D2 Jack
 

Just discovered that the LHD 3.3 V8 TDI that we are currently breaking has an 'extra heavy duty' Aluminium Jack that was shared with the D2 W12 - looks a lot more robust than the regular one (thankfully!)

Is the jack for sale? PM me with a price please

You can't possibly be serious after all you have said about the fuel of the devil :p lol

It's OK, I'm pretty sure that the jack isn't diesel powered! :)

We have listed it at £30. It looks more robust and is straight like the A6 jacks, whereas the D2 standard jack is a bit banana shaped.

It is rated to 1100 KG which is 100KG more than the regular one.

Interestingly there is another version for the armoured car (list price new £428) It must come with an armed guard to protect the VIP while he changes his wheel!


http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1337154003

I'llhave it at £30 if that includes postege.

BTW - the armoured car version will be bullet proof of course! :)

Something else that it is worth upgrading while your at it Jim is the RS6 breaker bar to loosen the wheel nuts. It spins out and extends to give you more torque. I was having a real problem getting a nut out, then noticed it extended and it was out in a jiffy.

Hang on a minute.

So, they over engineer a jack at rediculous cost, to lift a 3 tonne car in the event that it, what, gets a puncture ? This is the armoured version. Its supposed to withstand gunfire, explosions, and most parts of Newcastle on a Friday night

I would imagine they're toughened and run flats at least ? Surely. They have to be ?

For what possible reason could you ever need to pull up your armoured 6 figure executive bomb proof limo, get out, and crawl around in your designer gear fannying around changing wheels over.... ?

Does it come with an armoured wheel brace too incase the regular one comes under fire during the wheel change?

How about the crappy plastic wheel change alignment tool.... That puppy's gonna struggle. They barely withstand atmospheric pressure.

Surely to god, you'd have AA membership at least. Let them change it. :ROFL:

But the RS6 comes with no spare wheel, a compressor, a can of squirty stuff and the big ass battery where the spare should be...

So Audi give you the better tools to remove your wheel, when they dont give you a spare wheel to put on... lol

Yep, keep meaning to buy a spare for longer journeys.

That jack has a different type lifting point too as it looks more like a standard jack, one that the sill would sit in, it doesn’t look like it’ll locate in the lifting points of the D2. Is it deffo a D2 type or has someone replaced the shockingly ****e one that bent the first time it was used with something from another Audi?

I put one of these in the boot too Amar but mine came out of a Toyota i think, very handy to have as i found out. Unfortunately i found out the hard way and acquired the breaker bar after I was caught out. I have however insisted when I have had tyres changed that they leave the wheel nuts just nipped up and I do them up myself in the forecourt with the stock (short) wheel brace in the boot. 2 reasons for this 1, it’s all you got to undo the wheel bolts if you have a puncture. 2, most tyre fitters don’t use a torque wrench properly.

The pressure you can exert on the wheel brace is dependent on

(a) length of the bar and position on the bar force is applied
(b) amount of rotational force applied

Thankfully, the lord made me rather large and heavy, and it seems that in this rare case, my bulk wins over you skinny minnies as standing on any breaker bar has always got my nuts undone...

(oo-er)

:D

Although as I have discovered, with a long bar for greater leverage it is very easy to turn slightly off centre and the 'key' for the locking nuts slips and burrs the nut. Happily I got it off and back on again, but needed a new set of locking nuts. [oo-er +1]

Yeah locking nuts are only done up just over hand tight on my 8.

If you need to stand on the nuts to get them off... then you have seriously over-tighten them:tuttut:

I am tightning mine at 120 newton meter and use cobber-grease on them(so they do not rust together in there...

More than 120 nm could damage your alloys I believe(if you stand on it with the weight of 100 kg... I would assume you go between 200 and 300 nm of tight'ning torque)

Just my 2 cent:)

/Jake

Just to get technical I think the torque setting for the wheel BOLTS will be an ungreased value, as this is how it would have left the factory. Greased bolts should require less torque, as the tightening of a stud is basically tension, so as it comes tight the bolt stretches and it is this that holds it tight. Lubricated this stretching happens sooner than dry and as such the torque value decreased.

But in the real world it wouldn't make much difference on a wheel stud and nut or wheel bolt. And wheel nuts / bolts should be checked weekly.