Battery

After putting up with apparent slow cranking, I think my battery finally gave up. Last night at the pub I had to get a jump start (lucklily was carrying leads!) And this morning it really didn't want to start but did after some slow cranking (great engine!) Not expecting it to start at lunch time!! - but am going to go get a battery (I know its the batter and not connections as when I applied the jump leads cranking was excellent and it started straight away - thus negating any issue down the wire somewhere) - the batter also has 'charge by Jul2003' on a sticker on top, like a best before date so I am assuming this battery has to be 6/7/8 years old.
Anyway - knowing nothing about battery's and Amp Hours and cranking, what am I looking for battery wise. Sorry for the simple question but these are the things I need help with! (Tried a TSN Battery search and couldn't find a list)

Quick update - been out at lunch time to the local motor factors (who were very good by the way - BBC in Burnley) and got a replacement type 017 battery. Car now starts alot better and cranks like a good-un - 2 questions arise though:
1. what are the other smaller wires on the positive terminal for? The ends of them are looking alittle corroded and I wanted to replace the ends

2. Does losing power have any lasting effects on the car? Does anything need a reset - tell you why: The shifting seems to have forgotten my lazy driving style and shifts quicker when needed - bonus and I know that the Gearbox ECU can get reset by powering off - But the when I come to some lights, or stop, the engine idle seems to dip right down, to the point of near stall (red lights flicker) - Does the Engine ECU suffer or does something else need a reset?
And the other thing I noticed was that the one touch windows on the front stopped working, like they had forgotten that feature exists, and then once up and down all the way manually, started working again. Odd.
Other thing that surprised me (same as someone else posted once) is that the radio didn't need a code, it was fine, even though the power was off for 10 mins or so.

Anyone got any input on any of the above appreciated.

[PsYcHe]

Yep.. Most of the systems will have reset.

The windows are easy, just run them all the way up and down a couple of times to reset. It's a standard thing on every car I've had with one-shot windows.

The gearbox will learn your style again (256+ shift pattern types apparently).

Not sure what the smaller wires do.

And the near-stall sounds a bit worrying, maybe just needs a wee blast about to clear things up

Originally Posted by PsYcHe

Yep.. Most of the systems will have reset.

The windows are easy, just run them all the way up and down a couple of times to reset. It's a standard thing on every car I've had with one-shot windows.

The gearbox will learn your style again (256+ shift pattern types apparently).

Not sure what the smaller wires do.

And the near-stall sounds a bit worrying, maybe just needs a wee blast about to clear things up

Thanks mate-
Windows - sorted
Gearbox - I wanted it to forget so thats good - bored with having to put my foot all the way down to get a downshift :-)
Near stalling.. yeah weird - never done it before and all I did was change the battery. doesn't actually stall and seemed a little better by the time I had done the 10 mins back to the office, so was assuming it to have upset the management a bit until it learns where a decent idle is again perhaps. will monitor.
Anyone on the smaller wires on the + term?

[IT]

Originally Posted by harpersimon

Quick update - been out at lunch time to the local motor factors (who were very good by the way - BBC in Burnley) and got a replacement type 017 battery. Car now starts alot better and cranks like a good-un - 2 questions arise though:
1. what are the other smaller wires on the positive terminal for? The ends of them are looking alittle corroded and I wanted to replace the ends

2. Does losing power have any lasting effects on the car? Does anything need a reset - tell you why: The shifting seems to have forgotten my lazy driving style and shifts quicker when needed - bonus and I know that the Gearbox ECU can get reset by powering off - But the when I come to some lights, or stop, the engine idle seems to dip right down, to the point of near stall (red lights flicker) - Does the Engine ECU suffer or does something else need a reset?
And the other thing I noticed was that the one touch windows on the front stopped working, like they had forgotten that feature exists, and then once up and down all the way manually, started working again. Odd.
Other thing that surprised me (same as someone else posted once) is that the radio didn't need a code, it was fine, even though the power was off for 10 mins or so.

Anyone got any input on any of the above appreciated.

1) - They run additional kit in the boot, mainly for the fused distribution panel above the battery area, but also heated front windscreen, towbar etc where fitted.

2) - There is a special gearbox relearning process to be done when the power has been off. The prefacelift cars TCU seems to forget everything when the power is lost. The process is basically have the ignition on, and press your foot very, very slowly to the floor. You'll feel a bit daft sat in your car doing it, but it really does make a difference.... Linky here in more detail:

http://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/85952.phtml

Moste Delta head units werent coded by the dealers. All headunits were send uncoded from the factory and it was the dealers job to actually code them up, which never seemed to happen.

The engine ECU etc has nothing to forget, and nothing to learn.

Good news on getting a new battery in there - The winter usually finishes off the weaks ones, with low temperatures and high demands through wipers / lights / heated seats, screens etc...

Thanks dude
I'll do the g'box procedure, have done before but no harm in it. As I said though, its actually better for me now and causing no issue.

Thanks for input on the wires, will try and work them out - don't have towbar or front heated screen - but least there doesn't seem to be an issue disconnecting them to replace the ends. Hope they have alittle slack on them

"Delta" head unit? is that the technical name for a Concert? I do have a radio code I think - as the part in the owener manual is missing - presumably put somewhere safe by a former owner as it says to do!!

Idle - oh.. damn. Hoped that would be 'yeah it will even out' - no idea why its decided to do that then. Nothing else at all changed..

I have known the battery isn't in great shape a while to be fair.. its never been a super fast cranker but lke you say think the cold has killed it. Its defo over 4-5 years old anyway.

[IT]

Originally Posted by harpersimon

Quick update - been out at lunch time to the local motor factors (who were very good by the way - BBC in Burnley) and got a replacement type 017 battery. Car now starts alot better and cranks like a good-un - 2 questions arise though:
1. what are the other smaller wires on the positive terminal for? The ends of them are looking alittle corroded and I wanted to replace the ends

2. Does losing power have any lasting effects on the car? Does anything need a reset - tell you why: The shifting seems to have forgotten my lazy driving style and shifts quicker when needed - bonus and I know that the Gearbox ECU can get reset by powering off - But the when I come to some lights, or stop, the engine idle seems to dip right down, to the point of near stall (red lights flicker) - Does the Engine ECU suffer or does something else need a reset?
And the other thing I noticed was that the one touch windows on the front stopped working, like they had forgotten that feature exists, and then once up and down all the way manually, started working again. Odd.
Other thing that surprised me (same as someone else posted once) is that the radio didn't need a code, it was fine, even though the power was off for 10 mins or so.

Anyone got any input on any of the above appreciated.

Sorry missed a few... I answer your '2' questions, but note now you have 4

The windows after losing power all require a once all the way down and back up to recalibrate the 'auto' mechanism. Once will do it. Its by design.

The stalling... Hmmm.. Its a 2.8 right... Was it a hill or anything?

Originally Posted by Ian@A8Parts

Sorry missed a few... I answer your '2' questions, but note now you have 4

The windows after losing power all require a once all the way down and back up to recalibrate the 'auto' mechanism. Once will do it. Its by design.

The stalling... Hmmm.. Its a 2.8 right... Was it a hill or anything?

Cheeky ****** - Scathing mock to my 190 odd HP - wait until SKa reads this..
Noooo.. it wasn't a hill.. .it was me slowing for a roundabout and then a pedestrian crossing. Sure it will be fine on the way home later. I'll monitor it.

Least I know it will start tomorrow now. Poor thing.

[IT]

Originally Posted by harpersimon

Cheeky ****** - Scathing mock to my 190 odd HP - wait until SKa reads this..
Noooo.. it wasn't a hill.. .it was me slowing for a roundabout and then a pedestrian crossing. Sure it will be fine on the way home later. I'll monitor it.

Least I know it will start tomorrow now. Poor thing.

<doh> I'm in trouble now... Just thing of the economy. I have to check my online banking before I can reverse off the drive

Stalling coming up to roundabouts is classic breather pipes perishing I would say, I'm less familiar with the 2.8 and I think Ska knows it inside out, but I'll see what I can dig out...

Ok ta. Just had (or not long ago) the breather pipe assembly replaced - as I shattered the original when changing coil packs with Ska last year to diagnose something else. At the time I noted that it was all gunked up so changed the whole thing (it comes as one) and cleaned out the rocker cover connections for it..
Can't see why this would start after changing the battery thats all, and hence the 'what would that have done' question. Its like it drops off and hovers above cuttting out when I slow down, but when I am sitting there (at the lights for example) watching the rev counter, it recovers to a nice steady tick over.
Its not up and down all over the place, but lets say drops to 3-400 revs as I stop, and recovers to 5-600 (or whatever is normal)