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#11
31st May 2015, 08:45 PM
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The saga continues, and I am now leaning towards a fueling issue.
This evening I tried to start the car several times on the driveway, but seconds after starting, it would die. This happened three times before the car would simply not start at all. I can hear the fuel pump prime however, so it doesn't seem to have failed completely. Interestingly, I now get the all-red highlighted PRNDS as soon as I switch the key to the first position, which I believe is indicative of limp mode? I'm assuming this will have thrown a code? 
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#13
31st May 2015, 10:23 PM
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When the pumps 'fail' as they do, they still prime, but don't deliver the required pressure, so the engine is starved.
It wouldn't account for any of the electrical gremlins you are seeing, and the chances of pump and electrical issue at the same time is virtually nil. I'd definitely be checking the connecting blocks for bad earth / positive connections as previously suggested. Even if they look good, take them off, clean them up and reseat. Failing that, I'd probably be looking for any signs of water ingress in the plastic plenum chamber under the bonnet at the back passenger side of the engine bay. It houses the gearbox and engine ECU, along with ESP/TC/ABS. Moisture in there can cause all sorts of 'fun'
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#14
1st June 2015, 07:34 AM
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I forgot to mention that on the second breakdown the car was stranded in a car park. Jumping did not start it, but a 5-litre can of fuel did seem to do the trick. The car does have have about 20-30 litres in it now though.
I'll have to do more investigation into the connections then. I took a look, but the negative and ground connections did look ok. Will clean and re-seat them.
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#15
1st June 2015, 03:28 PM
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My bet is on the fuel issue. I had all the warning light issues you have had but that was due to leaving the car for 5 weeks so the battery was low attempting to start the car with the fuel supply issue drained the battery even further causing all manner of warnings to appear.
__________________
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#16
1st June 2015, 03:58 PM
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Yes, I'm wondering if I do have two problems now - the flat battery from attempting to start the car as you say, and the fuelling issue which is the real culprit.
If I stick my ear right over the pump cover when the ignition is turned to the first position, I should definitely be able to hear something, yes? Tried earlier and couldn't hear a thing there or behind the cap.
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#17
5th June 2015, 08:39 AM
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So I've replaced the old battery, which has made starting much easier. I also filled the tank to the brim to test whether the problem only happened below 1/2 a tank as many people have experienced. I managed to go about 70 miles of mixed driving with nothing at all wrong yesterday, and then had a ten minute stretch of the car stalling, being difficult to start, and having a very lump idle. Not sure if it's worth noting that the revs won't drop if my foot is on the pedal, and I can prevent it from stalling by holding it.
My plan this weekend is to look at/reseat/change/clean the following: Fuel pump MAF Fuel filter Vacuum lines Throttle body Anything else I should be looking at?
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#18
7th July 2015, 06:53 PM
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I think I might be close.
The car altogether will not start now, so I ran diagnostics. Got loads of short to ground codes for the injectors which from my research points to the fuel pump relay. Sure enough, when I took the casing off the relay and watched, it's not clicking shut, so the fuel pump is not coming on at all. Now if I push the connection shut, the fuel pump hums away happily, though the car will still not start - is this to be expected or is there something else going on? Relay is on its way either way.
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#19
8th July 2015, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
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#20
8th July 2015, 07:26 AM
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I've not checked, no. Will look at that. Thought perhaps this is a crank sensor issue - the relay won't power up if there's no signal from that will it?
The other interesting thing is that I get the PRNDS light up when the car won't start, and there's an implausible signal code. If and when the car does start, that goes away and there's no transmission problem. Could the TCU be in any way affecting the fuel relay, or is the underlying electrical issue affecting both of them?
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