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| D2 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
25th July 2020, 01:21 PM
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How to change valve block in the car
How to change valve block in the car:
You are doing this at your own risk. Move your seat like this:  DISCONNECT THE BATTERY Use your fingers to pull out the zip from the side of the back rest and cut the staple holding both sites together, then undo the zip:  Carefully pull the center piece up. There are two green connectors hidden at either end, diconnect them:  There is another black cable which prevents the center padded piece from going up, follow it up with your hand until you find the connector disconnect it, then you can pull it out by moving it to either side of the seat. Then carefully lift up the center piece and support it with something so that it doesnt come down, I used a screw driver:  Then remove the right hand side bolster padding by bending the metal tabs out with a flat head screw driver. I think there's 6 of them including one at the very bottom of the back rest.  There will be another, shorterter zip at the very bottom of the bolster, undo it the same way you did the first one (no pic) Then carefully 'peel off' as much leather as you can, and lift up the foam underneath it which will reveal a sort of a leather pouch, thats where the pump motor and pressure sensors are, follow the tubes coming out of it and you will find the valve block:  Once you located the valve block, brake it off its mounting bracket (mine was already broken off) its the only way to do it without removing the seats. Then swap the old valve block for the bmw one:  Put everything back the way it was. I used some tape just to hold it together as i was putting the seat back together:  And put the seat back together, sewing the zips you opened with a needle like this: 
Last edited by Ronin; 25th July 2020 at 01:24 PM. 
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#2
25th July 2020, 05:09 PM
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Excellent information; makes it look eminently do-able now.
 You've also just given me an idea; I'll wiggle my little endoscopic camera in and have a look at that fracture zone on my faulty seats, just to verify it's the actual problem. 
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions and extended leather. Ski hatch retrofit. Aftermarket reversing camera. DVB-T and XCarlink now removed as redundant. 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation".  (Even rarer than a D2 S8!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!  Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. Agate Grey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, Tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon. Added Auto-dim mirror, Leather seats, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! 
Last edited by HPsauce; 25th July 2020 at 05:13 PM.
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#3
18th February 2021, 04:25 PM
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Update - now the pump/compressor has failed.
And yes, you guessed it, a compressor from BMW e60 with 4 pistons instead of 2 like in D2 fits plug and play and works much faster and quieter. Part code: BMW 7039191.
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Hybrid Mode
