![]() |
|
D2 - Transmission Gearboxes, diffs, drive shafts. |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools
![]() |
Display Modes
![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
my local mechanic [ audi fan but not A8 or auto ] doesn't have a slurpy machine but recommends draining overnight to get as much out as possible , fill up and give it a run for half an hour then drain again , change filter and top up again ensuring correct temperature /fill level
maybe not perfect but with 75% or so fresh ATF gives a reasonable clean box , and using the correct AG52 mannol available in bulk from germany at a reasonable price [ multitronic/steptronic/ tiptronic ] not too expensive don't forget , getting the level absolutely correct is critical wonder if mikki could set up to do this , it's a long way to glasgow for us southerners! |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Just in case, this is the detailed procedure, Cycling through the gears and checking temps is, apparently, key to getting it right.
__________________
2002 D2 S8 – Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18” Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The fluctuation in RPM is a common characteristic of the 5HP gearboxes and is supposedly down to the torque converter - a couple of American transmission specialists offer a modified converter to solve it. My S8 does it too at ~1800rpm, just before the converter clutch locks up. Its highly annoying but I just put it in S if it bothers me. Its curious this started for you after a fluid change though. Febi 29738 is the correct specification.
I still haven't figured out why some gearboxes are just fine after a fluid change and some aren't. I have a feeling it could be down to the re-filling period when the level is some 3-litres short due to the stupid design of the filling solution, although I couldn't say what specifically gets upset during that time. I was going to contrive a device which could get the full load of oil in with the engine stopped so that it didn't have this (albeit short) period of running low on oil, but I've been working on the manual swap instead ![]() The suggestion to refill, run it for a bit then drain and refill again is good, however since the gearbox has to be at 40° to set the level it would be an overnight job so that it could cool down. Still, there are a couple of nice hotels near the workshop ![]() |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
my methodology is leave on the ramp overnight first thing in the morning fill before lunch half hour drive drain again during 2 hour french lunch at local restaurant [ menu de jour !] refill at correct temperature in approved manner [ I hope my £10 temperature gun from amazon is accurate enough , works well on brake disc temperatures ] |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Its about 3 litres short between when you fill it with the engine off and then top it up with the engine running as it comes up to temperature. Its only a few minutes with it idling, but I still don't like it since if you drove it 3 litres short it would kill the box in pretty short order.
I've never checked to see how long it takes to cool down tbh. If 2 hours will do it then it is practical to flush like that ![]() |
![]() |
|
|