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D2 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#21
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When I read this I suspected the power output would be too low for charging.
The interior fan runs at a significantly slower speed when on solar power than on internal power. Maintenance is a good idea, though 0.65amps isn't much. The CTek maintenance chargers operate at 0.8amps, and like ainarssems said, that kind of amperage will only maintain a battery, it is totally insufficient for charging (unless you have about 6 months to wait, and even then I doubt it'll get you far!). Even a standard 4amp charger will only get you to about 60% as the batteries internal resistance increases as it charges. It'll be interesting to see how the maintenance charger mod goes, though as my car spends about 80% of its life in a garage, I'm not sure if it'd be worth while for me!
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Cheers Marty ____________________ Current: 2001 Audi S8 - Brilliant Black with Black interior, C5 RS6 rims (whenever I actually put them on...), Solar Sunroof, Tinted side and rear glass, RNS-D, Grom, Bose, clunky old phone in arm rest! 2002 Audi S8 - Project Replacement head coming arrived thanks to MJ Silver with Black interior. All features as the '01, with the 'S' mode auto shifter. Dodgey rear tint (need to find a way to get rid of that). Family: 2009 Volvo XC90 V8 R Design - has a louder more obnoxious exhaust than the S8, sounds great! Love this thing - Q7 was double the price, and certainly not double the car! Sold: 1997 Audi A4 - Hamilton's Club Sport, Achat Grey (will miss the old girl) Last edited by 27litres; 12th April 2015 at 02:09 AM. |
#22
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Very good point! I am so silly, since I'm planning to move to somewhere with a garage, maybe this wont work for me. Unless I make a static unit on the outside of the garage to plug into the battery when the car is going to be stationary for a while. |
#23
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I did change relay for switching over to fan when hot with 5V version and it does work reasonably well. Sometimes it makes couple of clicks when switching to fan but it does work. It has been 1 week now and I have been monitoring voltages on the remote control from aftermarket alarm to avoid drain from battery by central locking pump and lights in doors and boot when they are open and so that readings are consistent with car being left for a week untouched. From the past experience I know know that fully charged battery drops from 12.6V to 12.4V in the car if left on it's own for a week. Good news are that now the battery is still at 12.6V after 1 week. I have been checking voltages early in the morning when I come home after work slightly after 6 am so that battery have had a rest during night and settled. The reading has been 12.6 V every morning. By 8 am it raises to 12.8V and is 13V on a sunny day, I have even seen it at 13.2V couple of days. On a cloudy day it takes a bit longer than 8am to reach 12.8V and it remains at 12.8V, does not go any higher.
So all in all the system does work I just need to find a good place for the temperature switch to make it work effectively. I the past I have been putting car on the charger if it does not get used for 2 weeks and voltage drops to 12.2V, looks like with the solar panel connected to keep battery topped up I should get away without need to use external charger. I will put together a small guide, parts I used and diagram for anybody who would like to replicate it shortly. Here is a quick picture of remote control showing voltage 13V taken this morning at 09:20, it was 12.6V at 06:30 but has gone up to 13V now. Quote:
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
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