4 beeps from the alarm sounder when switching ignition on?
 

Anybody know what that's supposed to tell us? I'm assuming it's either the alarm module batteries dying, or the main battery. Car started fine and didn't do it again when restarted.

Car's gone off for gearbox oil change so my mate will read any stored faults while monitoring the gearbox oil temp, just wondered if anyone knew what the likely answer would be!

Yes, I'm pretty sure that's your alarm batteries on their death bed!

Yeah, did a bit of reading around after this and looks like the most likely cause - new module to order then! Etka says it needs to be workshop modified, but it's not clear if that's because the bracket on the new alarm module doesn't fit the thread or some other reason. It seems to suggest there's 2 bolts, but Elsawin only talks about 1.....

Just hope TPS will take my unneeded tail shaft back for a refund so I can afford to buy a new module instead!!

There's only one bolt on the alarm siren (which is where the batteries are housed). I think A8 Parts have one just now - the later design, but you'll need to check the state of the electrical plug connector too and perhaps get one of those from A8 Parts too.

If not, there's another thread on here with the newer part number and you'll probably find one on ebay. I've done it 3 times now, so give me a shout if you get stuck.

Edit: Part number for the newer siren is 8L0 951 605A

Edit 2: And there's one on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...+605A&_sacat=0

Hiya

Have ordered a new one from TPS - unfortunately all has not gone well on the dismantling front! Followed the guide posted on here and I've accessed the alarm module OK

Is there a way to completely remove the side trim on the boot? Mine seems very reluctant to part company up by the back seat and ideally I'd like it completely off so I can improve access.

Got the old module out, but when I unplugged it the male part of the plug has fallen to pieces around the plastic 3rd pin. I can see that one of the contact pins is corroded, so I'm assuming acid has eaten away at the plastic :(

I know you can order a replacement plug, but I have no idea how many pieces it comes in and if it's even possible to disassemble it in situ and replace the plastic part?

It's my birthday tomorrow and being upside down in the boot trying to get to the wretched thing is not how I planned to spend the day :(

I had the 4 beeps around 2 months ago. Oh well, alarm must be dead now.
I guess I'll have to tackle this too if for no other reason to remove the old batteries so they don't leak.

Happy Birthday Adrian :D

Cheers Goran :)

I was quite surprised, given I've gone straight in there the 1st day I've heard the beeps, at how bad it already is. When I get a chance I'll chop the old one open to see what it's like inside but for now I just need to sort it so I can put the car back together to use on Sunday!

Hopefully the 3 pin connector will be in stock at TPS - looking online it appears possible to dismantle it fairly easily. I may try my old loom in the shed and see if I can find one to practice removing the pins on before I dive into the very short reach section in the boot I need to get to!

Adrian, you can put everything back together without the alarm horn/siren in place, car still locks etc OK, just wont sound the alarm if its broken into, mine is currently without a horn/siren and its fine+++


ETA Happy Birthday for tomorrow:D

This is the state externally of my alarm module and the wrecked plug

Looked online and it appears the plastic part of the case can be dismantled, so if I can grab one from TPS this morning I should be able to clean up the contact with spray cleaner, assuming I can get it out with the barbs intact!

I'm usually OK at doing stuff like this, but the limited access will certainly make it interesting....

Mine and Brian's were both like that. I managed to repair mine, but Brian's started to go off in the middle of the night. I got a couple of plugs and a longer length of wire from A8 Parts, so I plan to cut off the old plug and 'scotchlock' the new one on. I really doubt if there's room to fit a new plug and I haven't tried to get the side panel off.

Well that hasn't gone according to plan! Had a go at removing the pins from the old plug - 1 came out fine, but the other 2 snapped :( 1 was heavily corroded anyway.

I think my best option will be to pop it down to my local indy and get them to put 2 new pins on so I can reassemble the plug.

For now I've just wrapped them in insulating tape and left them dangling, with 1 wire fitted in the new plug.

I think the pins are crimped rather than soldered, so as long as they don't have to trim anything much off the wiring in situ it ought to be possible to do it with the aid of a helper to take the strain on the wire and stop it disappearing!

Cut the case open on the old module, just to see what state it was in and this is what I found - basically 1 leaking cell has done a fair bit of damage for a relatively small leak. Cell seems to have swelled as well.

I'm going to change the alarm module preventively soon and will use the new module with "8L0 951 605 A" part number. Does anyone have experience fitting this new module as it seem to have a bit different geometry?

Yes, I've fitted 2 or 3 of these. There are plenty of pre-drilled holes in that area and the new style siren fits easily, although not necessarily in exactly the same position as the old one

Agreed, a choice of holes. As noted in another thread I managed to repair mine recently (got there just in time) but couldn't easily get it back in exactly the original location and orientation so bolted it using a more accessible orifice in the same area.

As noted in that thread I used the "recommended" Maplin batteries and with a little light butchery of the plastic battery holder (they are a tiny bit bigger) they were a straight plug and play swap with no soldering required. Still working fine. +++

Based on experiences reported on this forum I'd say that at the VERY FIRST HINT of a problem with the alarm horn - whip it out and open it up. :ROFL:

Thanks guys. I removed mine and fixed it. It did't leak well enough to damage the board seriously. I will now need to buy batteries and a laquer to spray on board to brotect it again, which I washed with white spirit to remove the leakage, which damaged original laquer. I'm going to drive without batteries. I'm thinking to extend wires out of the siren and have battery in another place which is easier to control. +++ It will also give me a bigger choice of shapes and sizes of NiMh batteries.

Just because I went in that area I also changed the Central locking pump motor.

Well half an hour's labour and 3 repair wires later my new module is now connected! Garage replaced all 3 as it also then gives a bit of extra cable to work with for mounting the box, plus the one wire I'd managed to remove intact was tarnished anyway.

Now off to put all the trim back and see if I can figure out how to code the alarm lock/unlock noises so I feel like I'm getting vfm from the cost of a new module lol

Is it guided through basic settings in VCDS or online somewhere how to change the coding? Couldn't find anything on ross-tech wiki

Adrian, lots of info online on how to code it via VCDS, but it's not 100% consistent.
I tried to work out what all the bits really mean and "thought" I'd posted it up here somewhere - have a search for alarm coding post by me. ;)
I did identify them all, but don't know what some mean and others don't seem to function "as advertised" either. :Confused:

If you can't find it I'll look for the coding data document - must be on one of my PC's somewhere....

Hiya

Cheers - managed to find a link to 'Audi Base Code Decoder' which on entering my existing coding of 15179 under Channel 35 correctly tells me it's got the window up/down activated via the remote.

Have left auto locking and 1 door unlocking deactivated and have selected alarm beep on locking and it's generated code 16203

Will see how that compares to the auto generated help options within VCDS when I plug the laptop in - assuming it ever stops raining, of course!

Found it. This what my decode list looks like, though I don't know what they all mean....:

For Central Locking (35):

+00001 - Rear Lid Opening via Rear Lid Lock
+00002 - Anti-Theft Confirmation via Blink
+00004 - Selective Locking
+00008 - Anti-Theft-System
+00016 - Reverse Lock And Unlock Functions On Remote
+00032 - Locking via Speed (15mph)
+00064 - Comfort Closing via Remote Control
+00128 - Turn Off Continuous Blinking Of Alarm LED When Anti-Theft Armed
+00256 - Rear Lid Logic
+00512 - Remote Control "Close" Confirmation (1x Blink)
+01024 - Confirmation Anti-Theft Warning System Horn Activation
+02048 - Door/Window Logic (USA)
+04096 - Remote Control "Open" Confirmation (2x Blink)
+08192 - Remote Control


Adrian, your 15179 is 1+2+8+256+512+2048+4096+8192 and adding 1024 (confirmation beep) gives 16203.
To activate locking by speed add another 32 = 16235.

That looks just like the list that shows in VCDS when you go into module 35 - although that doesn't mention the +1024 that you need for the confirmation beep! Did you find a beep for unlocking?

If comfort closing is the ability to open and close the windows and sunroof then that's active on mine, but not sure how that coding would work?

Anyway what I wanted to achieve is working, so it's all good :) beep on unlock would be nice to have but I'm not that worried if it can't be done

Beep on unlock isn't an option. Well not on a D2.