What's in the workshop this week?

[Goran]

Haynes has got nothing on this lol, this is a way above any diy manual.
This is many levels above any Audi dealership No one else provides a service like this, amazing!

[big t5]

Dean, can i have it back please?????

[MikkiJayne]

Glad you're all enjoying it

I did a more detailed video at 10fps of the cam chain tensioner pads, but my web server has run out of space and I can't get an upgrade until Monday I'll upload that to FB and link it here, and then post the high quality version on Monday.

This is the second half of the engine reassembly:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean/h10ean_engine2.mp4

As we know, parts for D2s are getting vexingly scarce. For example, this hose to the oil cooler:



This one has been soaked in oil for years and is just like a big marshmallow. Unfortunately, no longer available

So, lets have a look in the big box of water hoses...



Hmm... an oil cooler hose from a PD130 looks like it might work



Yup. That'll do Just have to check it'll clear the AC compressor, but it looks good so far.



So this is where we are at close of play today:





This would be ready to go back in were it not for the flywheel bolts which are, bizarrely, backordered Seems like I have personally used up all of Audi UK's stock of quite a few D2 things...

Cleaning the engine bay tomorrow while I wait for those bolts, then on to suspension and brakes.

[Spanker]

Wow again!

To me, that's like having a new engine.
The type that you want to show off by opening the bonnet at a car show.
When you see this much effort being lavished upon the engine, suspension and brakes it makes you wonder what else should be done to the rest of the car to bring it up to the same standard.

I love the time-lapse videos by the way.
If you do anymore, can you add some Benny Hill music to them just to add an extra dimension

And sorry Tony. I don't think I want to pass her on to a new (or previous) owner at this moment in time. But you'll be the first to know if I change my mind

[homer simpson]

If this forum had a like button it would have been worn out on this thread!

Who needs Wheeler Dealers!

Hats off to Dean and MJ

[MikkiJayne]

Attached is the longer vid for the cam tensioner pad swap (down at the bottom of the post).

The first thing you'll probably notice is that I've got the cam locking bar in. The crank is also still locked. The reason for this is that if you do one bank at a time and don't remove the exhaust cam you never lose the timing. The official Audi procedure is to remove both cams which seems a bit excessive. Also, if you do it like this you don't actually have to remove the timing belt if you're doing the job in the car.

I'm doing all the oil seals here so I'm also taking the cam cap off the exhaust cam, but if you're just doing the pads you don't need to touch that seal.

Probably the single most important 'top tip' for this job is how to get the cam cap bolts loose. They're only done up to 10Nm on the V6 or 5Nm + 90° on the V8, but breaking them loose requires a substantial amount of torque - more than the average T30 tool can handle. The trick is to put the T30 tool in the bolt head (after cleaning out any crud or oil) and give it a sharp tap with a hammer. This breaks the stiction between the bolt and the threads, and it will then come out without breaking anything. It'll still go with a crack when it breaks loose, but at least it won't snap the tool! Buy the best T30 tool you can - Facom, Snapon, etc, and ideally have a sacrificial one for the hammer bit. Ideally have a couple of spares too!

The manual says replace the bolts on the V8, since they're torque + degrees, but I have measured used ones against new ones and they are identical so I've stopped replacing them, saving £100-odd on the job! The V6 bolts are just done to standard M6 torque so no need to replace them.

You can briefly see me marking the cam chain with nail polish - there's a TDC notch on each cam so I mark the chain exactly above that notch before I remove the cam. You can see me lift the intake cam and wiggle the tensioner out, then put the cam back in place. At no point do I remove the cam from the chain, therefore making sure I don't lose timing. You need to remove both the cam caps next to the chain to do this (ie intake and exhaust) in order for the tensioner to come out this way.

I let the new pads sit in a cup of hot water before fitting them. That makes them a little more flexible and they just pop on the tensioner without any fuss. You do need to remove the tensioner compressing tool to get the top pad on. Just hold the tensioner carefully while you do this and make sure the two pistons don't fall out and it'll be fine.

There is a little gauze filter in the bottom of the tensioner where it gets its oil feed from the head. Be careful not to damage this or let it drop out.





Tensioner pads are on ebay here btw, including the tensioner holding tool which is very useful. I have a drawer full of them now

[David's8]

Dean, I hope that you get all the photos (courtesy of MJ, of course) and make a picture book of this refurb.(I refrained from calling it a scrap book )