If you put the part number into ETKA it shows 4 variants

4H0953568B dropped in 2010 not replaced
4H0953568B Z00 dropped in 2011 replaced with 4H0953568H Z00
4H0953568B Z01 dropped in 2011 replaced with 4H0953568H Z01
4H0953568B Z02 dropped in 2011 replaced with 4H0953568H Z02

Excellent! That's the info Paul wanted +++

Thanks both, very helpful +++

Will keep you posted once I have bought one!

So finally got around to this today - almost there but not quite 100% before it went dark!

I will write up when complete, but in short so far has been a new wheel, switch, slip ring and one additional wire +++

When done I adapted the new slip ring and then used the output tests to turn on the wheel - started to warm up nicely but then a symphony of warning bongs and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree - almost every module reported an error in VCDS! :mad:

After some troubleshooting I remembered my tendency to overlook the obvious, checked the fuse for the steering wheel module and it had popped - on checking it's a 5A fuse if you don't have a heated wheel and a 10A if you do - the heating element seems to draw about 7A :ROFL:

Changed that, set about clearing fault codes in every module - all back to normal again. Slight issue, I re-coded the steering wheel module for a heated wheel, but I can't switch it on using the button. I can see from the measuring blocks the button works but when I press it I get the message "Heated Steering Wheel Turned Off" - it should toggle on then off.

I suspect a minor coding issue - but it is dark so gave up - maybe tomorrow +++

Any more joy today ?

Sorry, slow to update with the hectic run up to Christmas..... but now say with my feet up - heated wheel all working perfectly. Will write up properly soon +++

Write up
 

Parts used:
4H0 419 091 AF – Heated wheel, 3 spoke
4H0953568B – Slip ring
4H0953551A - Button
8K0 973 754 – Plug (Slip ring connection)
000 979 009 EA – Repair wire

Optional but well worthwhile:
8V0951523XHA – RS7 Paddles

What I did:
Remove the battery with the ignition turned on – supposed to minimise risk of accidental airbag activation.

Remove airbag – with a screwdriver release two “catches” at 3 and 9 on the rear of the steering wheel (will be obvious when you look at your replacement wheel. Disconnect the wiring.

Centre the wheel to help with re-alignment - Remove the large bolt that holds the wheel in place and pull the old wheel off the spline.

Remove the upper and lower cowls (three screws for the lower).

Remove the small torx screw that holds the slip ring in place, disconnect the wiring and unclip the steering ring.

You need an additional wire from the steering control button to the slip ring, use the repair wire which connects into the existing plug at the button and into the new plug for the slip ring (where it will be the only connection). I wrapped this in cloth tape and routed along the existing loom.

Install the new slip ring, re-connect the wiring.

Change the steering control switch, two screws.

Re-attach the cowlings.

Optional – replace the paddles on the wheel, remove the plastic facia (just pulls off) to access one torx screw per paddle, the wiring is tight so be careful but they just swap right over.

Install the wheel ensuring correct alignment (i.e. straight if that is where you started).

Connect the heating wiring to the slip ring, re-install the airbag (wiring first then just push into place).

Re-connect the battery.

Change fuse 8 in carrier B (brown) in the driver’s side dash panel from a 5A to a 10A.

Turn on the ignition, expect some warning lights! Plug in VCDS and check for error codes, you will need to re-calibrate the Steering Angle Sensor and possibly the Dynamic Steering if installed. Ross-tech have guides to do this.
Re-code modules 08 and 16 to tick the “Heated Wheel” option.

Change the default temperature of the wheel, go to module 16 (steering wheel), adaptation and select channel 10 – default is 28 (degrees C), I upped mine to 36!

Check everything works, wait for a cold day and bask in the warmth from the heated wheel :)

Photo of the finished article – when I did this originally I kept the original paddles, but I think the RS7 ones make a massive difference to the look and feel and help me remember the change for the 10 months a year I don’t want warm hands!

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1486124508

Great write up Paul. +++

Great write up I may well do this myself soon.. one of the few options my car doesn't have, and I really like the chrome paddles too. I actually use my paddles quite often as the car seems to over rev naturally and drop out of the power band (4.2tdi) I think the perfect change to maintain torque is around 3400rpm after that is a pointless wast of rpm.

Just working on this retrofit now to discover that maybe not all Audi A8 D4 steering wheel column looms are the same. The main harness connector to the Steering column control module I have doesn't have pins 1 (GND) & 2 (12V) wired.

A question to those who have done this, was this also the case for your install? Was pin 1&2 wired already or did you just replace fuse in fuse carrier 2, Fuse 8C to a higher rating?

It looks like the steering wheel heating element can pull power from other pins (3 for 12V & 10 for GND) but it seems like the pins its meant to pull from (1&2) are a heavier duty so not to over load 3&10.

Also :) the steering column switch - does that single signal wire go to pin 1 on that unused connector on the steering column control module?