that would be a more serious issue. +++

So, while there are a bunch of fairly benign codes in that list, there are a few which are rather more challenging.

The ABS light is because of the return pump, which lives underneath the actual pump. Thats not a fun job and can often require hardlines replacing as the unions seize in place. It also needs VCDS to prime it. The pump itself can be had pretty cheap but its a 3-4 hour job to change it.

The headlight level sensors both need replacing - not terrible, and not expensive. The Febi sensor (which is the OE unit) is about £50.

I've never seen the knock sensor codes before. They imply a problem with the actual sensors, or possibly an ignition issue which is throwing them off. I'd need to look in to that in more detail.

The most concerning is the 'missing message' errors in both the cluster and TCU. Those mean there is a problem on the canbus somewhere. Its interesting that the ECU and ABS are not reporting the same issues, but the cluster is reporting it on both drivetrain and entertainment buses. That one could cause the car to shut down while driving, which is unpleasant, and could be a real stinker to track down. I've had a couple of these and its a case of get out the parts cannon and see which module stops the errors. It is often because of moisture ingress, especially when they have sat around for a long time.

Notwithstanding any of the usual mechanical issues like control arms, subframes, and power steering hoses, I'd think its probably a few week's work at mine to recommission it and get an MoT. In the order of £4K.

Given the bodywork and wheels are in good order I'd certainly not consider it a breaker. Its not necessarily economically viable to pay someone to do it at £2500 but it would be a good diy project for someone so inclined.

Just my 2p about knock sensors.
1. Old or poor fuel.
2. Carbon build-up in in combustion chamber due to historic use of poor fuel, mostly being driven short distances not getting up to temp or high oil consumption.
3. Knock sensors bolted down with wrong torque values or loose. Or something else loose on the engine vibrating away giving false knock reading.

My friends 3.7 was like that, sometimes showing error codes and in measuring blocks always showing high knock values and ignition timing retarded due to knock values. Car did not seem like cared before and he was always driving on cheapest Morrissons petrol. Put in VPower just for trying and values went down quite a bit. He could not be bothered and just went back to Morrissons fuel. Probably cost him more in increased fuel consumption due to ignition timing retardation than he saved in cost per liter.

Checking Elsawin, that knock sensor code does simply mean too much signal from the sensors, so either an electrical issue or the engine is actually knocking outside the bounds of what the ECU can handle.

I'm inclined to agree its probably old fuel if the car isn't getting used much. The S8, oddly, is much more tolerant to low octane fuel than you would expect. There's no discernible difference in mine using Tesco standard or momentum, although that may be because the engine only has 30K on it. I know Mike does see a difference in consumption on the good stuff. I mostly run mine on Tesco standard day-to-day and it doesn't knock at all. It only gets momentum for longer journeys. The 3.7 however absolutely hates cheap / low octane fuel because its mapped to burn as lean as it can for better economy. My original 3.7 would knock terribly if it had anything other than Vpower.

Thanks for the feedback. I guess next step is to list it in the for sale section and see if anyone is interested. Would love for it to go to someone who will get it back to tip top shape.