A8 Parts Forum

A8 Parts Forum (https://forum.a8parts.co.uk/index.php)
-   D2 - Interior Electrics (https://forum.a8parts.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=25)
-   -   which upgrades would you suggest for a d2 prefacelift (https://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=3112)

RanjS8 10th June 2011 08:10 PM

which upgrades would you suggest for a d2 prefacelift
 
Hi guys

I m gona be pulling my dash to solve an air con problem.....

Before I do so....which upgrades would you suggest....currently I do not have double din sat nav....and mfsw.....these were just two that come mind....but what else would you guys suggest

IT 10th June 2011 09:34 PM

Pulling the dash out is easy peasy.

Its putting it back in thats the pain... :D

Sat Nav, MFSW are all do-able with dash in. In fact, you're better off having the dash in for those, or you'll end up running wires everywhere and wont be able to get the dash back in +++

The only upgrade that cannot be done without removing the dashboard is a heated front screen.... :rolleyes:

RanjS8 10th June 2011 09:51 PM

pulling dash
 
Your advice is duly noted Ian....funnily enough I do need a new windscreen lol....so could you tell me what would i need to fit the heated windscreen please....plus could you give me a basic step by step of pulling the dash....or just point me in the right direction....

IT 10th June 2011 10:00 PM

Just realised, you are preface - Was heated screen available PF... not sure it was...

In which case you're HVAC module wont support it.

Which is a shame, coz its a 'simple' fit.

You need a heated screen, and a heated screen control module which sits in the boot above the battery. Two wires from battery to module, and two wires from that to front screen. one wire from HVAC control unit to Windscreen unit and voila.

Dash out is a real pain. Steering wheel off, transmission tunner covers off, glovebox out, armrests off, center console out, radio out, HVAC unit out, speedo out, passenger airbag out.

You'll need to remove the front two seats so you can lie down on the floor flat for the next bit.

Next, you need to hunt for a whole load of really awkward Torx bolts that bolt the dashboard to the car from the underside going upwards. Getting them out is tough, getting them back in will be a real challenge.

I wouldnt do it. And I've done alsorts !

Singh 10th June 2011 10:10 PM

Ranj - Sell the S4, and the A8. Buy a 4.2 TDI A8, map it. Job done.

It will be quicker, more economical and more comfortable then both and you can't use both at the same time. Or buy a facelift D2 S8, no point wasting time upgrading the old PF A8 for the gearbox to go 1000 miles later. You know it makes sense. +++

darrenjoe90 11th June 2011 07:23 AM

I agree with amar about buying a face lift d2 S8 and i know just the one that already has a heated windscreen +++

daviesbike 23rd June 2011 09:12 PM

are you still selling your s8 !!!?? thought you were going to keep it now
? oh yea by the way my misses is wandering if melanie is coming to Gti with you ?

darrenjoe90 23rd June 2011 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daviesbike (Post 23897)
are you still selling your s8 !!!?? thought you were going to keep it now
? oh yea by the way my misses is wandering if melanie is coming to Gti with you ?

Yes the S8 is still for sale and will be at gti also mandy will be at with me +++ ( dont mention melanie :D )

tonupkid 23rd June 2011 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RanjA8 (Post 23020)
Hi guys

I m gona be pulling my dash to solve an air con problem.....

Before I do so....which upgrades would you suggest....currently I do not have double din sat nav....and mfsw.....these were just two that come mind....but what else would you guys suggest

Sell it and get a 4.2 D3. Prices are falling by the day, aou'll be amazed at how much better they are

notorious 19th May 2013 11:57 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by IT (Post 23023)
The only upgrade that cannot be done without removing the dashboard is a heated front screen.... :rolleyes:

Retrofitting heated windscreen with dash in place is no problem at all.

Heated windscreen comes with 4 wires. Two from top of the winscreen and two from bottom corners. Top two are connected to wires with +42v from transformer in the boot. Connecting them is easy since two top wires go directly into headlamp area.
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1368964363

There are two bottom wires in each corner. They go to ground connection of transformer in the boot.
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1368964363

Connecting them is even easier than top wires since when a-pillar trims are out there is a good niche there to arrange a connection. There is about square inch hole connecting that niche with footwell areas on right and left.
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1368964363

I think biggest challenge in windscreen retrofit is snaking wires to boot as this is rear seats out job.

ToreBj 17th September 2013 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notorious (Post 57552)
Top two are connected to wires with +42v from transformer in the boot. Connecting them is easy since two top wires go directly into headlamp area.

How did you route the wires to the headlamp area?

notorious 18th September 2013 12:38 AM

I routed them via A-pillar which you have to remove anyway to cut existing windscreen.This is not standard place for those wires.

The standard route is via B-billar and then behind headliner. There is special plastic thing where b-pillar meets headliner specifically designed for wires not to stand on the way of curtain airbag when it deploys. You will need to lower headliner a bit if you go this path and whole b-pillar trim should be out, which is rear seats out job. I think you'll need to do it anyway as you're routing wires to boot.

If you decide to go via a-pillar you'll have to route wires near airbag. Make sure you route wires in such a way that when airbag deploys it will not throw wire into passenger.

Make sure you purchase upper clips for a-pillar trim, which are designed to control airbag deployment. You'll most probably damage them when you remove a-pillar trim.

Did you ever remove a-pillar trim? Removing a-pillar trim deserves a separate article. It is very easy to damage a-pillar trim because of that idiotic airbag clip. A-pillar trim can 'crease' in the middle and that 'wrinkle' will always be right near your nose when you drive, always reminding about mistake.

If you find windscreen specialist who can cut windscreen without removing a-pillar trims and without damaging them / making them dirty I'd suggest going that path and route wires via b-pillar without completely removing a-pillar trim. Pay bonus premium to windscreen specialist. It'll be easier than finding good a-pillar trim without crease. They are only available from audi tradition shop not in all color combinations and cost about £150 each. Used ones are all damaged/creased as people don't know how to remove them properly.

Apologies if it sounds confusing.

steamship 26th September 2013 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notorious (Post 57552)
Connecting them is even easier than top wires since when a-pillar trims are out there is a good niche there to arrange a connection. There is about square inch hole connecting that niche with footwell areas on right and left.
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1368964363

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but I have a query about the plug in the picture. Having read the thread, I suspect I already know the answer :( but will ask anyway.

I noticed the ends of these plugs poking out of the bottom of the A pillars. I also have a spec list from the Erwin site which shows my car has (had) a heated windscreen (PDB). Since I can see these plugs, can I assume that the windscreen has been replaced at some point with a non-heated one?

notorious 26th September 2013 02:49 PM

This is very safe assumption to make :)

They removed heated windscreen replacing it with non-heated one.

I'd now remove windscreen surround frame and check quality of their work for corrosion in that cavity behind windscreen surround.

IT 26th September 2013 03:53 PM

Interesting, I missed this the first time round....

That heated screen has contacts at the bottom left and right edges - The screen I saw in the past had them in the middle at the bottom, central more like the upper ones. It is wiring to this location that would have been difficult, although probably could be done with the windscreen out maybe....

Nice job. +++

steamship 1st October 2013 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notorious (Post 62204)
This is very safe assumption to make :)

They removed heated windscreen replacing it with non-heated one.

I'd now remove windscreen surround frame and check quality of their work for corrosion in that cavity behind windscreen surround.

Was a bit annoyed to say the least that this might have happened, but finally managed to do some work on the car as one of the fuses kept blowing. With screwdriver in hand, I decided to check all the windscreen contacts, and things may be looking up. Removed the courtesy lights to reveal this:

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/picture.p...&pictureid=465

There is another one hidden over to the right. I then had a 'really' good look at the lower contacts that were peeking up. To my surprise, they appear to be connected. I just have to wait until the temperature drops to see if it all works.

Note the black goo on the trim. This is what was holding the lights in place, as the front retaining clips had been snapped off previously.

notorious 1st October 2013 07:03 PM

I doubt that is was messy windscreen connection that caused fuses to blow. Connection look good for me and 'foil' is not damaged. When I arranged wires in that area I used 3M VHB (very high bond) sticky tape to attach those connection to headliner from inner side so that they don't make mess in the area. I also watched that there plenty of 'foil' length left, so foil never get stretched.

Broken clips of interior light assembly is a separate problem. It is easy to get that light used and transplant.

To test windscreen just remove two wires which go windscreen direction from the monster windscreen ECU in the boot and test resistance with multimeter. Resistance should be from 2 to 3 Ohms.


All times are GMT. The time now is 08:45 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.