Service (and repairs) time ...

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by moltuae

Firstly, I'm getting a creaking when pressing the brake pedal (whether moving or stationary) that seems to be coming from the o/s/f calliper. Is this common and likely to be a calliper fault?

The pads are probably stuck in the caliper. Pull them out, clean up & grease the sliding surfaces and see what happens.

Originally Posted by moltuae

Secondly, I have an intermittent ABS/ESP issue that is recording the following fault code:

Is this likely to be a faulty G200 sensor and does anyone have any info such as part numbers and location? (I can't find it in any of the 'tech dump' documents).

Possibly although its worth checking if the carpet is damp. Its under the carpet under the passenger seat. I'll try and find a number later.

Originally Posted by moltuae

Thirdly, I've had a whirring noise for a while that's engine-speed related (starts about 2000rpm and gets higher pitched with increasing rpm). The garage had a brief look at it when it first occurred but suggested that I "let it develop". They suspected the bearings in the alternator and/or the PS pump. The noise hasn't got any louder in the past few months but I'd like to get it fixed now. Is there any simple way to determine where the noise is coming from?

If its the P/S pump the sound will change as you rock the steering. If the noise doesn't change with steering its more likely to be one of the rollers on the front end rather than the alternator. There's an idler, the main tensioner and the viscous fan which can all get noisy. I'd pop the belt off (put the front end in service position) and spin them all by hand and see if any are rough or noisy.

Originally Posted by moltuae

Lastly, I seem to have a bit of front bumper droop. I noticed a while ago that it didn't seem to look quite right. Studying the recent Carding Shed photos (see attached), using Jim's car for comparison, there's clearly a gap that shouldn't be there. Has it been refitted incorrectly or is there some way to adjust it?

The two main bumper supports have threaded inserts in them to adjust the height of the bumper, but their position relative to the car is lost whenever you pull the front end off so they usually need adjusting every time it comes apart. If you're putting it in service position to look at the accessory drive then it can all be adjusted when it goes back together. Its designed to be highly adjustable so the factory can get the front end perfect, but its a right pain to get it back in the right place again every time it has any major work done!

[moltuae]

Brilliant!

Thanks very much MJ!

[Goran]

My breaks creak a bit too, I suspect the front calipers, even though they were re-conditioned a couple of years ago. No ill effect so far. Although I will try re-greasing them too as MJ suggests.

[MikkiJayne]

The S8 I have in at the moment came in to the workshop with the brakes almost on fire. Turns out the inner pads were jammed solid in the calipers and only the outer pad was moving, caused by rust on the edge of the pad backing plate, plus dirt and brake dust building up on the caliper. The calipers on this one were reconditioned a couple of years ago, but the Brembos are a flawed design in that regard as the clearances are so tight. I pull the pads and clean everything up every oil change which stops them getting stuck

(I also pull and re-grease the front strut pinch bolt every oil change too )

[David's8]

MJ is always spot on with advice. The front caliper creakiness is (was, in my case) associated with the pads jamming in the stainless steel pad guides held in place on the aluminium caliper block by torx headed screw which is impossible(?) to remove without splitting the block. The corrosion between the s/steel and aluminium forces the guide outer edges which then clamp on the pads. You can do a certain amount of cleaning out the corrosion with the calipers removed using emery paper etc but its difficult to get the guides to resume their former shape. You can, of course, file down the edges of the pads so that they can fit but its not really a solution. Thats the point at which I got mine refurbished.
I suggest you test the temperature of the discs after a run to see if there is any overheating but its a certainty that wthout some work, it will develop into overheating pads/discs at some point in the near future.

[Goran]

Thanks, definitely need to look into it then. I often check the disc temperature after a drive after one of the rears jammed on my previous S8. On this one so far no excess heat, just creaking. I guess the ultimate solution is a front brake upgrade lol.

[27litres]

Originally Posted by Goran

I guess the ultimate solution is a front brake upgrade lol.

There is a simple upgrade solution for S8's that is bolt on from what I've read and replaces the Bembos with an OEM 4 pot caliper - D3 360mm discs and calipers.
Min wheel size is 18", not that that's a problem for S8's...

[sarg]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

The S8 I have in at the moment came in to the workshop with the brakes almost on fire. Turns out the inner pads were jammed solid in the calipers and only the outer pad was moving, caused by rust on the edge of the pad backing plate, plus dirt and brake dust building up on the caliper. The calipers on this one were reconditioned a couple of years ago, but the Brembos are a flawed design in that regard as the clearances are so tight. I pull the pads and clean everything up every oil change which stops them getting stuck

(I also pull and re-grease the front strut pinch bolt every oil change too )

MJ, could this be causing the brake smell and heat I described?

[MikkiJayne]

That was top suspect, but they aren't binding - I checked that.

[moltuae]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Possibly although its worth checking if the carpet is damp. Its under the carpet under the passenger seat. I'll try and find a number later.

The carpets are bone dry now (and have been for a long time) but, like most D2 owners, I have had one or two incidences of blocked drains and water ingress over the years, so it's probably worth opening it up and giving it a clean-up and check over. That is if I can find it ...

I've just had a quick look under the seat. There seems to be something under the carpet near where the wiring loom enters. I assume that the seat and numerous bits of trim need to be removed to get to it (without resorting to slashing the carpet open)?

Originally Posted by David's8

The front caliper creakiness is (was, in my case) associated with the pads jamming in the stainless steel pad guides held in place on the aluminium caliper block by torx headed screw which is impossible(?) to remove without splitting the block. The corrosion between the s/steel and aluminium forces the guide outer edges which then clamp on the pads. You can do a certain amount of cleaning out the corrosion with the calipers removed using emery paper etc but its difficult to get the guides to resume their former shape. You can, of course, file down the edges of the pads so that they can fit but its not really a solution. Thats the point at which I got mine refurbished.
I suggest you test the temperature of the discs after a run to see if there is any overheating but its a certainty that wthout some work, it will develop into overheating pads/discs at some point in the near future.

Thanks David

I'll ask the garage to take a look at them and see what they think. Who refurbished your callipers and what's the general consensus for the best place(s) now? I seem to remember there was some mixed experiences/reviews with some of the refurbishers. Is there one particular refurbisher who does a consistently good job?

And is there a substantial difference in price between refurbished and new (OEM)?