break wear indicator bypass D2 FL

[MikkiJayne]

They aren't related electrically, but the ABS sensor cable assembly provides the wiring between the caliper and the car.



Most often its corrosion on the connectors of the pad wear connector. Cleaning them up with a tiny round file and tweaking them with a tiny screwdriver often helps. Ditto the body harness connector. A squirt of WD40 stops them corroding again.

[lebesset]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

They aren't related electrically, but the ABS sensor cable assembly provides the wiring between the caliper and the car.



Most often its corrosion on the connectors of the pad wear connector. Cleaning them up with a tiny round file and tweaking them with a tiny screwdriver often helps. Ditto the body harness connector. A squirt of WD40 stops them corroding again.

wow ! I had no idea ! so in effect there is a there is a sub harness with the ABS and pad wear wires running through ; in case I can't cure the problem by cleaning up the pad wear connector where do I find the body harness connector to clean it up ?

if that doesn't work presumably our sponsors could find me a replacement sub harness !

[MikkiJayne]

The body harness connector is behind the front portion of the wheel arch liner.

A8parts may have some sensors in stock but it can be a pretty unpleasant job to change them. Either they just come straight out, or they are seized in place and the bolt snaps in the hub. Tbh if it came to it, I'd hard-wire out the pad sensor before I changed an ABS sensor to cure a pad sensor issue.

[lebesset]

well followed instructions as per MJ....spent more time getting out the wheel arch liners than fiddling with the wiring ; no joy

so short circuited each side in turn to get a circuit ; still no joy...I think the wiring colours are green and yellow one side black and yellow the other

have I misunderstood what you meant by hard wired mikki ? I tested the new pads for continuity on a belt and braces principle

[ainarssems]

Hardwire behind dash.

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by lebesset

so short circuited each side in turn to get a circuit ; still no joy...I think the wiring colours are green and yellow one side black and yellow the other

Did you do one side at a time? Its a single loop from the cluster so you need to short both sides at the same time to get the light out.

[lebesset]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Did you do one side at a time? Its a single loop from the cluster so you need to short both sides at the same time to get the light out.

tried that .....to no avail !

HOWEVER

last year I decided to have a go to get rid of the light using the method suggested by ainarrsems .read the sticky , in the end found the correct wire to short out but couldn't undo the multiplug to find the correct wire to earth on .... being nervous of doing the wrong thing I applied my usual methodology of ...if at first you don't succeed ...give up [ not an MOT failure last year ]
so this year with the MOT coming up started again [ force majeure ] and decided to try and find the fault and solve my problem
as you can see mikki has led me through the most likely problems , but to no avail , as stated

so , getting desperate I decide to have another go at the behind the instrument method , still couldn't open the multiplug , so scotchlocked a piece of thin stranded wire to the brown /black wire as stated in the sticky and earthed it to the chassis

VOILA

[rory_pamphilon]

Following this post as I too have constant brake pad warning indicators on, have got quite used to it to be honest but if the MOT is going to start checking it I will have to do something about it.

Just out of curiousity, is the MOT going to test its function or just whether the warning light is on or not? i.e. if the light is off, is that an instant pass on that part or will they simulate a worn break pad check to see if the light functions ok?