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Clonk with coming to a halt.
Being Scottish, I sometimes pop the thing into neutral when I know I'm going to have to stop soon.
I know it'll use zero fuel if I leave it in drive, but I like seeing a high number on the 'instant fuel consumption':) (for a bleedin change). Anyway, if I do indeed come to a halt, there is a fair old thump from under the car in the region of the axle. Only happens on my 'low cost' slowdowns. If I leave it in drive, no clunk. Must be a bush away but which one?:Confused: |
Drive in 'Tip' and use engine braking by down-shifting and you'll see those low consumption figures and your brake poads will last longer! Call yourself a Scotsman. Yorkshiremen are far more fiscally savvy!!!
The clunk is probably the torque converter unlocking. |
I always avoid freewheeling or using tip for engine braking as it doesn't seem good for our already weak boxes.
However this is only my second auto so I'm not that familiar with the do's and donts. |
i thought free wheeling in autos was a no no......like towing them for any distance is too?
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yorkshiremen tight ? where do you get that idea mike :rolleyes:
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Maybe when you stayed up the other night :D
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You shouldn't ever let your auto' car run in Neutral. At this point the engine's speed drops to idle and the internal oil pressure in the 'box is minimal so wear can be dramatically accelarated!
Using 'tip to slow is, in my opinion, good and I use this in autos. It keeps oil pressure high and when the engine is in over-run mode (i.e no throttle and slowing down) it turn the injectors off entirely and so consumes no fuel, whereas at idle the engine is actually consuming fuel, not much but more than nothing! |
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Well, thanks for the hints and tips re coasting. Mebbes I'd better stop doing it.
About the clunk, though??:Confused::) |
In general I was always told that brake pads were much cheaper than a transmission chain, so "engine to go and brakes to slow"
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