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Stripping Doors
Hi there,
Any ideas on how to strip down a door...Basicaly i want to get at and remove / change the speakers....A pic or description of how to do it without mangling bits would be nice ! Its a 2000 S8....speakers sizes would be useful too ! Thanks, Lee |
Sorry I can't answer your question, but do you have Bose speakers in your '8? If so what are you replacing them with?
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Second the motion.. the door speakers on these are pretty good enclosures already - so would be interested to know whats going in there!
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Have a look here for door trim removal instructions http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl.../doortrim.html
I'd be interested to know what's going in too +++ |
Hi There,
I have a pair of Mcintosh component speakers, Mss-470. MSS470 Component 2-way system 5-1/4" woofers with LD/HP design, mineral filled polypropylene cones, and butyl rubber surrounds. High temperature Kapton voice coil formers. Ultra high temperature adhesives. 1" aluminum dome tweeters with magnetic fluid cooling and Neodymium magnets. Enclosed 2-way passive crossover networks. Response 60 to 22kHz. Output level 87dB/1w/1m. Power rating 100w. They are nice and were a hug improvement over the speakers in my BMW 316 and its not worth leaving them in there when i sell it, so i may as well play. I also have a pair of Kenwood kfc-1789ie that i picked up a while back, but am unsure if these will be any better than the bose in there. I'm after quality of sound rather than boom box bass here. |
1 Attachment(s)
Not sure if you've taken the door apart already, but if not heres a photo of what to expect from a front door speaker.
They are quite a custom shape, with the base box following the line of the door backwards. Note, these speakers produce all the base in the car. The parcel shelf ones do not, so if you put some less bassy speakers in the doors, it may well all sound a bit flat..... |
Hi Ian,
Nope. Need to remove the speakers from my old BMW yet....An interesting speaker design there...seems to be a ported tube, as such changing the driver will do wierd things as the size /length of the tube port will be different and would probably need tuning....even if i got the speaker to fit. More complications then....I'm not doing very well here, am i :ROFL: I'd have said the car was a little light in the bass area to start with, and i already know the McIntosh are tweeter and mid range (60hz claimed, but i'd say down pas 200hz an they'll struggle). I do wonder about using the crossover and tweeter though as i guess they just use a cap for that on the boss....also the tweeter will be much better. How many spekers are in the car....are there some in the frames behind the seats ??? Lee |
Hi Lee,
From what I've seen looking around, there are the two large full-range speakers on the back shelf, then one full range in each rear door and an enclosed tuned bass/midrange and seperate tweeter in each front door. I'll see if I can find a diagram.. Meanwhile, this thread has some good information http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/audi-...-speakers.html |
http://www.bose.co.uk/GB/Images/Audi..._tcm6-6242.pdf
Speakers and their sizes - straight from the Bose site +++ |
Hi There,
Thanks for that. They seem interesting sizes. I also found on ebay a pic of them all removed : http://i20.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/f6/7a/56ba_1.JPG Which seems to confirm what bose say. Looks like the 5 1/4" one are fairly useless, unless i created a adaptor plate and used them in the back, but that would reduce the bass output and god knows how you'd cross them over. Still the option of using the tweeter in the front i guess....same not to use the set. So DJ - What did you end up doing, or haven't you ??? |
I haven't yet - I'm still evaluating my gearbox expenses...
I was thinking of leaving the factory kit as-is, but building around it with some door builds and a boot box. Alternatively I could leave the rear shelf speakers alone & still wired in for the OE equipment to function, but use aftermarket replacements for the doors amped up completely seperate and the boot box. The boot box is another problem all together though as I have a sealed box that has worked well in the past and I'm wary of trying to rebuild it for the 8's boot. The box I have is quite small, it's a 12" driver so I wouldn't lose too much space in the boot, but getting the bass through is still a problem (especially from a sealed box). I'm still not sure - I like the idea of leaving as much of the OE stuff alone so when it comes to selling time, I can just take my stuff out and it goes to the new owner in full working order with the original kit (has always worked on past cars - much better looking un-molested than holes and wires everywhere). The beauty of the 8 is the battery in the boot, makes things a bit easier in some respects. For me it's time needed to solve these issues which I haven't got at the moment, but things will be changing soon, and that's what's holding me back - if my plans go accordingly, I may yet have to let go of the 8 and take a cheaper motor (one without the expensive gearbox problems :( ) |
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