For Sale Audi S8 D2 2002 Spares or Repairs

HPsauce · #1 27th February 2018, 09:34 AM

It think that would be a big (potentially expensive) assumption. Does the radiator warm up?

MikkiJayne · #2 27th February 2018, 01:14 PM

Take the belt covers off and see if the belt is tight on the pump pulley. Sometimes the crank can kick back under compression when the engine stops which can loosen the belt a little but it shouldn't be slack.

If there is any slip on the pulley, see if you can spin it by hand and see what it feels like - looking for clunks or odd noises, or a grumbly bearing.

carl81 · #3 27th February 2018, 04:43 PM

So I’m not convinced all of the radiator is warming up:

https://youtu.be/GIg8nAgkv7o

And and that temp would have expected the fan to kick in which it did not. However think that is a red herring as it doesn’t cool down once in motion.

Re the pulleys may need my mechanic to look at that might be getting too much for me!

HPsauce · #4 27th February 2018, 04:48 PM

Er, no cap on the coolant header tank and temperature showing around 110C! Does NOT compute.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Remember the CTS has two sensors in it, one drives the display on the dash, the other gives information to the engine ECU, so what you see on the dash doesn't necessarily mean anything. VCDS I think can read both.

Replace your CTS.

MikkiJayne · #5 27th February 2018, 05:40 PM

Ok with the temperature gauge that high the coolant should be boiling out of the header tank like a volcano, but the partly-warm radiator and steam from the tank disagree with the gauge so time to change the sensor.

Buy a genuine sensor from TPS (about £40) because aftermarket versions suck and the cheap 'genuine' ones on ebay are Chinesium fakes. Also buy the seal and clip because they'll need changing too. You can do it without losing much coolant as long as the cap is still on the tank. The sensor is down the back of the engine under the air intake tube. Its likely to be well stuck in there and there will probably be lots of schmutz in the hole - clean that out with a screwdriver and then a small wire brush or stainless pan scrubbing thing. Lubricate the new seal with a smear of washing up liquid and it should go back in without a fight.

059919501A dual temperature sensor
032121142 retaining clip
N90316802 o-ring seal

Opps missed your post Andrew!

HPsauce · #6 27th February 2018, 05:53 PM

Yup, I've been down the road of using cheap ones. Just don't.

MJ I put a link to the "CTS-101" thread in an earlier post, gives all the hints on how to do it safely.

(I did it several times without losing any coolant at all, starting with a cold engine)

carl81 · #7 27th February 2018, 06:33 PM

Ok I will do just that. I’ve done 2 of these before on an A6 and a Passat.

Never used TPS before but there is an Audi garage 5 mins from my work whom I’ve always used for next day parts. Will their prices be the same or TPS cheaper?

And thanks again, much appreciated for all your help.

Adrian E · #8 27th February 2018, 07:01 PM

TPS will usually give a better price over the counter than a main dealer, but probably negated if you have to travel any distance to one compared to your local dealer.

I always use TPS as they're far more knowledgeable in my experience. The Audi parts guy at my local main dealer is actually very good, but always charges full RRP. The VW parts lot up the road are pathetically bad.