Odo/Trip & Time date displays failing

[moltuae]

You could try contacting Sacer:
https://www.sacer-shop.com/car-brand/audi.html

I've bought a few things from them in the past and they were very helpful. It's possible they might be willing to source the parts if they don't have something compatible in stock.

[Nick Jones]

Thanks for that - I'll mail them.

Nick

[spannerrash]

Did you get anywhere with this Nick?

Cheers Frank

[spannerrash]

Hello all.

I have sent the below email to Sacer and Totaltronics. I'll let you know if I get a response.

"Hi*

In the attachment is a picture of the screen fitted to the above car (Audi s8 d2 2002) . As with many cars of this age, they start to fail. I can't find anyone who has any of these as a DIY or a complete repair service. Can you help at all.*

Thanks Frank*

[spannerrash]

Reply from Totaltronics.

Hi Frank,

unfortunately none of our suppliers has such screen in their offer.

Usually it's because either the car is too rare or the part doesn't fail, hence there is no market for it.

Kind regards
Patryk

totaltronics.com

[Nick Jones]

Just to be clear..... are we all talking about the same screens here?

I'm talking about the ODO/trip and time/date, but the one in the pic looks like the larger, central semi-colour display?

Patryk at TotalTronics reckoned he could do the smaller ones when I discussed it with him.

Need to chase up Sacer......

This fell down the priority list due to recent battles with other aging VAG product in the family. B6 A4, which although relatively low mileage and known history seems to feel that going wrong every two weeks is acceptable... And its an absolute horror to work on.

Then there is a recently acquired Octavia II. It looks ok from on top, but when you get right under it..... seems to have been used for boat launching into salt water. Was apparently MoT'd by a blind man last time as all flexihoses split..... which would be easy enough to sort if all the hard line fittings weren't corroded solid. The powder coated pipe is the very devil to re-flare

Nick

[spannerrash]

Yeah..... Sorry Nick, I am actually talking about the color center display. Misunderstood your thread. I'll jump to the thread that's specific to this display when I get something to update.

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by Nick Jones

which would be easy enough to sort if all the hard line fittings weren't corroded solid. The powder coated pipe is the very devil to re-flare

Assuming they are the same brake fittings as the D2 with the C-shaped spring holding the flexi in to the bracket:

1. Press the brake pedal and hold it down with a broom. This stops fluid draining out when you open the system
2. Try and get the hardline union moving in the flexi fitting, but obviously don't turn it too far otherwise you'll corkscrew the hardline. Just enough that it comes loose.
3. Cut the flex off as that is sacrificial.
4. Cut the C-shaped spring off (chunky wire cutters + metal fatigue)
5. You're left with the hardline and the flexi end fitting. Hold the hardline fitting still and wind the flexi fitting off it (mole grips etc)
6. Let the brake fluid drip out (won't be much - only the downward portion of the line, as the master cylinder is cutting off fluid flow from the reservoir)
7. Heat the hardline union with a blowtorch until the plastic coating melts and oozes out of the union, then before it cools use a spanner etc to wiggle it and get it rotating. You can then wiggle it up from the flare whereupon you can clean out all the corrosion and old plastic and eventually get the fitting to spin freely.
8. Clean the end of the hardline with sandpaper and thinners and paint it with direct-to-metal paint (I use Rustoleum).
9. When the paint is dry, reassemble with the new flexi and a replacement C spring, then I usually give it a squirt of spray grease or waxoyl to stop moisture getting in again.