My Murple

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by Stromaluski

Dimensions so I can see if I can have one made? Wonder if a 3D printed one would be strong enough...

Ooh now you're asking! I made it the right size with the engine in front of me. I have no idea what size that actually is!

No way a 3D printed piece would be strong enough - the seal takes a lot of force to get in. Thwacking with a rubber mallet sort of force. Aluminium or brass is the way to go. I'll measure it for you

[David's8]

Is it the same as the "Thrust Piece" (Audi tool part T40007) featured in the Service Manual?

[MikkiJayne]

Interesting - that is designed to push the seal in without the bushing. Something I have not enjoyed. Mine is the opposite way round to that tool and pushes both in together.

[MikkiJayne]

The timing belt arrived today, which was nice. I'm using a Gates belt here as they're an OEM for this sort of thing.



Craig who does tig welding also does powdercoating as part of his wheel refurbishment business (The Ally Cat in Crediton). I have been quite set against powdercoating in the past because of its tendency to split along sharp edge, however Craig being a perfectionist like myself has learned how to tune the setup of the kit to avoid this problem. As he's providing a boutique service, rather than maximum throughput for minimum cost like most such establishments, he can spend the time to get it right which I am more than happy to pay for I'm very cautious about painting the inside of sumps as not much can withstand 180 degree oil, and loose sheets of paint can easily clog up the oil pump. In this instance, Craig blasted and coated the outside but didn't touch the factory coating on the inside.

Tl;dr - I had the sump powdercoated satin black It came out rather smart, and saved me a ton of time painting it.



This really is the only way to successfully seal these things properly - take the engine out and flip it over With the engine in the car there is guaranteed to be a drip of oil somewhere which will ruin the sealant, no matter how much you clean it. I've not bothered cleaning the carbon deposits in here, because they're everywhere in the bottom end so it would be for visual effect only. If any of this drops off it'll get captured by the filter anyway.



All the bolts in, tighten in a diagonal pattern to avoid distorting the pan



These are for the oil sensor and need sealant on the threads. Its surprisingly common for replacement sensors to be fitted without sealant on the bolts, and then of course they leak everywhere.



A nice, mostly even bead of sealant once the sump is torqued. Mostly.



I dislike the bare paper oil filters because you can't fill them up after an oil change, meaning the engine has to move 1/2 a litre of oil at least before the bearings see any lubrication. Except you can pre-fill when its upside down



Now the sump is on and the engine is staying the right way up the water pipes can go back on. These don't clear the engine stand so I can't flip it with them attached.



Knock sensor attached



The next big thing I'm waiting on is the gaskets for the inlet manifold so I can put that back on, then the engine is almost complete again and I can make a start on the gearbox.

[David's8]

Nice, neat work again MJ

[tc4332]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Interesting - that is designed to push the seal in without the bushing. Something I have not enjoyed. Mine is the opposite way round to that tool and pushes both in together.

This highlights the difference between the way different people view a problem.

1. The Germanic follow the laid down plan meticulously.
2. The let us look at this properly way of a beautiful and clever young English magician.