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D3 - Engine Bay Everything under the bonnet

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  #1  
Old 20th October 2015, 10:11 AM
voicey voicey is offline
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So the final thing to do was to reset the service indicator. For my Ferrari work I use a diagnostic tool from Texa with their (expensive) supercar extension. The good thing about this is that the base software covers pretty much every car out there.

IMG_0179 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

Coverage for the Audi is good with most systems listed:

IMG_0180 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

IMG_0181 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

IMG_0182 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

IMG_0183 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

IMG_0184 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

The service reset was easily done...

IMG_0185 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

IMG_0186 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr

I also had a look in the gearbox ECU to make sure I could read off the oil temperature for when I change it.

IMG_0187 by Aldous Voice, on Flickr
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Old 21st October 2015, 05:03 PM
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Burnzybubbles Burnzybubbles is offline
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I also use shell oil, and I find it bloody good oil for a very good price, so much so I picked up 25lts of it for my daily and the misses car, I wouldn't go back to another oil I don't think, when I did the head on mine the the head I took out was spotless from the shell oil, shows the additives are doing its job

I also lowered the service interval to 10k miles fixed servicing and with 8 litres of oil in the sump, 10k is probably nothing for all that oil but it keeps my mind at ease.

That filter looks much dirtier than a 10k old filter even though they do seem to get very dirty on the 3.0tdi's for some reason, and also the fitting of the filter is quite awkward compared to most cars, I have in my ultimate wisdom fitted the air filter and caught the top of it, I now fit the filter Into the top half first then locate it into the bottom half instead of the other way round.


I never fill the fuel filter with oil, I can't remember if it self primes on ignition, but I usually prime it using VCDS, whilst resetting the service light, I suppose at worst case you could suck the fuel through with some kind of vacuum implement, suppose it just saves faffing with diesel in a can.
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Old 23rd October 2015, 04:19 PM
Mechcanico Lee Mechcanico Lee is offline
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Whilst you had the pollen filter out did you manage to get at the water drain outlets at the bottom of the bulkhead , arkward to get at but with a extended blow gun nozzle you can blast all the leaves and debris out .
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Old 24th October 2015, 12:30 PM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechcanico Lee View Post
Whilst you had the pollen filter out did you manage to get at the water drain outlets at the bottom of the bulkhead , arkward to get at but with a extended blow gun nozzle you can blast all the leaves and debris out .
Hi Lee, how many are there? Any tips as to what they are under?
I have looked for them a couple of times to no avail.
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Old 24th October 2015, 01:04 PM
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47p2 47p2 is offline
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There are 2 different lots of drains you need to ensure aren't blocked. Firstly the bulkhead drains

D3 Bulkhead drains

The good news is you can access them from below the vehicle if you can raise the vehicle high enough, the bad news is you will need a ramp, the good news is I have a ramp



I'm sure next you take your car in for an MOT and speak nicely to the examiner they will clean the pipes for you as it only takes a couple of minutes with a long screwdriver or similar tool to prod the crud out.

The good news is nothing needs to be removed to do this from underneath the vehicle. With the vehicle raised locate the gearbox mountings, then looking slightly towards the front of the vehicle on the transmission tunnel you should be able to see the pipes

This is the off-side




The near side looks easier to gain access, but the exhaust gets in the way so a long screwdriver was used to clear the rubbish out.
I then stuck the vacuum cleaner into the end of the pipes and sucked through any crap that was remaining.


After sorting out the bulkhead drains you need to check the Air-con evaporator drains

D3 air-con evaporator drains

These are accessed from behind the carpet at the gearbox tunnel. You will have to remove the foot rest on the driver side by removing the bolt cover and 8mm bolt, the footrest then slides upwards to disengage it from its fixing




Then just pull the carpet down a few inches to gain access to the drain tubes


The passenger side is even easier as there is no footrest. Access is however hampered slightly with some wiring so rather than risk snagging a cable I refitted the drain tube with a jubilee clip as access with the Clic-R clamp pliers was rather limited
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Old 24th October 2015, 01:15 PM
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Burnzybubbles Burnzybubbles is offline
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Bugger had mot today at a mates garage, he even offered me to have a poke around underneath whilst it was in the air, I completely forgot to do the drains
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Old 24th October 2015, 01:42 PM
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I think the bulkhead drains are more prone to blocking than the air-con drains on the D3. Even more so if your car is kept outside and especially at this time of the year with all the leaves blowing off the trees they soon wreak havoc.
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