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#2
20th October 2015, 03:26 PM
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Turbo sounds likely. Best thing to do is clear the codes and see if they come back as the machine on the photo doesn't seem to show when they started to ocurr and how often. Maybe it was a fluke 6 months ago and therefore a red herring.
Unbeknown to me, I had a blocked DPF when I bought the car. Some buffoon (probably the selling garage) had done a software DPF delete, and then hollowed-out the catalytic converter instead of the DPF. It was fine when I test drove and on the way home from Birmingham to Nottingham. The symptoms were not bad when first setting off first thing with cold engine but progressive loss of power as it warmed up. It also ran hotter, not colder. After a week, the turbo centre gasket blew due to the back pressure so I put a new £800 turbo on thinking that was the problem, still no power. It took a while to find it was the DPF and another £400 later all sorted by removing the DPF and finding it chockablock with soot. Luckily I bought the car for a great price and the dealer went bust a few days later. Maybe your second thermostat beside the autobox is stuck open. There is a thread somewhere, and it's a £20 fix. When you get some air through the radiator it soon pulls the temp down with this stat open. 
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#3
20th October 2015, 04:07 PM
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I understand, I'll follow up on that thermostat problem ASAP as its a simple fix.
To be honest, I'm hoping it's not the turbo as thats going to cost a chunk!! If it's just a controller or DPF needs some work, then that should be fine I'd assume (in cost comparison to an entirely new turbo!) I was going to remove the DPF, but I'd be terribly upset should it not be the issue, and then have wasted that money that could've gone to something else. It's heartbreaking
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#6
21st October 2015, 11:17 AM
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It needs further investigation by someone who understands basic faultfinding procedures and has decent diagnostic tools.
I wouldn't waste your time changing parts until it's been established if you have one or more underlying faults. ElsaWIN suggests there's a procedure for checking the actuator, which involves fitting a new link and confirming the turbo actuator is free and moves to where it's supposed to based on electrical signals received from the control unit. This thread looks very similar in terms of symptoms and fault codes http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...den-Power-Loss It needs to go to a proper VAG specialist with the necessary tools - the VAG tool for testing the control unit is 'Tester for E-positioner -VAS 6395-'
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===SOLD===2002 Audi S8 D2 Final Edition (yes, really) in Avus Silver with purple extended leather===SOLD=== 2011 S5 Sportback in Phantom Black with black Super Sports leather, 9x20s, tech pack high, adaptive xenon plus, intelligent key, memory seats pack, sunroof, B&O, Audi Drive Select & quattro Sports Diff, DAB, parking system plus 2015 VW Golf GTI Performance Pack in Carbon Grey with black Vienna leather, tech pack (Discovery Pro nav & Dynaudio), DCC, factory towbar and retrofit RVC
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#7
21st October 2015, 01:12 PM
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Thanks mate did have a look at that and will try to find a specialist in Birmingham by Friday to have a proper look at it. Central VW Audi told me £72 just to plug it into their machine... so not happy with that.
Anyway... I did some investigating... I found that there are two actuators in my car, one at each side, and perhaps this is where I am hoping for some insight from you guys... On one side, when the engine is off, the actuator is in the "up" position... but the other side is in the "down" position. When the engine is on - the side that was "up" is pulled down, and only goes back up when I rev the car... The other side however which started in the downward position does not move from its "down" position - so it remains there, and even under revving it does not move. Could this be the issue? Or is this merely normal operation?
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