4.2 V8 Intake Linkage Arms
 

found these if anyone interested


http://gruvenparts.com/website/imgs/fullsize/187.jpg


Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms !


GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8.

Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself!

This is how we can warranty them for life!

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)

www.GruvenParts.com

Weirdly I was looking at these yesterday! co-incidence? I guess its a sign that I should order some...

I couldnt find anything about UK shipping?

Very nice...... would these be the same for the pre-facelift S8?

No mate. The 32v engine's intake manifold if totally different and has only one actuator and it's a different design. These don't break often either but the flimsy plastic ones on the 40v do - this is a nice mod. Please remember though that the actual fault is that the flaps sieze within the manifold, the extra load on the plastic rods is what breaks them, so replacing with stringer ones may well cause something else to break if you don't make sure the original fault is cured....

Thanks for the info Maestro (not the 80's car!) :)+++

It's $35 to the UK

Anyone got any pics of where these fit, either with these fitted or the stock mounts?

Not even taken the plastic cover off mine, so no idea of layout!

I know my car had a lot of little bits and pieces done last year to make sure it was all up together so I would expect the originals are alright on mine, at least for now.

Just remove the top manifold shroud and you will see their location at the front.

https://files.me.com/waynebailey/htp3np

Cool - thanks for that +++

Helps to know where to look!!

I think it was a 70's car! :)

It came out when I was first at university (OK, I'm old - but I don't think there's an age limit here).

Someone will probably come here with the real facts.

83 to 94 god help us!!! :D
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austin_Maestro
what the article doesnt explain of course is WHY????? :Confused: :ROFL:

Thanks Mkoneman!
I wish there was a off-the shelf solution when I fixed mine 2 years ago. I ended up using stainless ball joints, had to cut them and tap them. Audi dealer wanted £160 for new arms & bellows.

Ben, thanks for the heads-up about the flap itself seizing up. Hopefully I haven't damaged anything. Now I see Audi's logic behind using plastic arms.

I stand corrected! Must have been the Allegro that came out when I was first at University - easily confused; both hopeless cars!

Yes the Allegro was 73 to 83 and frankly was wayy worse even than the Meastro! I mean for feck's sake - whose idea was the square steering wheel on some of them :tuttut:

And the Austin Eggroll was more aerodynamic backwards than forwards FFS!

We had it labelled as the 'All Aggro'

My Dad had one, in a lovely shade of Mustard, with classy matching beige nylon interior, remember that nylon clothes were all the rage back then so the amount of static flying around meant I saved a fortune on perms!!

My warranty covers the whole unit with a £50 excess.

would i be better to get the unit replaced for £50 inc labour and new arms, or just buy the aftermarket arms?

and just making sure it covers D3's 4.2s

Just to add my 2p worth.

These things actually make a difference if not working ( if not working properly, they make the car a lot less powerful and it uses more fuel)- and they need to work even for low power settings.

My n/s one was stuck, but when fixed the car was noticably both more powerful and fuel efficient, especially at LOW power levels. ie in normal driving, once fixed, it needed less pedal for the same result.

Both bellows should collapse (and operate the things they're attached to) on startup.

My cars average fuel DIS was 23.1 mpg before I fixed it. Now it's 21.3.

It's done 30,000 miles since I last reset it, so it must be WAY more fuel efficient than it was.

my car has only one vacum thing,when i start the car it doesnt collapse yet when i rev it it will collapse for a second them go back.is that normal for a pf 4.2?

What? It uses more fuel now you've fixed them? ;)

Had I known I might have been tempted to leave mine broken instead of ordering those classy-looking Gruvenparts items...:rolleyes:

I was only in Atlanta a few weeks ago and could have bought a job lot back with me had I read this thread before I flew home! :D

Regards,
-=Glyn=-

I gotta ask the same:). I just hope the numbers are mixed?

Ahem.... that was a typo.

Now 23.3. Whoopie-Do!

I've done about 20,000 miles at '23.1', so for the miles since the repair to have built that average mpg up to '23.3' I reckon the car might be doing 24 mpg????

Who cares. It shows the car goes better (faster/ better mpg) with them working.

I love the S8, but them fill ups r hurtin!:)

bumpski

Having driven my "new" FL S8 a fair bit in the last few days I'm beginning to think it may have this problem.
It's nice and urgent at low speeds and low revs, but feels decidedly sluggish above 3000rpm compared to my PF model, which had twice the mileage.

Is it easy to get the relevant covers off to check - any photos I can be pointed at to see what's involved?

I found this pointing at the components to check, but no idea how to get to that view. http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2801728

OK, didn't realise how easy that is to do. :o
Just checked, all seems fine, links are secure and bellows move as they should with engine on and off. Didn't test at high revs though as it's drizzling.

Yep, dead easy when you know where to look lol - I'm guessing maybe cable vs drive by wire and number of valves make it feel quite different to drive?

its worth experimenting with the gearbox settings, it tends to respond quicker in "S" mode I think, also when in "D" you can change down using the wheel buttons or the stick which gives it instant pick up (good for over taking) and it drops back into "D" again when it thinks you have put your sensible head back on;)

Yes Brian & Adrian, I think you're right.
What with the different gearbox control, kickdown switch etc. it probably just needs getting used to.

I haven't checked the floor switch yet TBH but have already accidentally dropped a cog by catching a steering wheel button with the base of my thumb!
And the gear changes are quite "lazy" in Drive - it goes into 5th below 40mph and holds that as it slows - I've driven along for some distance with revs well below 1500 which I could never have done in the old car!

That suits me as there are a lot of slow roads around me where "pottering" is the only option.

I did use a bit of "extreme wellie" last night to quickly pass a group of cars crawling along at about 30 in a 50 limit and it behaved as expected. +++