WITW - The PF Exxon Valdez!

[MikkiJayne]

Yours is FL2 so mild cleaners only in the engine bay. Yes, I also use the TPS brake cleaner on the mechanical bits like engine and gearbox. I buy it in 5 litre cans and use it in a spray bottle as it goes much further for the same money than the 400ml aerosol which is gone in seconds.

[Goran]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Yours is FL2 so mild cleaners only in the engine bay. Yes, I also use the TPS brake cleaner on the mechanical bits like engine and gearbox. I buy it in 5 litre cans and use it in a spray bottle as it goes much further for the same money than the 400ml aerosol which is gone in seconds.

Thanks Mikki! Great advice as always!
I’ll be very careful in that case, that explains why the Halfords one attacked the paint so easily.

[MikkiJayne]

As usual the fuel line clamps have rusted away so these will be replaced





Original fuel filter?



The fuel line rubbers will be soaked overnight in Bilt Hamber Korrosol to remove the embedded rust



Purple gloop



I put something back in!



The connector for the servotronic solenoid is easily accessible, despite Audi's assertion that they used the ridiculously fragile trailing cable to make it possible to install the rack.



Connector harness attached



I run the cable over the top of the rack out of the way, rather than underneath like the factory did where it could get cooked by the exhaust



This plastic nut used to go on the stud which is now replaced by an M6 rivnut, so I screwed some M6 threaded bar in to it to make a hybrid bolt



Works perfectly

[MikkiJayne]

The aux belt tensioner in the PF is part of the timing belt cover. Its a complicated affair which runs on a pair of needle roller bearings which I had to remove to get it powdercoated



Two new bearings, and I made a tool to press them in to place



One of the bearings fitted



The tensioner, complete with massive spring just waiting to go sproing and break something / someone



Tensioner arm



Assembled view from the back.



I managed to put it together without scratching anything or the spring going sproing. I also fitted a new fan pulley bearing. I need this to finish the timing belt reassembly as the crank pulley locking tool fits in to the slot at the bottom of the cover



Fuel line rubber doodads now free of rust



They'll soak in rubber care solution overnight

[MikkiJayne]

I put the inside of the inlet manifold back in and noted that this arrangement of vacuum pipes is very silly indeed, especially since it just flaps about.



Much better I've also tucked the vacuum reservoir hose under the inlet manifold and out the back, instead of it dangling over the top of the PS pump. More on that later.



I finished off the timing belt setup and got the tensioners correct and the locking tools removed. Next job is to visit the local tractor workshop and see if they have a torque wrench that goes to 450Nm so I can do the crank pulley bolt



I couldn't put the old rotten rubber seals on the beautifully powdercoated covers, so even though the price of new seals is £ it just had to be done



Covers back on, and I'm pretty pleased with how smart they look





Manky rotten rubber here would just have let the whole thing down

[pete-p]

Those covers are just lovely so much nicer than the plastic ones on the 40v.

[Audifan]

Originally Posted by pete-p

Those covers are just lovely so much nicer than the plastic ones on the 40v.

I totally agree.

Just wondering, will the 32v timing belt covers fit on the 40v engines?

[strummagnet]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Manky rotten rubber here would just have let the whole thing down

Better make sure the bonnet brackets and hinges are in good working order, predicting the new owner over using them showing off that engine.

[MikkiJayne]

Put the throttle body back on



This bizarrely complicated mess of plumbing is all for the brake vacuum, and oddly it just flaps about, which causes the bottom joint to fail and allow air past the throttle body which will cause misfires and poor running. The original one was quite badly perished at the bottom.



I had a spare set of pipes so put those on instead and gave the bottom joint some extra support with some adhesive-lined heatshrink



Then drilled a hole in the upper part of the intake tube (which is mostly solid apart from a couple of holes for the idle valve) and tapped it to M6



and then made a P-clip to support the pipework. Its nice and solid now so no more flapping about