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#1
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knock sensor plug pigtail
The knock sensor plug pigtail looks to be disintegrating.
I have only done a general visual inspection of everything I can see in the engine room while I have removed all the plastic covers. But from what I understand looking through old threads where MJ shows photos and comments, it is something better left untouched? I looked at one of your photos MJ, with the manifold removed. No way I can get to that. By the way, I do not have two green knock sensors, but one green and one orange. *I hope I use the correct words for the parts. I could find knock sensor cables in online shops, but not the plug pigtail*
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Johannes _________ Audi S8 -99, Pearlescent, Alcantara/silk napa leather, Burr walnut insert, Alcantara roof lining upper pack A8 32V engine ----- Jeep Grand Cherokee -98 |
#2
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Araldite?
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions and extended leather. Ski hatch retrofit. Aftermarket reversing camera. DVB-T and XCarlink now removed as redundant. 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. Agate Grey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, Tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon. Added Auto-dim mirror, Leather seats, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#3
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Interesting suggestion, would that work? On the other hand it would look pretty awful, I fear.
But it might be the only option. As I cannot risk removing the manifold and drop some dirt into the engine
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Johannes _________ Audi S8 -99, Pearlescent, Alcantara/silk napa leather, Burr walnut insert, Alcantara roof lining upper pack A8 32V engine ----- Jeep Grand Cherokee -98 |
#4
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I had both of my knock sensors replaced a while ago. One of the plugs had disintegrated just like yours so I suspect it's a common issue. From memory, the sensors weren't too expensive and came complete with new leads and plugs.
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Mark ------------------------------------------------------ 2002 FE S8 Ebony Black Pearl ------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------ Cars Owned: The Tesla Era: 2020 Model S Performance Ludicrous+ (present) (Black, with all black premium interior and carbon fibre décor, 21" sonic carbon twin turbine wheels and FSD capability) The Audi Era: '97 A8 4.2 (Ming Blue) --> '96 A8 4.2 QS (Dark Green) --> '02 FE S8 (present) The Citroen Era: '84 BX 1.6 RS --> '89 BX 1.9 DTR Turbo --> '94 XM 2.0L Turbo --> '96 XM 2.0L Turbo Exclusive --> '00 Xantia Activa 2.0L Turbo The Banger Era: '76 1.2L Lada VAZ-2101 (Ruski Fiat 124) --> '80 1.7L Morris Ital HL, finished in Ermine White and Rust |
#5
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Yes, it is a common problem. Somehow Bosch managed to make the connectors from a plastic which doesn't survive the heat of an engine bay
You can't just replace the connector unfortunately. Its a screened cable which is very difficult to work with. The connector colour denotes the cable length by the way. Tbh if taking the manifold off is not an option I would be inclined to go with Andrew's suggestion of an adhesive product to hold the connector together. Yes, it has a high risk of looking fairly awful, but thats really all you can do with the green one. The brown one is on the outside of the V though, behind the power steering pump, so that can be changed without too much difficulty. |
#6
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Normal "domestic" Araldite is nominally only rated up to 65C, but would probably be OK. I'd probably risk it on my own car.
Better to find a 2-part epoxy adhesive rated for a higher temperature as the engine bay will normally be over 110C; there are loads available, Araldite themselves have a huge range. Or look at UV-cured adhesives, again a wide choice. I've used Bondic which I think is OK up to 150C; it's also clear and easy to build up so can be tidy.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions and extended leather. Ski hatch retrofit. Aftermarket reversing camera. DVB-T and XCarlink now removed as redundant. 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. Agate Grey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, Tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon. Added Auto-dim mirror, Leather seats, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! Last edited by HPsauce; 30th June 2020 at 03:21 PM. |
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