Finding leak in air suspension

[Architex_mA8tey]

Originally Posted by PsYcHe

The ELSAWin I'm using came with an XP install in a VMWare machine (so you'd just need player which is free), the only thing is that it's in Russian so can be a fiddle sometimes.

Picked it up when you were ahemmm on holiday there did you? ahemmmm

[PsYcHe]

*ahem*.. yes... and it's *ahem* legit *ahem* No internets were harmed in the process...

[Stuarta]

After all that, I finally got it running in virtualbox last night - we'll see how long it lasts....

OK - quick coffee then it's new damper time!

[Stuarta]

Almost done - Finally managed to get the strut properly attached after much heaving and swearing. Audi's "wooden block" had a technical failure halfway through so continued with the trolley jack's handle!

Now struggling to re-attach one of the top links and the anti-roll bar but it's getting dark now so it can wait 'til tomorrow.

[ainarssems]

Just remember that bolts that go through rubber bushes has to be tightened when car rest on wheels/suspension with full weight not lifted off the ground

[Stuarta]

Thanks - did that - enden up using the weight of the car to align the anti-roll bar to get the last bolt in so job done! Been for a test drive and no faults listed but still have to check the levels.

Thanks to all for their help

A few tips for anyone contemplating this:-

The frontmost of the two top links goes in almost effortlessly with the steering turned fully towards the side in question.

The rearmost one does the same with the steering in a central position.

For the anti-roll bar, I found it easier to attach the bolt to it then put on the wheel, set the suspension to lift and let the damper do the work of aligning the parts. It means you have little space to work but that anti-roll bar is huge and very difficult to lever into position.

[Architex_mA8tey]

Well done on getting it sorted - its always all the more satisfying when you didn't have to get the dealership involved

[Stuarta]

In the ongoing saga of the air suspension - the system stayed fixed for a week or two then intermittently started giving faults again - same as before, then leaks and eventual compressor shutdown due to overheating.

I finally got time the last couple of days to have a go again and having spent all of yesterday trying, couldn't find any leaks!

Today, I bit the bullet and went to the dealers', who told me they couldn't fit the car in for "at least several days" - after much discussion of the symptoms, we came to the conclusion that the control valve was the most likely culprit.

Having bought the valve ( and a replacement relay, just in case), I fitted it this afternoon (replacing the connectors and o-rings) which seemed to go OK, except when I removed the trim to reveal the valve, I found this wire floating around unconnected to anything - had a good look around but can't find the other end. It branches off of the loom leading to the control valve's connector.



Having reconnected everything, cleared the faults and started her up - lo and behold :-


Address 34: Level Control Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55AB906FAC1A76C
2 Faults Found:

01575 - Control Switched Off
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 134
Mileage: 63760 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2012.04.09
Time: 14:37:43

01583 - Leak in System Detected
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 134
Mileage: 63760 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2012.04.09
Time: 14:37:59

I've never seen the "control switched off" before - Is this because I changed a part or sometheing to do with the stray wire? I am stumped.

Further update - after numerous attempts, I finally managed to get it to run long enough to do a full adaptation sequence - however, there is clearly still a leak at the front somewhere - whenever I get it to raise, it drops as soon as the compressor switches off - which it does regularly due to overheating. Now unless I've overlooked something stupid while replacing the strut (entirely plausible) I have no idea where to look for the leak - no audible signs, no bubbles from pipes when sprayed with soapy water, no loose connectors. As far as I can see, the only remaining bits of the system are the compressor and the other front strut - neither of which are cheap options.

Anyone have any ideas?

[Stuarta]

Further update - checked the fuse behind the dash today - it's ok - had a look for the relay but couldn't find the right one - either behind the dash or under the carpet (LHS - beside the 'phone module?).

Another symptom - while running the system and looking at the vag-com readouts yesterday, I noticed the compressor temperature to be indicating 103 degrees and climbing but it didn't even feel warm to the touch. Faulty sensor? could this be related to the problem? any way to fix / disable it without swapping out the compressor?

[Stuarta]

Ok - I finally bit the bullet and replaced the other front air shock today.

Thankfully, the compressor hasn't got to the point of self destruction yet, so it works however.....I no longer have the option to select the ride through the car menu in the MMI and the settings menu now says "no further settings for this vehicle" or similar - no option for jacking mode / towing mode. The system works and raises the car, VAG_COM shows no faults but can't change anything. I also tried going into the hidden menu to see if anything was disabled - it doesn't seem to BUT I also can't get into the "vehicle" sub-menu - nothing happens.

This may mor may not be linked to a battery failure last week - I left the suspension in jacking mode overnight to avoid overstressing the compressor but it appears to have drained the battery - next day it was totally dead. I recharged it and cleared the myriad of faults thrown up by it but this seems to be the only remaining symptom.

Anyone have any clues?