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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
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I stripped one of the same caliper retaining bolts on mine last week whilst doing discs and pads.
Drill the head off (I used a 10mm drill then stepped up through 1mm increments to 13mm) and then pull the caliper off, the screw came out by hand thereafter. Time consuming but straightforward enough in the end. |
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Drilling the head off is definitely easier...........
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#4
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Ok....I'm with you, Zip all the way on the screaming....Mine will not come out and has broken the sensor inside the hole. Looks like it was a magnetic bar inside a white plastic sheath, inside a black plastic sheath. The Aluminium has exfoliated (Like rust, Aluminium does oxidise, particularly in the presence of water) and trapped the plastic shaft/sheath inside.
I am slowly chiseling away the plastic as i can't think of anything else to do. Maybe remove the drive shaft (*panic*) and push it out.....At this rate i can almost see me needing a new arm !!! Irritatingly my elsawin is showing the old style for my car. Quite odd. sensor seems to be 0 265 006579....Where is the part number ??? Ta, Lee |
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Apparently replacing is a right royal PITA, as the cable runs back to the control unit are a nightmare to trace. Someone on audipages has soldered on new sensors to existing cables....do a search. Hope I never have to touch the little f***ers ever again... ![]() Still got to drill out that caliper bolt though....arrrggh. Zip |
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Hi there,
the Audi pages is here : http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...eshooting.html However that is for the earlier model, without the allen screw. Reading some posts it is quick and easy and others (like mine) are a bitch. It seems the earlier model without the screw is easier. Also he spliced the cable in as it was cheaper than buying a new sensor for the sake of a wire fault. Looking at mine, the connector isn't quite on view in the wheel arch as the older model, but is tucked away under the plastic internal arch. A few plastic nuts and it can be bent back enough to disconnect. Also the cable on the ones with a screw also includes the brake wear sensor cable I have now spent half the day digging & drilling the sensor out. It has not been easy, but is finaly out. I was worried when drilling some of the plastic that i would damage the rotor, doubly so when i saw copper tones, but no, that is how the sensor is made. There is a big magnetic rod (1" long) and a second domed bit (1/2") with copper windings arround. I know this as i dug it all out and finaly the end cap came in one. Checked the rotor and i hadn't got near with my 1/16" drill bit - tiny and slow, but better than a new rotor. I've now plugged it waiting for a new bit from ebay. 4D0 927 803 D - The D is for 18" wheels. There is also an E varient for 20" wheels, so in theory if you swap wheels you should also swap sensors !!! Although i guess if they are all the same size wheel the ABS would be fine as it is comparative speeds ? Audi £152.68, Ebay parts seller £67.49 for a new genuine part, so not too bad i hope - partsdepot_uk Cya, Lee |
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00283 - Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (G47)
Which wheel would be front left then ??? It all depends if your in front or behind the car. I took it to mean drivers side, particularly as thats where it appeared i had a noise. However on fitting the sensor today, The problems have re-occured. *sigh* Interestingly snipping the senor off last night and driving home with just the break wear sensor hooked up fixed the ABS problem. traction control light was on perminantly though, but it did make the car more drivable than with an erroring sensor. |
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