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| D2 - Fuel and Exhausts Everything to do with getting fuel into the engine, and fumes back out again |
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#11
7th June 2020, 08:45 PM
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Thats a crimp clamp the same as CV boots use, not a clic-R. It needs a slightly more specialist tool, but a worm-drive hose clamp will work fine.
A smear of engine oil or petroleum jelly will work on the o-ring. The large seal for the top of the tank should have a lip at the top, like an upside-down top hat. Oh, the plastic pipe is the return I think, which should just be tucked in to the fuel pump housing. (edit - don't use petroleum jelly on rubber. That was terrible advice and is retracted!) Last edited by MikkiJayne; 9th November 2020 at 09:54 AM. 
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#12
7th June 2020, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
 At least I only said "looks like".  Quote:
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions and extended leather. Ski hatch retrofit. Aftermarket reversing camera. DVB-T and XCarlink now removed as redundant. 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation".  (Even rarer than a D2 S8!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!  Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. Agate Grey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, Tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon. Added Auto-dim mirror, Leather seats, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! 
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#13
7th June 2020, 11:48 PM
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I feel like a idiot
 because I didn't look on the hose clamp itself as the brand name and size is engraved on it. The name and size on the clamp is Oetiker and 15.3. With this I did a google search and the actual name of this is called a ear clamp and you don't need a special tool to install them. The tool that I bought is a end cutting pliers. Tomorrow I will stop at the hardware store to see if they have this ear clamp in stock as I need to buy a couple more. Here is a couple of links for the ear clamps and end cutting pliers for reference.
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#14
8th June 2020, 05:56 PM
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The hardware store that I went to didn't have them in stock and was told it'll be 2 - 3 to get them in. So I didn't order them as they are closed on the weekend and they are closed when I get back in town from work when it would come in if I had them order it. I just ordered them online instead. So I'll have to wait some more before I can finish this fuel pump job.
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#15
9th June 2020, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
https://smile.amazon.com/Dow-Corning...1718112&sr=8-6
__________________
-Andrew 1967 Bus 1980 Rabbit Pickup 1992 Corrado 2001 S8 2010 Jetta TDI Cup Edition
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#16
9th June 2020, 04:50 PM
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I wouldn't want to put silicone anywhere near the fuel system, and especially not inside the tank. It will do bad things to the O2 sensors amongst other things. Something fuel-soluble is best in this application
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#17
9th June 2020, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
__________________
-Andrew 1967 Bus 1980 Rabbit Pickup 1992 Corrado 2001 S8 2010 Jetta TDI Cup Edition
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#18
9th June 2020, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
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#19
9th June 2020, 07:39 PM
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I would use oil since oil and fuel are basically the same thing. A tiny smear of oil on the o-ring will safely dissolve in to the fuel and be burnt off in normal combustion.
Say a fingertip of oil on the o-ring is 1ml, dissolved in to half a tank of fuel thats a ratio of 50,000:1 which is totally insignificant, similar to what is coming in as vapour from the crankcase breather.
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