Rear discs and pads with jack / axle stands
 

Hi

Came to do my rear discs and pads yesterday, but I guess like most DIY'ers , I only have axle stands and a trolley jack.
I abandoned the job as I could not see anyway to get my stand in once the car was jacked up.
Job itself looks simple enough on outer inspection.
Has anyone else done this job sucessfully on stands/jack please?

***oops*** this has gone in the D3 section - should be in the D2 section. I have a 98 S8 D2.

I prefer to use different length logs instead of axle stands

Did the rear discs and pads a few months ago using the the car jack (but i I got a heavy duty jack to replace the standard one which collapsed when under load last year). I am not too sure whether the jack dimensions are the same but it is a struggle to get axle stands in under the jacking pads whilst using the jack on the side supports intended for the jack. I have two pairs of stands and one is slightly shorter than the other so, with a bit a squeeze, managed to place the shorter ones in the right place.

Thanks for the reply. I could not get enough of the stand on the sill without risking damage or worse the car coming off the jack.

I usually just use the trolley jack and put the wheel under the sill just in case when doing brakes, never usually in there that long.

Thanks, going to have another go this weekend, using the OEM jack / stand and spare wheel in place, just in case.

I would strongly recommend that you get something else in there in contact with the jacking pad - and not just the wheel to save it if it falls. It happened to me once when working on the front. The OEM jack is poor - especially when fully extended. It just doesnt like sideways forces at all and when removing the calipers you may need to apply some force in removing the caliper bolts. (One of my rear calipers came off really easy and the other didnt!)

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthrea...ght=jack+death

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The only use I have found for the OEM jack is to slightly raise the car so that a proper (e.g. trolley) jack can be slid underneath to then lift using the pads.

Agree. Its a roadside tool when absolutely necessary but it does require - even then - to be on absolutely level ground. There are OEM jacks available for the "armoured " and the heavier diesel versions of the car. I have now got one of the latter courtesy of the forum sponsor. +++

Looking at the other thread about jacks it had these part numbers.
4D0 011 021B Armoured.
4D0 011 031F Bigger engine.

And two others depending on chassis number
4D0 011 031D
4D0 011 031C
for different jacks.

David, what's the difference between the normal jack and the heavier duty ones?
Any pics?

I've got an 'armoured' jack as well as a standard one, so I'll photograph them at the weekend if David doesn't beat me to it.

For security at home, I use the trolley jack, axle stands and a bald spare tyre (probably free form any tyre garage). This is better than the spare wheel as there's no rim to mark or wheel rim to mark the car if things do collapse, and the side wall is stiff enough to support one corner of the car.

Was just looking at that thread again too. Adrian E posted:

"Looking on ETKA there are 4 part numbers for jacks, depending on year and spec, as follows:

Up to chassis number 4D-x-005 950 is 4D0 011 031C

From 4D-x-005 951 is 4D0 011 031D

There are then 2 alternatives for the heavier cars. Jack listed for the 3.3 diesel and 6.0 W12 is 4D0 011 031F

Jack for armoured model is 4D0 011 021B.

The 3.3 diesel/W12 jack (4D0 011 031F) i have got is straighter and just heavier gauge metal. Unfortunately I havent got any shots of the (unbent) standard jack but I will post some of the 031F asap.

Tell me about it David! Last Saturday I was changing a burst tyre on the hard shoulder of the M1 with myself squashed against the barrier (it was a narrow hard shoulder by the way, I'm not THAT fat ;)) and I slackened the bolts, raised the car, had second thoughts and lowered it, then repositioned the jack and raised it again! I wanted the wheel off and the spare fitted in the quickest possible time and then get out of there. I've had two Audi OEM jacks "fall over" on me on relatively level ground so know the danger of using them in less than perfect conditions, this time I had no option but to go for it and thankfully it went well +++

I wouldn't use the factory jack for working on the car. I've used it when I got a flat and even though mine is the heftier D3 one, it's still completely unsuitable for actual work on the car. You can get a decent trolley jack from Halfrauds or ECP for under 30 quid usually.

Us D3 owners can just pop the car into lift, then jacking mode to get the jack under :)

Not the D3 owners that lowered their cars :(

I use the boot jack or jack the car up, soon as its up high enough to fit a axle stand under that goes in and I carry on jacking to the required height.

I would never recommend using the window maker jack. Road side if its desperate but that's it.

Here's pictures of the 031F version for diesel/W12 D2s. I consigned my standard jack to the bin so you'll have to wait for The Laird to post piccies of one of those.

I also did this job with a trolley jack. Also found it annoying I could not fit a stand under the car when jacked up.
Hopefully you can re-wind the caliper easily, one of mine was stuck because it came out too much (pad worn to metal) so it turned out into a bit of a nightmare having to replace the rear caliper.

I don't recall how I got to this point, but it can definitely be done :)

Attachment 8762

Here are my 2 jacks. You can clearly see that the 'heavy duty' jack is more 'chunky'. Mine is part number 4D0 011 031F

Thanks again for all the replies. +++
I sized up the brake job again and given my driveway is on a slight incline, I bottled it and will get my local mechanic to do it, which will cost about £50, assuming they are not seized.
The rear discs are going but not unsafe. Agreed, the factory jack looks underspec'd
Shame because I bought a rewind tool and so on when I had my modded Skoda.

All was not lost though, thanks to the handy guides on the forum, I'll post up the sucesses in my intro post here =>
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8560

Thread hijack alert.
Has anyone any advice if it's possible to get stands in and where?
I jacked the car over the weekend but had to have it half in/out of workshop so I could position the jacking pad over the dip at the doorway. I simply lifted it using the trolley jack, is there a good spot to put axle stands (be kind I've just bought the A8) has anyone managed to get a low profile trolley jack that will go low enough to slide in? My current one is milimetres away from being usable, I'm considering simply carressing it with the angle grinder (the trolley jack not the car :eek: )

I've always found the easiest method with any lowish car is to drive it up on to a couple of planks of wood, that usually lifts it enough to get a trolley jack underneath

As I think I've mentioned in another thread, I use the standard jack to lift the car an inch or two then slide the trolley under. They use different locations so it's no problem. +++

Don't use the sill to jack off as it'll just fold in. I've always put the boot jack at the rear jacking point wound it up a touch so you can get you trolley jack under the front jacking point, pump your jack up so you can fit the axlestand under the subframe.

Where do you use for the trolley jack just out of interest?

Where? As rarely as possible and only when I can't quickly get a professional to do the job.

If you mean where on the car, there are pads for lifts etc. as specified in the drivers manual, fairly close to the OEM jacking points.

So there are 8 lift points on FL? As far as i'm aware there are only 4 on the PF and the standard jack fits into these.

No i must have meant where on the planet, why would you assume i meant where on the car? Just because the whole thread is about where to jack and support an 8?

:ROFL:

I thought PF and FL were the same underneath as the body shell wasn't changed. But my PF is long gone.
My FL manual clearly illustrates four ridge-like jacking points (A) for the vehicle jack and another (larger, square) four (B) for workshop lifting platforms.

The best solutions are always the easiest, cheers for that Sarg. I am better prepared for next time.+++

The cheapo Machine mart one will fit under a S8, the cheapest one (red), I think it was something like £25.
Sarg's idea is best, drive onto planks or similar.