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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
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#1
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I looked into galvanising when I had my subframes replaced a while ago but decided to go with a coating of POR-15 instead.
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Mark ------------------------------------------------------ 2002 FE S8 Ebony Black Pearl ------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------ Cars Owned: The Tesla Era: 2020 Model S Performance Ludicrous+ (present) (Black, with all black premium interior and carbon fibre décor, 21" sonic carbon twin turbine wheels and FSD capability) The Audi Era: '97 A8 4.2 (Ming Blue) --> '96 A8 4.2 QS (Dark Green) --> '02 FE S8 (present) The Citroen Era: '84 BX 1.6 RS --> '89 BX 1.9 DTR Turbo --> '94 XM 2.0L Turbo --> '96 XM 2.0L Turbo Exclusive --> '00 Xantia Activa 2.0L Turbo The Banger Era: '76 1.2L Lada VAZ-2101 (Ruski Fiat 124) --> '80 1.7L Morris Ital HL, finished in Ermine White and Rust |
#2
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I really like the idea of galvanising the subframes. I managed to get hold of a pair of very good condition front and rear subframes last year. Both have very little corrosion and are ideal for galvanising.
I managed to get hold of a full set of bushes actually quite easily. The fronts (8 of them) from Audi main dealer and the rears (4 needed but 2 different part numbers) from ECS Tuning in the US. Except to pay good money for them though. I think mine were around £700 for them all. Removing the old bushes is also a challenge. Especially the front ones as they cannot simply be pushed through. I managed to get hold of the genuine Audi tools for removing the bushes but I still had to do some improvising. When I get done with my rear suspension refurb in the spring I'll start to look at getting the frames galvanised or some other suitable coating. I want something that involves "dipping" as the frames are hollow and painting the inside would be difficult.
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Audi S8 D2 2002 88k mls Ebony pearl effect black. Grey interior. |
#3
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#4
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According to my info the pn for the bush is 4D0399415K and its shared between phaeton and found lots of them on ebay?
My plan was to buy the 2 subframes from forum sponsors then get them galvanised and then give it to my mechanic, this would avoid the car being in bits for probably weeks. |
#5
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These are the 2 subframes I bought as spares. As you can see they are in pretty good condition already. I was in no rush so I held out until I found some that came from a dry climate.
I can't remember where the front one came from but it was somewhere in Europe. The rear came from southern Italy, a nice dry climate. All the UK ones I looked at seemed pretty rough.
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Audi S8 D2 2002 88k mls Ebony pearl effect black. Grey interior. |
#6
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Wow thats a good tip, to buy some from a warm country. Those look like they were taken off a 3 year old car or less!
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#7
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Tread carefully with hot dip galvo, it's hot, really hot and can cause deformation. I'm fairly familiar with the sub frames can from memory they have holes everywhere and that's good as it'll explode if there are any pockets. Also anywhere that is a tight fit before will be tighter after dipping, it's quite a thick coating.
Lastly choose your galveniser wisely, some are rough even for ships, Crediton are OK depending on when they last changed it out as they are a bit agricultural toward the end it can be lumpy and thick. We would send stuff to Liverpool from Devon
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1996 A8 4.2 QS. Bose, Solar roof, um...um... rally sport towbar. Now gone to a new home as the Traders 8. Bright yellow bus o love. |
#8
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The subframe will probably need dipping in something to strip it in the first place to get all the paint off the inside too. Sandblasting won't work for that, and I suspect molten zinc may not respond well to paint. I'm not sure what sort of hellacious paint stripper you'd need to get the factory coating off because its amazingly tough. Except where its rusty ![]() |
#9
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I'm a fan of POR15 too. I'm planning on painting the '65 Chev frame with it eventually. Very tough and it can be sprayed or brushed depending on preference.
You can also get zinc rich primers such as Galmet, for addition corrosion resistance. Also not a fan of powder coating. It has one significant flaw, once it chips, it may as well not be there as far as corrosion is concerned! If you're concerned about the heat, instead of hot dipped galvanising, you could use a sacrificial annode? Works for bridges and ships (and one fancy looking opera house in Sydney).
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Cheers Marty ____________________ Current: 2001 Audi S8 - Brilliant Black with Black interior, C5 RS6 rims (whenever I actually put them on...), Solar Sunroof, Tinted side and rear glass, RNS-D, Grom, Bose, clunky old phone in arm rest! 2002 Audi S8 - Project Replacement head coming arrived ![]() Silver with Black interior. All features as the '01, with the 'S' mode auto shifter. Dodgey rear tint (need to find a way to get rid of that). Family: 2009 Volvo XC90 V8 R Design - has a louder more obnoxious exhaust than the S8, sounds great! Love this thing - Q7 was double the price, and certainly not double the car! Sold: 1997 Audi A4 - Hamilton's Club Sport, Achat Grey (will miss the old girl) |
#10
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As it happens I once used to work as an apprentice in an aerospace electroplating company and once in a while we would get company's boses mates ask for their jag suspension parts to be cadmium plated.
We would first degrease them, then sand blast, then rinse and then leave in highly concentrated hydrochloric acid for 10 minutes (the stuff was so strong it would go through you if it dripped onto your body) and then it would get plated. Hot dip galvanising is a totally different process but preparation should be the same. I rang about for a few quotes and the cheapest I got was £900 for the single front subframe which is nuts! I will ask my contacts in Poland maybe they can find a place that does it really cheap, but already this idea is starting to look very expensive and long winded. |
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