Where to start...

[Mr K]

The weather is warming up, and in may i should have a few spare days and evenings to get scrubbing; but where do i start?

I obviously need to master washing it, thats the first job, but at some point she will need a machine polish, as there are a lot of swirl marks. is this something i can DIY, with just guides on the net, or do i need to attend a course, or leave it to the pro's? Seems pretty scary going near my beloved S8 with machine polisher...

your opinions please...

[Conan_the_Librarian]

Here's a link to my first attempt write up. Hope it helps.

[Singh]

With something like a Meguairs G220 & using a soft pad combo, you won't ruin your paint.

Wash method is simple really, sheepskin wash mitt and a microfibre/watermagnet thingi majigi to dry. Don't use a blade. If you want to be really careful use two buckets with grit guards. Don't use a sponge or a chammy. A good shampoo to use is Duragloss 901.

The guides on detailing world are a good start, I would, well did buy a G220 with the Menz kit a year ago. Have been practising and getting better at it. A set of halogens is good so you can see the swirls better. You can get some from screwfix, get 500W +

My method would be.

Wash
Clay
Wash
Correct
Protect

[Mr K]

Cheers guys! both very useful posts!

Having had a look around, it looks like i need to master washing it first, otherwise machine polishing will be a waste of time.

So, my plan is to get some new clean buckets, some shampoo, a washmitt, and a means of drying it. oh, and obviously a clean dry tub to store all my new 'sterile' car wash stuff in.

On to a few questions;
1. Am i missing anything? or will that lot allow me to successfully wash the outside of my '8, anything else worth adding to that list? or recomendations on the products. will look for 'Duragloss 901' shampoo.
2. which 'microfibre/watermagnet thingi majigi' is best? with microfibre towels i assume i should get a few?
3. can it be done in stages, i.e. could i wash, clay, wash one day, then a few weeks later wash, pc, wash. is it important to be done one after another?
4. whats the best chemical for shifting those stuborn buts in door shuts and filler cap areas? dont want to be rubbing a washmitt around in there!

thanks for the advice so far! im sure theese wont be my last questions...

[Conan_the_Librarian]

1. A pressure washer or powerful hose to loosed and wash off the worst of the much.
2. The best drying towel IMHO is this one. Get 2. Lotsa microfibres and look after them. Wash in non bio detergent or soap powder and don't use softer on your drying towels.
3. If it's going to live indoors between processes then ok. However, once clayed you need to get a protective layer on quick as containments will start to attack the paint. I power polish my cars twice a year and give myself a full day and a half to do it (or g3t a pro to do it ).
4. Get some Meguires GP detergents in a pressure spray bottle and a paint brush. Rinse with lotsa clean water. I even used a steam stripper once without the plate on the end. Worked a treat.

[Mr K]

thanks Conan, got a hose and a pressure washer so no problems there.

Ordering some washing kit tonight, that will get me started, and heading in the right direction.

Another question; paint thickness - everyone seems to check it first? is this vital? or really risky if i dont? they tool is £199; which is too much for me!

Do places do courses on car care / detailing? Im pretty tempted.

[Mr K]

A quick thought, can i get out swirl marks by hand? or will it take ageeesss?

i.e. is there any value in wash>clay>wash>hand polish>wax? or is it pointless compared to getting a machine on it.

[Conan_the_Librarian]

Mr K,

Have you worked your way through the tutorials in the sticky here. Lotsa good advice there. VAG paint is notoriously hard and hand polishing is only for the terminally bored!
The use of a PDG is not necessary if you are careful.
I don't know anyone that does a training day for amateurs, sorry.

if you look on detailing world there is a guy who does 1 day courses in machine polishing

on the other hand I bought a scrap A8 wing to practice on with mine.

[Singh]

Mr. K I don't have a paint depth gauge either, the best way around this is not to use anything too harsh, you will be fine this way and shouldn't take of too much clear coat. Always use the least harshest pad/polish combo to get the work done. Then keep checking to how effective it is (using halogens) if it isn't working well then go up a polish.

There are two different products that you would use for paintwork correction. Cutting compounds are mainly for scratches or major paint defects, you then have polishes which also vary in abrasiveness from medium to light. You will also find Cutting and compounding/polishing pads. Always use the least harsh combination to get the job done, that way you don't remove to much clear coat.

If you don't want to keep at your paintwork with your machine then once you have corrected most of the swirls you can use a glaze to fill in the rest of them but the glaze, depending on which one you use won't be a permanent solution. You would probably have to reapply after 3/4 months I suppose it would all depend on what sealant/wax you use.