Steering /suspension issue diagnosis

mannyo · #1 10th January 2012, 06:48 PM

I bought my D2 cheap last week,and whilst driving it around have identified a weird issue that I would like to get sorted.

At slow speed on an uneven surface the front left sometimes makes the odd clonking sound. The driveway to the house I rent is a farm track of compressed mud and very uneven.

On a smooth road the car drives very smoothly, however on a bumpy road its almost like you need to constantly apply steering input to keep going in a straight line. Also if I run over a drain that has sunk in the road with the left wheel then the car almost seems to get pulled in that direction and require a small steering correction to keep straight.

I guess I maybe looking at worn bushes or simillar, so any thoughts out there.

PsYcHe · #2 10th January 2012, 08:29 PM

Could be worn bushes.. Could also be the fact that these cars get really badly affected by bumps and lumps in the road too.

Architex_mA8tey · #3 10th January 2012, 08:41 PM

There are 10 suspension arms in all and if one or two are worn then it could well be a good idea to replace the whole set. Its most likely to be item 7 on this diagram. I replaced my whole set a few months ago and noticed a huge difference in how the steering felt and now all feels tight and more responsive

johnds8 · #4 11th January 2012, 08:51 AM

With regards to the steering tug this is more than likely just down to the width of the tyres on these cars. Wider tyres do tend to cause tramlining more than thinner.

Clonking would normally be something worn. Best to get it off the ground and have a good ole tug about. I bet a garage wouldn't charge too much to do it for you. Perhaps even beer tokens.

My last car, celica wrc, had multilink suspension and was a nightmare for that. Replacing the whole setup on there, which are heavy steel items too, costs over a grand. Good ole Audi...at least replacement on these cars is quite reasonable.

I'm going to be replacing all my arms shortly as Audi have replaced a couple of the top arms in the recent past so the rest can't be far behind.

I'm going to take a good ole look at the old arms once off as I've always done poly conversions on my old cars and that really firms things up nicely. Ill also look at the ball joints and if there is a method to replace them as an el-cheapo set off ebay converted to poly with better ball joints would make some rather nice arms.

John

HPsauce · #5 11th January 2012, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnds8

I'm going to be replacing all my arms shortly

I had most of the front arms & links replaced on mine at the last service, mainly spotted because it would have failed the MOT which was due soon after.
It was only when I got it back that I realised just how "sloppy" it had become over time; it's now really sharp.

mannyo: I would have thought that any reasonable Audi or independent (that you would trust to do the work) would check it over & report for little or no cost.

Dezzy · #6 11th January 2012, 09:53 AM

Sounds like arms to me, jack up the front and wiggle the wheel you'll see movement if they are worn. Don't use the jack from the boot!

I have replaced all mine bar 1 that i couldn't get the nut off trying to stop a rattling, that turned out to be a caliper.

If you want to save a few quid, it's an easy job and is doable on the drive with minimal tools, you will need an 18mm socket and many sets do not have one so check first.

There is a very good how to on audipages, there is a bolt that you'll need to cut out so buy a pair of new bolts before you start stripping.

Sets of arms are available from ebay too if you want to save even more (like i did

) but better quaility arms are available.

johnds8 · #7 11th January 2012, 11:47 AM

Out of interest the Audipages guide mentions you need to remove the hub to do the job. Is this absolutely necessary as it seems bit of a faff just to pop a few balljoints and bolts out?

John

Dezzy · #8 11th January 2012, 12:21 PM

No the hub doesn't need to be removed.

It's not a hard job but don't go thinking it's as easy as just popping a few ball joints out. It'll take a few hours start to finish the first timem you do it.

Also the pinchbolt on the top arms could be a nightmare

johnds8 · #9 11th January 2012, 03:59 PM

Thanks Dezzy.

Good I'm glad the hub doesn't have to come off.

I'm sure it won't be easy but I'm well versed in the toyota superstrut system and have lost count of how many three leg pullers and cheap balljoint splitters I've broken in the past......yes, it really is that bad!! Even had very heavy duty swivel joints. I can see what they were doing to keep constant camber but I think the Audi system is emminantly more sensible, cheaper to repair and lighter. VDT!!

I've got a very heavy duty ball joint splitter now and, all else fails, a pickle fork and lump hammer!! Already got an angle grinder to use on the bolts if necessary.

Ill pre-soak thoroughly and see how I get on. As mentioned a couple of the top links were replaced with OEM parts by the dealer only a few thousand miles ago so a couple less to do at least.

Cheers

John

mannyo · #10 16th January 2012, 08:10 PM

Well, thanks for the comments everyone, as much as I would like to DIY it the weather is just way to cold to do it and I don't have any tools here so would need to purchase all of that as well.

Car is going into APD (VASWorks) in Poole on Thursday for Cambelt with all ancillaries change and service. Neil is going to have a look at the suspension for me and give me a call with a verdict.