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D2 - Fuel and Exhausts Everything to do with getting fuel into the engine, and fumes back out again

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  #1  
Old 18th May 2020, 02:44 PM
Audifan Audifan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ainarssems View Post
I made a tool from metal bar and 2 bolts, M6 I think, when I was doing it.
Part of my post yesterday
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Originally Posted by Audifan View Post
.....I don't have the special tool to remove the fuel sender cap or have a way to make my own tool.....
I don't have a welder and don't have a drill press. So I can't take a metal bar to weld two bolts to it or take a metal bar and drill two holes to fit the bolts though. I guess I'm going to have to buy the tool.
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Old 18th May 2020, 03:59 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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This is what I use:



Lube sometimes helps too - I tend not to use WD40 on o-rings or plastic, but some sort of light oil maintenance spray which is thin enough to soak down the cracks would help.
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Old 18th May 2020, 07:10 PM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audifan View Post
Part of my post yesterday

I don't have a welder and don't have a drill press. So I can't take a metal bar to weld two bolts to it or take a metal bar and drill two holes to fit the bolts though. I guess I'm going to have to buy the tool.
I used cordless drill and and bolts with nuts,
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Old 19th May 2020, 08:31 AM
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C4R 100N C4R 100N is offline
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This solution cost me a few dollars from a hardware shop. No tools or welding required - just a measurement or two. Ok, I lied - I did have to file the channels in the angled metal a little.

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Did you read the notes that I posted?

Click here

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Last edited by C4R 100N; 19th May 2020 at 08:36 AM. Reason: added notes link
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Old 29th July 2020, 12:15 AM
Shel155 Shel155 is offline
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If anyone's interested. Just recently did this and that video wasn't much help at all. There's a youtube video tho in Russian, which shows... exactly how it's done. Slow it down, watch it a few times and, worked for me. One thing about that seal and cap, I found it's much easier if you lube up the large ring and cap threads with silicone lube, will allow smooth seating of the ring and tightening of the cap. Really don't need the special took for the cap, just tap it down with small hammer and maybe hard piece of wood so as not to damage the tabs? Needs to be quite snug or you'll get leaks and be smelling fuel. Mine wasn't tight enough, had to take it back out and lube up the parts, went smooth after that.
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Old 29th July 2020, 02:45 AM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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You really don't want silicone grease anywhere near fuel, even small amounts of silicone can contaminate O2 sensors and cats and prevent them from working correctly, engine oil would be better bet.
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Last edited by ainarssems; 29th July 2020 at 02:49 AM.
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  #7  
Old 4th August 2020, 08:05 PM
Audifan Audifan is offline
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How tight does the fuel pump lock ring have to be?



This picture of the lock ring was taken before I removed the lock ring and you can see the yellow marks that I made for reference points before removal.




I'm trying to finish up reinstalling everything and as you can see in this picture the yellow marks are not lined up.

To me it feels like I have the lock ring pretty tight but as you can see in the two comparison pictures that the lock ring reference marks are not in line from when I originally made the marks.



I have another issue where I can't get the left side fuel float to sit down in the hole flush. When I push down it seems like it's bind up against something? Any tips on getting this installed correctly?
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Old 9th August 2020, 03:09 PM
Audifan Audifan is offline
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Any tips for properly installing the left fuel float?
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