Mystery Connector - Can anyone tell what it is?

[Spanker]

Originally Posted by IT

Its too shallow to be part of the big multi block. The strips inside that are always blue in my experience.

If I was a betting man, I'd say its more likely from a parrot or some similar aftermarket rubbish that has been removed in a hurry at some point and the wires just tucked behind.

I imagine lifting the passenger side floor mats, wooden cover and left hand transmission tunnel cover may reveal some more aftermarketisms as there is little room around the glovebox itself for modules, but its a common wiring route for hacks.....

I thought I would have a look yesterday evening and attempt to remove the wire as per Ian's suggestion (if it wasn't connected to something important).
I tugged from behind the glove box to get the wire dangling from underneath the glove box. I then removed the floor mat and then the carpet.
Oh dear!
Dampness
Not soaking, but a thin layer of moisture on the black plastic under the mat and the wooden board looked as though it was damp in a "wet cardboard" kind of way.
It was dark and cold so I just left it and came inside and today it's not much warmer so I shall look at it another day.
I found a thread on this forum that linked to this page so I guess I will be blowing air through tubes in the near future if nothing else gives rise to the cause.

Funny (not!) how one thing leads to another isn't it?
I've got a problem with:
a) Some of my glowing cabin lights (nav controls, vents, little red ambience lights under mirror, dash swtiches etc.) not working
b) My rear ceiling central interior light (not rear reading lights) not working when the doors are opened or the switch is "on" but working when the front interior light switch is switched "on".
c) ALL parking sensors clicking audibly (when my ear is very close to them) but the error beep and flashing parking sensor switch going off when reverse is selected.
d) The rear window demister taking AGES (10-15 minutes) to clear the screen, perhaps due to too much moisture inside the car.

I wonder how many of the above are related to dampness in the electrics/relays or whether it's just faulty components and replacement parts will need to be sourced from our sponsors? A good dry-out will be first. If anyone recognises the above as common faults with easy solutions then your input would be appreciated.

Dean

[MikkiJayne]

Dampness on the wooden board usually means one of Audi's little Easter eggs called 'Botang's hole' is leaking. The grey bit in the top right here:



http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=7645&page=2

The HVAC drains can do it too but you often hear a sloshing sound as the water in the heater box moves around. If you run the AC for a while while stationary do you get a puddle under the car? I'll have the console side panels off mine this afternoon so I'll post a pic of where the drain valves are. Its worth taking them off and cleaning them out anyway although if it is full of water then have a bowl or bucket handy for when you take them out.

Cabin lights is a tricky one since they all run from the same circuit. You'll probably need to spend some time with the wiring diagrams and a multimeter to figure that one out.

Do you get the indication in the dash when the rear doors are open? If not then the switches are likely the problem with the interior light. I think they are in the door lock mechs in the D2 iirc.

VCDS should tell you whats up with the parking sensors. Likely there is a bad connection on one or more sensors front and rear, or they could have moisture in them.

You're probably right on the rear window. Sort the HVAC drains and Botang's hole and get a dehumidifier in it for a few days and hopefully that will improve.

[Spanker]

Thank you.
I saw your hole and went straight out to my car to have a play. Then I realised that mine didn't quite look as bare as yours. And I've now left it too late in the cold day to start anything.
I removed the trim that covers the pipes and shone my phone light down there but couldn't see anything apart from one of the grommets. So after reading the other thread(s) someone said that removing the wipers and trim would let in more light and free up some access. So weather permitting, I shall do that tomorrow along with the orange pipes inside near to the front tunnel.
I also read that others had used Mr Muscle plug unblocker to free up some drainage holes and thought that may be a good preventative thing to do. But I couldn't see what drainage holes were being discussed so may need to dig a bit deeper on that one.
I didn't check for water under the car after running the engine for a while, as it was already damp under there. Again, another check for tomorrow just to see.

The rear doors do register on the DIS when the doors are open. I thought that they would show up straight away when the doors are opened and got a bit downhearted when they didn't. It just showed the typical DIS message about pressing the brake when stationary and selecting gear (or whatever it says). It was only when I selected a gear that the DIS changed to show open doors. Did I tell you I was new to this model?
So the door switches work. But for the first time when the car was started there was nothing on the DIS until I touched it with my finger then it lit dimly before going to full brightness.
With this in mind, I think that there is definitely an earthing problem or something similar with the car. A scan on VCDS and maybe a trip to an auto-electrician should help me with the internal electrics.

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Dampness on the wooden board usually means one of Audi's little Easter eggs called 'Botang's hole' is leaking. The grey bit in the top right here:



http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=7645&page=2

The HVAC drains can do it too but you often hear a sloshing sound as the water in the heater box moves around. If you run the AC for a while while stationary do you get a puddle under the car? I'll have the console side panels off mine this afternoon so I'll post a pic of where the drain valves are. Its worth taking them off and cleaning them out anyway although if it is full of water then have a bowl or bucket handy for when you take them out.

Cabin lights is a tricky one since they all run from the same circuit. You'll probably need to spend some time with the wiring diagrams and a multimeter to figure that one out.

Do you get the indication in the dash when the rear doors are open? If not then the switches are likely the problem with the interior light. I think they are in the door lock mechs in the D2 iirc.

VCDS should tell you whats up with the parking sensors. Likely there is a bad connection on one or more sensors front and rear, or they could have moisture in them.

You're probably right on the rear window. Sort the HVAC drains and Botang's hole and get a dehumidifier in it for a few days and hopefully that will improve.

[MikkiJayne]

Oh I should have mentioned I took those photos while mine was in pieces! Dezzy's pictures earlier on in the thread show it with everything assembled.

From the factory that hole is covered with fabric tape then painted over so its quite hard to see. Removing the lower windscreen trim will definitely help. Be gentle with it as by now the plastic can be quite fragile.

The drain cleaner is for the scuttle / rain tray drains which are underneath the outside portion of the heater box. They're impossible to get to with the car in one piece so drain cleaner should sink down in to them and dissolve all the leaves and crud which blocks them up. Its a bit harsh though. No idea what it would do to the paintwork, or the aluminium body and gearbox casing it will drain on to.

The orange doodad here is one of the two internal drains:



You have to remove the lower dash panel, the footrest, and the glovebox to get the console side panels off (probably a diy on here somewhere), then the drains can be removed and cleaned. They go through the sound deadening and in to the tunnel where they drain out behind the tunnel heat shield. They pull out easily enough but its a bit of a fiddle to get them back in. Seat them in the tunnel metalwork first, then connect back to the heater box.

[Spanker]

Thank you again.
Perfectly explained.
It sounds as though you do this kind of thing for a living.

Dean

[HPsauce]

I think I put a few tips in one of my threads about the drains. Key ones:
1. Orange (A/C) drains- much easier to get at the nearside one for an emergency clearout to deal with "sloshing". Do the drivers side when you have more time.
2. Refitting the orange drains is MUCH easier if you soften them in really hot water and lubricate with washing-up liquid (in the hot water if you want). And while you have them off (to drain the A/C tray) clean them thoroughly.
3. The scuttle drains I've cleared with dishwasher detergent (or traditional washing powder) and really hot water, left to soak. Repeat with hot water to really get them clear. DRAIN CLEANER I WOULDN'T RISK. Do NOT overfill as it overflows into the car, as I know to my cost.