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D3 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
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#1
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They had loads more - that was the first I came across when searching E-Bay
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Andy. Current cars: BMW i4 M-Sport Peugeot 207 (the sons) Triumph Daytona 675 (2017 reg) =========================== Gone but not forgotten Ford Focus ST-2 Mk3 (the wifes) (stolen Oct 2023) 1972 T2 Bay Window Camper (Slow) Audi TT Mk1 225 - now with coil-overs and a 7inch touchscreen infotainment centre 2003 A8 Sport 4.2 (with ACC & LPG) (Feed up with all the issues so passed it on to a forum member) 2000 A8 FL QS 4.2 (with RNS-E - Nice ![]() |
#2
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oticed over the last few days that after the suspension failure, that the offside rear seemed a lot lower than all the others.
After if failed today and putting it on the drive I got the tape measure out. Apart from the offside rear, from the floor to the centre of the arch measured 73 cm. The other one measured 70 cm. After turning the engine on and selecting high three of them went to 75 cm while the offside only to 73. It did eventually raise to 75 cm. Will keep an eye on it as my drive aint level but it could be a leak or something. Cheers
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Andy. Current cars: BMW i4 M-Sport Peugeot 207 (the sons) Triumph Daytona 675 (2017 reg) =========================== Gone but not forgotten Ford Focus ST-2 Mk3 (the wifes) (stolen Oct 2023) 1972 T2 Bay Window Camper (Slow) Audi TT Mk1 225 - now with coil-overs and a 7inch touchscreen infotainment centre 2003 A8 Sport 4.2 (with ACC & LPG) (Feed up with all the issues so passed it on to a forum member) 2000 A8 FL QS 4.2 (with RNS-E - Nice ![]() |
#3
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Calibration would be ideal in this situation, twice tbh, just to level it up.
But you will need VCDS for it. You could try the cable I gave you, but if it goes to limp mode cos you can do calibration with this cable, then you will need VCDS. That isn't a problem because if you need it (emergency) I could always send you my cable via Special Delivery. Calibration should be possible via this cable as it's nothing really advanced. There could be a leak on that wheel as well, you could check that with a soapy water first.
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2006 D3 S8 5.2 V10 Ceramic Brakes, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI , 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Fingerprint, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Heated Sport Seats, Alacantra, Carbon Trim inc Aluminium Pack 2. 2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car. Standard S-line equipment, no extras. 2006 D3 A8 3.7 V8 - SOLD but not forgotten |
#4
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Hi, I've just joined here so I hope you don't mind me buting inn. I may be able to she'd some light on the problems you are facing. I own a Cayenne, Touareg and Q7 specialists in Newcastle and I have come across these codes many times and they are 90% of the time down to the compressor. It's made by Wabco and is used in nearly all the luxury cars produced in Europe and its biggest flaw is the piston ring in the compressor. Normally the fault appears after sitting over night, a short time after you start driving a fault will show on the dash as the compressor tries to refill the system.
The piston ring wears over time and allows blow by, the poor motor is working so hard to fill the system it overheats and shuts down. The old piston ring is made of fibreglass but the new one is a carbon composite so doesn't wear as quickly. First thing you need to do is stop running tests on your system until you have repaired the compressor or you will be buying a new one, the motor will only put up with so many overheats and simply stops altogether. When you have removed the compressor housing from the car you will need to take your time with removing the bolts as they are held in with Locktite! If you round the bolt, Irwin tools do extractors which lock on to the damaged head as you turn it. Carefully heating the bolt also helps to burn away the Locktite. Once the bolts are out it's a simple job to overhaul the pump. Clean the cylinder wall with brake cleaner. Do not use any lubricant (the pump is dry running), replace the piston ring making sure the taper is in the same direction as the old one, replace the rubber seal and reassemble the housing. If done properly this repair will last for years and solve a lot of problems on the air suspension. Hope this helps. H |
#5
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Thanks for your reply.
My error is slightly different though. Depending on the ambient temperature depends on when the light comes on! If very cold, it can take a good 15 to 20 minutes before the light is on. If warm (ish), then 5 to 10 minutes. So - it does sound like the pump is working hard, but this could be down to a leak? Seeming that the cost of the piston ring and bolt extractor are low, it would be foolish of me not to do the upgrade but I will still check for leaks. Many thanks for your post ![]()
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Andy. Current cars: BMW i4 M-Sport Peugeot 207 (the sons) Triumph Daytona 675 (2017 reg) =========================== Gone but not forgotten Ford Focus ST-2 Mk3 (the wifes) (stolen Oct 2023) 1972 T2 Bay Window Camper (Slow) Audi TT Mk1 225 - now with coil-overs and a 7inch touchscreen infotainment centre 2003 A8 Sport 4.2 (with ACC & LPG) (Feed up with all the issues so passed it on to a forum member) 2000 A8 FL QS 4.2 (with RNS-E - Nice ![]() |
#6
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Yes your right it could be a leak, it could also be that the ambient temperature affects how long it takes for the pump to overheat. Pump kit is roughly £20 on eBay and bolt grip set is about the same.
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#7
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![]() Thanks for the info, valuable lesson for sure ![]() Very quick question, do you know is compressor could be related to VCDS lowering problems as well?? I can go -15mm at the front and -10mm at the rear, but below that it wont let me anymore, it errors me when calibrating at the end, usually after entering values for the front axle and switching to rear axle?? I will be doing this rebuild anyway next time I've got the bumper off ![]()
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2006 D3 S8 5.2 V10 Ceramic Brakes, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI , 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Fingerprint, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Heated Sport Seats, Alacantra, Carbon Trim inc Aluminium Pack 2. 2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car. Standard S-line equipment, no extras. 2006 D3 A8 3.7 V8 - SOLD but not forgotten |
#8
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When you alter the height settings front or rear the system will automatically do a self test, if any faults are detected it will through up a fault code. If you aren't experiencing any other fault with the system then it may not be the compressor. I did however come across a similar fault on a Range Rover and it turned out to be a front height corrector (sensor on the suspension arm) sending an implausible signal to the control module when it got to a specific height. The sensor didn't show at fault when I read the faults, only a vague random signal fault. What code or codes are you getting?
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#9
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This is the code I'm getting from time to time, well, I think it there every time I do scan which is every few months
1 Fault Found: 01772 - Signal from Level Control Pressure Sensor (G291) 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent Height corrector would make sense to be honest. Do you know how much they are each?? Cheers ![]()
__________________
2006 D3 S8 5.2 V10 Ceramic Brakes, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI , 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Fingerprint, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Heated Sport Seats, Alacantra, Carbon Trim inc Aluminium Pack 2. 2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car. Standard S-line equipment, no extras. 2006 D3 A8 3.7 V8 - SOLD but not forgotten |
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