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#1
22nd September 2016, 04:50 PM
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Ooops just immobilised my D3
Why does my D3 always run into problems.
The coolant bottle has a break on the return pipe, so got a new tank and went to swap it tonight and got stuck. Disconnected both upper pipes, and sure enough the return pipe is very broken. Set about undoing the only three bolts that hold it in place only to find that all three captive nuts are spinning so the bolts will not come out. So now I have a car I cannot reattach the coolant pipe on without coolant going everywhere so cannot be started. Doh. Somehow these three nuts need to come out, i've tried mole grips on the bottom one, but it looks like corrosion has got the better of them. You can see the break in this picture, I wonder if I can do a temp fix or .....
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Manny 2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles Past 2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue 2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles. 2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles Last edited by mannyo; 22nd September 2016 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Attach picture 
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#2
22nd September 2016, 07:42 PM
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As a temp fix to get you mobile, you could insert a short length of pipe with a slightly smaller outside diameter inside the broken plastic section.
Copper might be easiest to get hold of. Otherwise you could dry some sort of glue or sealant to do a temporary repair the broken plastic section. Another option to get you mobile would be to cut the plastic tabs off the old tank to enable you to remove it, attach the pipework to the new tank and hold it in place using some cable ties or metal straps. None of the above solutions will look pretty but if you need to use your car ....
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#3
22nd September 2016, 07:50 PM
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The problem is that although the upper two bolts are easy to get at, the lower one is right down with a brake line running right by it and knowing me I'd end up damaging the brake line trying to cut through what is quiet thick plastic.
I suspect some kind of fix will be required, but need to find something that will hold and deal with the temperature fluctuations especially as we go into winter. This is the new part, forgive the mess but you can see the location of the three bolts.
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Manny 2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles Past 2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue 2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles. 2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles Last edited by mannyo; 22nd September 2016 at 07:59 PM.
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#4
22nd September 2016, 08:11 PM
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Just take a cap off coolant reservoir for temporary use, no pressure means no leaks and at this weather there should not be too much heat to cause any issues. I have done it several times on different cars be it radiator or hose leak, just fill up the system with water and drive it easy.
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure
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#6
22nd September 2016, 08:41 PM
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Yeah a dremel is the best tool for this. I had a few like this on my D2. Cut the heads off the nuts to remove the tank, and then cut the nutserts off the body from underneath. I've got plenty of spares plus an improvised tool to set them so PM me if you need a few, or cable tie it for now and swing by next time you're passing
 Alternatively you could also melt through the plastic with a soldering iron, if you don't want to put a saw near the bottom one. Or heat up an old kitchen knife with a blowtorch and melt it with that.
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