How to lubricate a folding mirror that is getting seized up.

[HPsauce]

My PF S8 passenger side folding mirror was getting more and more erratic, sometimes it was OK other times it needed a little "push". This was in either direction, but more opening than folding.
So I acquired a replacement from A8parts, but didn't get round to fitting it for a very long time. And when I did the replacement had similar symptoms, though more consistent.

As I didn't intend using the car for a while and had the door half-dismantled to get at the wiring I decided to try a few things out.

The answer turned out to be remarkably simple - lubrication.
Simple, but NOT easy.

Having tackled this the "difficult way" and learned from the experience, here is my summary of how to do it. If your folding mirrors are getting rather "sticky" it's well worth a try.

I now have a perfectly-functioning mirror (the original) plus a perfectly-working spare mechanism. Some may say that was a waste of money, but if I hadn't bought it I never would have investigated and solved the problem.

Details and pictures to follow.....

[HPsauce]

Here is a summary of the procedure. I did a lot more than this and you may need to as well, depending on the state of your mirrors, doors and wiring.

1. Fold mirror, remove small phillips screw that is exposed in a recess in the end of the non-swivelling section (it helps hold the plastic trim in place)

2. Open mirror, remove plastic panel on bottom (2 screws) and then take off the glass (I used a plastic ice scraper to lever it).

3. Lower window. Remove the mirror cover - take out 3 (T10 or phillips) screws visible around mirror glass mount then wiggle it off.

4. Remove interior triangular trim to expose mirror mounting bolt, the trim is held by just one central push-fit clip and pulls off straight inwards but may need easing round/over the top of the main door trim.

5. Undo and remove bolt and washers from inside - mine required a T45 Torx drive.

6. Work mirror free of rubber seals and peel away foam pad to expose 2 screws on the back of the long edge of the triangular metal mounting plate.
You may need to disconnect the electrical connector to the base of the unit depending on the amount of slack in the cables.

If you have mirror memory there will be a secondary cable that goes through the door mounting and down behind the main door trim panel. If that has insufficient slack the panel will have to come off and the cable freed or disconnected, but try to avoid that if possible. (see note below, it doesn't have to come totally off)
(If your mirror remains attached to the car don't forget to protect the paint with a cloth or towel.)

7. Undo the two remaining screws that hold the exterior plastic trim onto the metal mounting plate. The 3rd screw outside near the pivot was removed in step 1.

8. Loosen the trim and manipulate it round (you can't take it off) until you can see the bottom of the main pivot. Turn the mirror unit so that it is upside down with the pivot (possibly only partially) on view.

9. Liberally lubricate the pivot around the edges of the metal rings with WD40 3-in-1 oil etc. ensuring plenty runs through to the inside of the inaccessible gear mechanism. Don't pour oil down the centre hole where the cables run, that will not go anywhere useful.
(make sure you have paper towels or similar to catch any drips)

10. If you can connect the main electrical connector, preferably while still inverted, "exercise" the pivot by folding and unfolding electrically. Initially a little manual assistance may be required so someone to operate the "fold" switch on the drivers door is useful while you support and "encourage" the two parts of the mirror unit. You may find it best to have the engine running as the voltages will be a bit higher to the "fold" motor.
(don't forget to put the plastic cover back roughly in it's rightful place first or it will block the movement)

11. Alternatively remove the unit completely and "exercise" it with a suitable 12v (or slightly higher, 14v or 15v) DC supply. The relevant pins are numbered 8 and 9 on the main connector. One polarity will open and the reverse will close.

After sufficient "exercise" the lubricant should have softened the grease and dirt blocking the gear mechanism and it hopefully will run smoothly in both directions. When you're happy reassemble in the reverse of the above sequence. Exercise it a bit more once fitted to ensure it's all OK.

Note. If you do need to remove the door card to disconnect the long secondary cable (for memory) you may get away with only doing it partially; I did.
The cable (on mine anyway) runs down the front edge of the door and the connector is not too far inside but near the bottom.
I managed to get at it without having to lift the card over the locking button or unclip the rear edge, doing the following:
Remove decorative trim (it levers out gently starting at one end) and 2 of the 3 screws behind - you can leave the rearmost one in place.
Release rubber trim and remove screw below (if present) at top front corner.
Remove handgrip trim and 2 screws behind it. (You might just get away without doing this)
Pop clips open along front edge and along bottom as far as necessary to gain access.
Small hands definitely help!

[HPsauce]

Relevant photos to follow here, soon I hope.....

[Architex_mA8tey]

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Relevant photos to follow here, soon I hope.....

great write up - would be useful if you could attach photos by the relevant stage on the write up and then we can make it a useful sticky for others to use - or upload photos and I can embed them in the right places if they are named

Thanks again

[HPsauce]

I'll try to do my best, as I obviously have one unit off the car I can take close-ups of that to cover most stages.
Much of the basics is covered in other threads/stickies/audipages (e.g. taking the glass out and covers off and the main door card) so I'll probably skip those.

[HPsauce]

1. Fold mirror, remove small phillips screw that is exposed in a recess in the end of the non-swivelling section.
This is a very fine-threaded screw into softish metal so take care, especially when reinstalling. The material around it is a soft foam plastic.
(if you don't do this first you'll just find the mirror is in the wrong configuration without power when you do need it removed )

[HPsauce]

This shows the triangular trim partly levered off. You may just see the clip and foam padding.
In retrospect this is probably a lot easier to get out (and definitely to put back) if the main door trim is released in that area - remove trim strip and relevant screw(s) behind and at corner.

[HPsauce]

7. Undo the two remaining screws that hold the exterior plastic trim onto the metal mounting plate. The 3rd screw outside near the pivot was removed in step 1.
These are typical coarse-thread self-tapping screws into plastic so do not overtighten on reassembly.

You can see the main electrical connector (for folding and heating) mounted on the unit and the 60cm cable for the secondary (memory) wiring.

[HPsauce]

8. Loosen the trim and manipulate it round (you can't take it off) until you can see the bottom of the main pivot. Turn the mirror unit so that it is upside down with the pivot (possibly only partially) on view.
(I don't actually remember if this is easier with the unit folded or open - the photo below was taken folded)

9. Liberally lubricate the pivot around the edges of the metal rings with WD40 3-in-1 oil etc. ensuring plenty runs through to the inside of the inaccessible gear mechanism.

I dripped lubricants into the small recesses you can see in the circular plate/washer adjacent to the central metal tube/pivot. They seemed to disappear inside and not drip out.
I did (partially) take the cover off the motor (on top, movement limited by cables) but that appeared sealed and not a route for lubricants.

[HPsauce]

11. Alternatively remove the unit completely and "exercise" it with a suitable 12v (or slightly higher, 14v or 15v) DC supply. The relevant pins are numbered 8 and 9 on the main connector. One polarity will open and the reverse will close.

I happened to have some small, insulated blade (faston type) connectors that fitted over the pins to facilitate wiring to my DC supply.

This picture is a bit blurred, but the relevant pins are clear enough, they are the central 2 in the row of 4. The numbers are moulded clearly into the plastic and visible by eye.
The pins are numbered 1 to 5 from left to right on the bottom row then 6 to 10 right to left along the top. Numbers 2,3,4 and 7,8,9,10 were present on mine.