WITW - Barn-find Final Edition

[MikkiJayne]

It didn't occur to me to do it any other way tbh, since I had an OE harness to use, and there's no reverse light signal up in the roof. The headlining was already down from doing the dents so actually it was pretty easy.

The headlining is held in above the rear doors with some extremely fragile clips which appear to be made from some sort of resin. Its almost impossible to get them out without them either shattering, or breaking off the headlining. So of course I 3D printed some new ones.



Hot-glued on to the headlining



Fitting a headlining single-handed is not the easiest of tasks so I contrived an arrangement to hold the front of it up in the air while I put the rear up



The printed clips worked perfectly



Headlining in place



I had a dig through my oddly plentiful collection of platinum bits and picked out the best bits, and then cleaned them all up which is considerably easier on the bench than in the car!



New single-use pillar trim clips



Driver's side A-pillar back in place. I replaced the door seal too since that was quite scruffy.

[HPsauce]

Amazing work as ever.
Personally, having fitted auto-dim mirrors in a number of cars over the years I find the "un-dim in reverse" totally irrelevant so ignored it every time, the last being on my PF S8, but serious brownie points for doing it right!

I guess the nearest reverse signal is the long (red/blue?) wire that runs all the way from (I don't know where) via the F125 then the RNS to the back of the car, so yes hardly convenient.

As for dimming mirrors being difficult to get, is it the units, wiring (surely you can fix that) or the actual mirrors glass that is the problem?
My current S8 was fitted with them at the factory but by the time I got it had standard external glass. I found a nearside glass fairly easily but my drivers side is actually a US nearside one, complete with inane printed warnings!

[pete-p]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

That's a lot of work for dimming mirror. Must be someone who is happy to pay extra for close to OEM integration. Would have been easier just to tap in wires by the sunroof control/interior lights

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Amazing work as ever.
Personally, having fitted auto-dim mirrors in a number of cars over the years I find the "un-dim in reverse" totally irrelevant so ignored it every time, the last being on my PF S8, but serious brownie points for doing it right!

I guess the nearest reverse signal is the long (red/blue?) wire that runs all the way from (I don't know where) via the F125 then the RNS to the back of the car, so yes hardly convenient.

I was going to say the same thing. I guess if it's already mostly apart it's not too much extra to do it right.

[tintin]

I hope the heater for your workshop is still working this week!

[MikkiJayne]

I haven't had to use it yet this winter. Today is the first day the temperature is much below 10c (3 this morning), and I'm busy enough not to notice at the moment. It may be needed if it stays like this, but I have plenty of kerosene if it is

[strummagnet]

Headlining etc looking spotless!!

Is there a guide to what cleaners to use and how to clean these? also can they be done in situ? My '8's headlining is a little grubby in places and I just dont have the time / faith in my own abilities to remove it....

[MikkiJayne]

I use Quantum upholstery cleaner from TPS, partly because it smells of bakewell tart instead of vomit and hospitals like most of them do, but also because its very effective.

For the actual headlining I'll mist it on and wipe off very gently with a freshly washed microfibre as the foam in the headlining is quite delicate so any sort of pressure will ruin it. The pillar trims are much more robust and can take some light agitation with a nailbrush and then a wipe with a microfibre will lift most dirt out. Again, mist it on rather than soaking as the glue could come undone. Same goes for the rear deck.

Its obviously much easier on the bench, but I wouldn't take one out just to clean it as there is a high risk of damage.

[MikkiJayne]

I gave all the leather another coat of leather care and then started putting it back in the car





While the rear door cards were off I swapped the triangles for some nicer ones





Mike came over today and helped me finish off the interior





Now thats all done, time for the mechanical stuff!



Not updated the totals for a bit:

240 hours, £3412

Parts used:

PS hoses (refurb, £200)
PS hose brackets (used)
NSF upper rear arm (used)
NSF lower rear arm (used)
NSF wheel bearing (used)
CV boot (£12)
Suspension brace (used)
Boot lid (£150)
FE wheels (£500)
Window motor (£50)
Headlight level arm joints (£15)
Radiator (£300)
Belt idlers (used)
Accessory belt & idlers (used)
Snub mount (£60)
Air filter (£6)
Wiper mechanism & motor (£120)
Air box trim (£10)
Intake duct (£10)
Bumper (£200)
F125 (£1)
Exhaust clamps (£30)
Boot grommets (£15)
Brake fluid (£20)
Wiper trim (£50)
Platinum carpet (£25)
Central locking pump (£60)
Lateral Acceleration Sensor (£20)
N/S seat belt (£18)
Potions and microfibres (£120)
Wiper blades (£30)
Bosch S3 019 battery (£85)
Bosch lambda sensors 2x (£120)
Parking sensors 2x (£40)
SAI removal plates + map (£65)
Fuel pump (£140)
Paint correction (£600)
Dent removal (£180)
Headlining & interior trim (used)
Aluminium roof trim 2x (£160)

[strummagnet]

Natty little hole under the passenger armrest

[MikkiJayne]

That's for the phone cable which plugs in to the block under the armrests. Or, used to anyway. Not a lot of use these days, since most modern phones don't fit in to the armrests.