D3 3.0l V6 TDI intake manifold runner replacement

[gadgetmind]

OK, I changed the linkages to clear the "Lower limit" error, but a year later it's back on bank 2.

I've ordered refurbed manifolds but wondered if anyone has done this and knows of an online guide?

I could also do with knowing all bolt torques for manifold to head and intake to manifold.

Thanks!

(Oh, and I'll take pictures and do a write up afterwards.)

[M-A8]

See if that helps mate. but as you did not mention year of the car (don't know if actually needed), I've attached instructions for 2006 3.0TDi

[gadgetmind]

Yes, right year, mine is a pre facelift 2006 D3, but it's the intake manifolds with those nasty swirl flaps I'm tackling rather than exhaust manifolds.

[M-A8]

Originally Posted by gadgetmind

Yes, right year, mine is a pre facelift 2006 D3, but it's the intake manifolds with those nasty swirl flaps I'm tackling rather than exhaust manifolds.

Sorry

Will look now mate

[M-A8]

See attached

[M-A8]

XPS files, way much better, sorry again, I am so not on today, I'm going sleep

[gadgetmind]

Thanks for that. I had another guide, but it glossed over issues such as torques and replacing seals.

The only part I find daunting is working on the fuel lines. I've ordered some metric crow foot spanners to torque them up again, and hopefully there will be clearance.

Interestingly, the two guides have different views on whether things like connectors on EGR and injectors need to be pulled. I guess I'll find out when I get there!

[gadgetmind]

BTW, to depressurise the diesel lines, I guess I just pull the right fuse/relay, start the engine, and wait for it to die?

Anythings I need to know about bleeding the system afterwards? Your docs (thanks again) suggest driving it and reseting if you get an error, but also mentions a bleed procedure.

My other guide just says the engine will run rough until it's cleared out any air that gets in.

[snapdragon]

No need to depressurise.
I have disconnected mine and nothing to notice came out that a sheet of kitchen roll wouldn't catch.
Diesel/liquid is not compressible, so there is no 'spring' effect like there is with a gas.
I think it should cope with not being bled as you are not removing the pipes from the jectors are you?
If it has got empty pipes, you can crank with the metal pipes on the injectors cracked undone and crank and then stop cranking when fuel comes out and nip up it should then start and run rough.
In any case, try not to run the high pressure pump dry on it's inlet side.
Another bleeding point is the top of the fuel filter has a nipple on it with a bolt in the top - you can attach a vacuum pump or pela type oil extractor here..

[gadgetmind]

OK, and update on the fun I've been having.

1) Got everything to do the job, managed to break tab off bank2 connector (seems very brittle, I guess 'cos near turbo) but otherwise strip down went fine. Until I got to that banjo bolt on bank 2, re-read instructions and saw EGR cooler etc. needed removing. So, chickened out and put it all back together!
2) Took car to local German car fettlers where they did the work for £230 using my parts. Driving home that sodding light came back on! It turned out that the motor on the refurb bank 2 runner I got was duff, so I refitted my old one.
3) But, of course, garage on finding locking tab missing from connector had superglued it in, which meant I did even more damage removing it, so it's now all held together with silicon self-amalgamating repair tape.

Anyway, light off, and no faults despite multiple start/stop cycles and lots of revving. Will give it a drive tomorrow.

Thanks all for your help.