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  #1  
Old 31st March 2019, 12:52 PM
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tonupkid tonupkid is offline
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Great to see how you are turning back the clock (metaphorically) on Jim's car MJ. Excellent tread.
Jim, I bet you're looking forward to getting back into it again. I know I would be.
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Old 31st March 2019, 03:17 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Mark, I just checked if they fit anything else and they are also used in the D3 so we should have supply for another 5 years in theory.
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Old 31st March 2019, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
Mark, I just checked if they fit anything else and they are also used in the D3 so we should have supply for another 5 years in theory.
Great That's good to know.
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  #4  
Old 31st March 2019, 06:16 PM
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The_Laird The_Laird is offline
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After my bad experiences of the local Audi indy people in my (relatively) new neck of the woods, it is wonderfully reassuring to have my car in MJ’s capable hands. Well worth the 4 hour drive and a couple of weeks or so without a car. And reading a ‘what’s in the workshop’ write up on your own car is brillaintly exciting!

MJ made me very welcome and we did a reccy with the car on the lift, so there are a couple of other jobs to be done as a result. And I’ll be back at a later date for a rear subframe rebuild.

And as an added bonus, I had a short trip in MJ’s car when she gave me a lift to a services to meet up with a friend for a lift home. Even from the passenger seat, you can tell how ‘tight’ MJ’s car is - it’s like a brand new car (which it pretty much is!). And the interior is a beautiful place to be - the red leather and black trim is a very pleasing combination.

I can’t wait for the next post - thanks MJ!
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Planned mods: auto-dimming rear view mirror, dash cam (as steamship's), fit the ski hatch, refit philips drl's (or maybe not - nope, definitely not - horrible botch!).
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  #5  
Old 31st March 2019, 08:30 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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This morning's activities:



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  #6  
Old 31st March 2019, 09:12 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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This afternoon was spent removing engine parts and prepping it for cleaning

I think this is where most of the gunge on the lower half of the engine came from



Attached to the bracket for the engine stand



On the stand



Locking tools in







Started taking the timing gear off. This is a new one This is the tensioner roller and you can just see that there is a threaded insert stuck on the bolt. The threaded insert should have stayed in the engine but it appears the thread of the bolt is a bit mashed so it took the insert out with it. This is going to be 'interesting' to repair...



Whoever gorrilla'd the tensioner bolt apparently attacked the cam sprockets with a lump hammer too





Drained the remaining coolant from the block. Its a good sign that both drains are clear. Oil cooler drain first



passenger side drain - this drain is almost always blocked, but on this engine it runs free



The vac hoses are completely perished so I'll replace those



I left the oil draining overnight, ready for tomorrow

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  #7  
Old 1st April 2019, 08:40 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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4 hours of cleaning...

I pulled the oil cooler housing off. The plastic pipe had already cracked. That's getting replaced with an aluminium one.



Yeuch





I really don't know why these engines collect sand between the inlet manifold and the head. They all have it, and one has to be extremely careful when taking the manifold off to not get any down the inlet ports



Flange cleaned up and the inlet ports protected



There was evidence of coolant leakage down the back of the block so I pulled the water pipes off the back of the heads. Just as well I did since one o-ring had turned to fluff and the other was already leaking.





Cleaned up the valley



Breather cover removed - the gasket on this is the source of all the gunge in the valley and also all the oil down the back of the block. There's a little drain hole on the left of the pic where everything that leaks from here escapes down in to the bellhousing



More grub





2 gallons of degreaser later...









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  #8  
Old 6th April 2019, 04:04 PM
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Goran Goran is offline
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Also I believe nylon pads get brittle with age in a hot engine oil environment. There are newer type nylons such as Stanyl 46 or Stanyl Diablo which last longer before getting brittle in engine oil. I asked a couple of companies how much it would cost to make a copy of our pads in one of these newer nylons but their minimum order is something like 10,000 units
Another option could be to have replica pads machined out of a block of one of these new nylons, but machining costs are not cheap either.

If there is a way to repair old tensioner units that would be amazing. Over £1000 for a pair of new units is a bit much.
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