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D2 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc |
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Display Modes
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#23
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I did change relay for switching over to fan when hot with 5V version and it does work reasonably well. Sometimes it makes couple of clicks when switching to fan but it does work. It has been 1 week now and I have been monitoring voltages on the remote control from aftermarket alarm to avoid drain from battery by central locking pump and lights in doors and boot when they are open and so that readings are consistent with car being left for a week untouched. From the past experience I know know that fully charged battery drops from 12.6V to 12.4V in the car if left on it's own for a week. Good news are that now the battery is still at 12.6V after 1 week. I have been checking voltages early in the morning when I come home after work slightly after 6 am so that battery have had a rest during night and settled. The reading has been 12.6 V every morning. By 8 am it raises to 12.8V and is 13V on a sunny day, I have even seen it at 13.2V couple of days. On a cloudy day it takes a bit longer than 8am to reach 12.8V and it remains at 12.8V, does not go any higher.
So all in all the system does work I just need to find a good place for the temperature switch to make it work effectively. I the past I have been putting car on the charger if it does not get used for 2 weeks and voltage drops to 12.2V, looks like with the solar panel connected to keep battery topped up I should get away without need to use external charger. I will put together a small guide, parts I used and diagram for anybody who would like to replicate it shortly. Here is a quick picture of remote control showing voltage 13V taken this morning at 09:20, it was 12.6V at 06:30 but has gone up to 13V now. Quote:
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
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