itted aftermarket HID's - strange fault now!

[radovr6]

ok, after a bit more trial and error investigating it seems the ballasts are drawing more current on start up and for some reason it freezes the instrument cluster display,

gonna have a look at a more direct power supply from the battery rather than using the standard feed from the light harness.

[ainarssems]

Bad connection or battery getting old. A capacitor wired parallel to ballast should sort it out.

[radovr6]

i'm convinced its power related as i can disconnect one ballast and the problem didnt happen but as soon as i operate them both as they should be it knocks the dash out.

all connections are clean and insulated.

[ainarssems]

Battery must be getting old. Capacitors will get rid of problem or give engine some rpm when switching lights on

[ainarssems]

I were posting from the phone hence the short reply.
Regards capacitors you are looking for:
1.105C instead of 85C to last longer in the heat of engine bay or lamp wherever you fit them
2. 25V as 16V is a bit too close for comfort
3.4700 uF or 10,000uF. 4700 will be smaller and fit more nicely and should do the job, 10,000 might be needed if battery is getting really weak.

Example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25V-4700uF...#ht_970wt_1163

They should do the job nicely. Just make sure you wire + and - correctly

[HPsauce]

I tend to "acquire" capacitors when required (amazing how many just "blow" in computers and power supplies) from my neighbour who is a home-based electronics designer (sensors and the like) and has a HUGE supply.

He refuses to touch unbranded stuff from eBay, but says the Panasonic ones are usually OK.

e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PANASONIC-.../250910933720?

[ainarssems]

The ones in HPsauce's link are higher capacity but 85C which does not score well with me and bigger and only 16V which is a bit close to comfort for my liking like I said before. If the make is Japanese they should be OK but 25V is a must in my mind