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#1
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Just a side note - not sure if its an update or more of an observation.
Checked all the fuses, all were okay (on both sides). However, I lifted the bonnet and powered off the car, and noticed a clicking noise. Almost like an open/shut valve of some kind. It went on and off about 3 or 4 times, then closed. I don't know what it is or if it was there before, but then even when I turn the ignition on, and not the engine, then switch it off - the same clicking noise is present. It's similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDG3...ature=youtu.be The engine being so loud, I don't know if its doing it while in operation, but it's definitely doing it when I switch everything off. Is this normal behaviour or could it be a signal? |
#2
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Scan tool image attached
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#3
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Turbo sounds likely. Best thing to do is clear the codes and see if they come back as the machine on the photo doesn't seem to show when they started to ocurr and how often. Maybe it was a fluke 6 months ago and therefore a red herring.
Unbeknown to me, I had a blocked DPF when I bought the car. Some buffoon (probably the selling garage) had done a software DPF delete, and then hollowed-out the catalytic converter instead of the DPF. It was fine when I test drove and on the way home from Birmingham to Nottingham. The symptoms were not bad when first setting off first thing with cold engine but progressive loss of power as it warmed up. It also ran hotter, not colder. After a week, the turbo centre gasket blew due to the back pressure so I put a new £800 turbo on thinking that was the problem, still no power. It took a while to find it was the DPF and another £400 later all sorted by removing the DPF and finding it chockablock with soot. Luckily I bought the car for a great price and the dealer went bust a few days later. Maybe your second thermostat beside the autobox is stuck open. There is a thread somewhere, and it's a £20 fix. When you get some air through the radiator it soon pulls the temp down with this stat open. |
#4
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I understand, I'll follow up on that thermostat problem ASAP as its a simple fix.
To be honest, I'm hoping it's not the turbo as thats going to cost a chunk!! If it's just a controller or DPF needs some work, then that should be fine I'd assume (in cost comparison to an entirely new turbo!) I was going to remove the DPF, but I'd be terribly upset should it not be the issue, and then have wasted that money that could've gone to something else. It's heartbreaking |
#5
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I forgot to mention - when those codes are cleared, they instantly come back on when the engine is started.
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#6
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Anyone?
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#7
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It needs further investigation by someone who understands basic faultfinding procedures and has decent diagnostic tools.
I wouldn't waste your time changing parts until it's been established if you have one or more underlying faults. ElsaWIN suggests there's a procedure for checking the actuator, which involves fitting a new link and confirming the turbo actuator is free and moves to where it's supposed to based on electrical signals received from the control unit. This thread looks very similar in terms of symptoms and fault codes http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...den-Power-Loss It needs to go to a proper VAG specialist with the necessary tools - the VAG tool for testing the control unit is 'Tester for E-positioner -VAS 6395-'
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===SOLD===2002 Audi S8 D2 Final Edition (yes, really) in Avus Silver with purple extended leather===SOLD=== 2011 S5 Sportback in Phantom Black with black Super Sports leather, 9x20s, tech pack high, adaptive xenon plus, intelligent key, memory seats pack, sunroof, B&O, Audi Drive Select & quattro Sports Diff, DAB, parking system plus 2015 VW Golf GTI Performance Pack in Carbon Grey with black Vienna leather, tech pack (Discovery Pro nav & Dynaudio), DCC, factory towbar and retrofit RVC |
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