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#1
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Replacing batteries in key fob?
Not sure where this goes and couldn't see if anyone else might have asked the question before but how do you replace the battery in the A8 key fob?
One of my W12 keys looks to be completely flat and has never worked and now I am having problems with the other...car intermittently reports key not recognised or something similar... It looks to be the same key fob in both my 2001 S8 & 2005 W12 and reading the latter manual it says to go to the dealer? Surely it can't be that difficult? Great video here; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDp1W...e_gdata_player I am guessing mine comes apart the same way but does the key/car have to be re-programmed afterwards and if so what is the procedure? Is it different on both D2/D3 cars mentioned above? Thanks & kind regards, -=Glyn=- |
#2
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You just pull off the plastic back.
Open the key out, and it's the bottom half of the side with the audi logo. Takes a bit of pressure, but pops off. Then a new CR2032(?) battery. No adaptations or anything needed.
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2010 Jag XF 3.0D Portfolio S I know.. I know.. |
#3
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Quote:
(My trusty old PF S8 manual tells you both how to replace batteries and how to resynchronise the remote if it fails.) Can't hurt to replace the batteries on the non-working one and test the voltage on the old ones as well.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions and extended leather. Ski hatch retrofit. Aftermarket reversing camera. DVB-T and XCarlink now removed as redundant. 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (Even rarer than a D2 S8!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. Agate Grey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, Tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon. Added Auto-dim mirror, Leather seats, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#4
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Neither of my D3s have needed dealer visits for battery replacement in keys... Could maybe see a re-code needed if it's been flat for a long time, but should still work.
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2010 Jag XF 3.0D Portfolio S I know.. I know.. |
#5
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I change my batteries once a year when the car is serviced to ensure I don't have any problems. Also keep a couple of spares in the glovebox.
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. Nite Blue 3.0L SE Quattro |
#6
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Quote:
If its's anything like D2 then there are 2 parts: 1)remote to lock unlock(and I guess keyless for D3) which uses batteries . and 2) immobiliser part which does not use any batteries. Do you have problem starting car or opening/closing it? Quote:
Well it might be different on D3.
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
#7
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When the battery gets low in D3 with keyless, you'll get that.. D3 with keyless also eats batteries quicker.
Also sensitive to having a phone next to them.
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2010 Jag XF 3.0D Portfolio S I know.. I know.. |
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