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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
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#1
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Wandering and camber following
So, my new (to me) 2.8 2WD is nice in most ways but does have various areas of "personality"
The one for this section is that the steering is a bit vague about the centre position and it likes to follow road camber more than usual. This is not quite even though. ON a "normal" road where camber slopes left, it goes pretty straight. Where the camber slopes to the right it pulls quite markedly right and also on the flat (as far any road is flat) though to a much lesser extent. It has 18" "sport wheels" though it was not born a sport. I don't know whether the suspension has been modified to match. It feels pretty firm. Tyres are all pretty new. Dunlop Sportmaxx RT on the front, Rotalla RU01s on the rear (which are a big improvement on the tatty and perished Pirelli PZeros). The fronts do show some feathering on the outer edges so likely toe-in (may explain the dead ahead vagueness). Clearly it needs 4 wheel aligning (made a HUGE difference to my last one), but experience has shown that'll I have to get all the adjustment points moving before taking it in - and that can be a mission in itself, especially at the back. So I'm going to be under there poking at it - any suggestions on what to be looking for. Not looking for a full rebuild - the A6 is my winter project..... Thanks Nick |
#2
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Steering racks do wear around straight position as that's were they spend most of time and start getting a bit of play. There is adjustment screw to tighten it up just be careful not to tighten it too much or it will be too tight when turned.
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
#3
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Following camber can be affected by tyres - Dunlops particularly in my experience. Try swapping the tyres end to end and see if it makes a difference.
Probably nothing else to see until you get it on an alignment rack. I like to set the front at the parallel-end of the stock settings, or actually parallel for lowered examples. |
#4
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I had a look at this yesterday, staring with the OS front..... because there is an occasional clatter from this side.
There was some odd movement in the steering arm, which had me foxed for a moment. Then I spotted the jam nut was at entirely the wrong end of the thread...... Sorted that and wound it in 1/4 turn to add a smidge of toe out. Drives the same but the clatter is gone. NOt sure of this fine piece of professional workmanship is the last lot to do the tracking or the MoT garage changing the TRE. Suspect the latter as it was Mot'd only a handful of miles before I bought it. Unimpressive! Nick |
#5
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Tried swapping the tyres around. No significant difference noted.
Will have to get it properly tracked front rear, but that means freeing the various adjusters off at the back - which very crusty looking...... oh deep joy..... Nick |
#6
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You will almost certainly find the inner bolts for the rear tie rods are seized in to the tie rod bush, which will necessitate removal with extreme prejudice (aka sawzall). The D2 bolt is NLA but the C5 A6 bolt works instead.
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#7
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Yeah..... travelled this same route with my last one. Thanks for the C5 bolt tip, May turn out to be critical!
Going to ignore it for a bit longer. Trying to convince an MX5 gearbox it wants to live in my Triumph GT6. It doesn’t, but it’s going to.. Supposed to be readying the C4 for another tour of duty too..... All go here. Nick |
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