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#1
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So the final thing to do was to reset the service indicator. For my Ferrari work I use a diagnostic tool from Texa with their (expensive) supercar extension. The good thing about this is that the base software covers pretty much every car out there.
![]() Coverage for the Audi is good with most systems listed: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The service reset was easily done... ![]() ![]() I also had a look in the gearbox ECU to make sure I could read off the oil temperature for when I change it. ![]() |
#2
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I also use shell oil, and I find it bloody good oil for a very good price, so much so I picked up 25lts of it for my daily and the misses car, I wouldn't go back to another oil I don't think, when I did the head on mine the the head I took out was spotless from the shell oil, shows the additives are doing its job
![]() I also lowered the service interval to 10k miles fixed servicing and with 8 litres of oil in the sump, 10k is probably nothing for all that oil but it keeps my mind at ease. That filter looks much dirtier than a 10k old filter even though they do seem to get very dirty on the 3.0tdi's for some reason, and also the fitting of the filter is quite awkward compared to most cars, I have in my ultimate wisdom fitted the air filter and caught the top of it, I now fit the filter Into the top half first then locate it into the bottom half instead of the other way round. I never fill the fuel filter with oil, I can't remember if it self primes on ignition, but I usually prime it using VCDS, whilst resetting the service light, I suppose at worst case you could suck the fuel through with some kind of vacuum implement, suppose it just saves faffing with diesel in a can.
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#3
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Whilst you had the pollen filter out did you manage to get at the water drain outlets at the bottom of the bulkhead , arkward to get at but with a extended blow gun nozzle you can blast all the leaves and debris out .
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#4
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I have looked for them a couple of times to no avail. |
#5
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There are 2 different lots of drains you need to ensure aren't blocked. Firstly the bulkhead drains
D3 Bulkhead drains The good news is you can access them from below the vehicle if you can raise the vehicle high enough, the bad news is you will need a ramp, the good news is I have a ramp ![]() ![]() I'm sure next you take your car in for an MOT and speak nicely to the examiner they will clean the pipes for you as it only takes a couple of minutes with a long screwdriver or similar tool to prod the crud out. The good news is nothing needs to be removed to do this from underneath the vehicle. With the vehicle raised locate the gearbox mountings, then looking slightly towards the front of the vehicle on the transmission tunnel you should be able to see the pipes This is the off-side ![]() ![]() The near side looks easier to gain access, but the exhaust gets in the way so a long screwdriver was used to clear the rubbish out. I then stuck the vacuum cleaner into the end of the pipes and sucked through any crap that was remaining. ![]() After sorting out the bulkhead drains you need to check the Air-con evaporator drains D3 air-con evaporator drains These are accessed from behind the carpet at the gearbox tunnel. You will have to remove the foot rest on the driver side by removing the bolt cover and 8mm bolt, the footrest then slides upwards to disengage it from its fixing ![]() Then just pull the carpet down a few inches to gain access to the drain tubes ![]() The passenger side is even easier as there is no footrest. Access is however hampered slightly with some wiring so rather than risk snagging a cable I refitted the drain tube with a jubilee clip as access with the Clic-R clamp pliers was rather limited ![]()
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. Nite Blue 3.0L SE Quattro |
#6
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Bugger
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#7
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I think the bulkhead drains are more prone to blocking than the air-con drains on the D3. Even more so if your car is kept outside and especially at this time of the year with all the leaves blowing off the trees they soon wreak havoc.
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. Nite Blue 3.0L SE Quattro |
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