|
|
|||||||
| D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
26th February 2012, 08:08 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Can I change front brake hose myself :)
Hello All,
Last time I passed my MOT with the following advisory: "Nearside Front Brake hose slightly deteriorated (3.6.B.4d)". Interestingly, Reading Audi didn't notice this problem when I changed my callipers a year ago. So I decided to change brake hose. Is it easy to do? I think I have all required tools, but I've never done this before... Or should I go to Audi?  Anyone changes brake hoses at home?
__________________
I'd rather drive on left 
|
|
#2
26th February 2012, 08:28 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
It's a straight forward enough job if you know what you are doing, but you need to make sure you don't end up getting air into the hydraulic system. Any garage will be able to change it for you for not a lot of money if you are unsure.
My advice when it comes to brakes is leave it to the experts if you don't know what you are doing
__________________
. Nite Blue 3.0L SE Quattro 
|
|
#4
26th February 2012, 08:39 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
. Nite Blue 3.0L SE Quattro
|
|
#5
26th February 2012, 08:42 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
It wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't picked up at the next MOT (unless the bloke doing it reads the advisories off the system from this year and makes a note to check it). Quite often it's just an opinion/note rather than a suggestion it's anywhere near causing you any problems.
Any decent independent garage should be able to sort - very little fluid should be lost and they only need to bleed that corner to make sure any air is removed from the caliper. As you say, if it was bad when the calipers were being replaced you'd expect a call to suggest some new flexis would be a good idea. I might get some braided hoses made up for mine when it needs one doing - got someone I know who makes the hoses for Morgan in braided stainless
__________________
===SOLD===2002 Audi S8 D2 Final Edition (yes, really) in Avus Silver with purple extended leather===SOLD=== 2011 S5 Sportback in Phantom Black with black Super Sports leather, 9x20s, tech pack high, adaptive xenon plus, intelligent key, memory seats pack, sunroof, B&O, Audi Drive Select & quattro Sports Diff, DAB, parking system plus 2015 VW Golf GTI Performance Pack in Carbon Grey with black Vienna leather, tech pack (Discovery Pro nav & Dynaudio), DCC, factory towbar and retrofit RVC
|
|
#6
26th February 2012, 08:43 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I would do it myself, but I have all the tools. It's not difficult, but make sure you bleed the brake lines properly. Take of the brake line on the inner wheel arch first and pop some sort of cap straight on to stop the fluid running out. Remove and replace the line on the caliper. Then reconnect to the car and immediatly bleed the brakes.
You can do this with normal open ended spanners but I would urge you to buy a brake spanner and when loosening the bleed nipple us a socket to crack it. If it dosen't crack easily just use a bit of heat or a light tap with a hammer, Dont force it as it will sheer and you'll be in a world of hurt.
__________________
Conan (the Librarian) Watch it if you dare Currently, 2000 S8, Merlin Purple, Leather Pack 1, Winter Pack 1, SPAX adjustable suspension, AP Racing 6 pot front caliper, 385mm fully floating disks, EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, Black Diamond grooved rear disks and predetor pads, D2 Doctors Brake Block. 1997 4.2 A8SQ - the Projekt. 12 years and ongoing! 1997 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. Restoration sat waiting; saved from the Scrapyard 2003 C5 Allroad 4.2Q - Cobolt Blue. Towing car. Laid up awaiting manual conversion. 2005 C5 Allroad 2.5TDi FE - Grey - Workhorse. 2015 Q3QS SLine - Daytona Grey. Lots of extras! Long Haired Admirals cutter. Previously 2003 C5 A6 1.9TDI FWD - Loaner from D2 Doctor Lifex 1997 S8 - Ming Blue. Loaned out and written off. I loved that car. My first engine swap after cambelt failure. 1996 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. 178k on a cambelt! Trader's 8. Delivered to A8Parts at Lifex. 2003 2.8 A8SQ - powder blueish. Fill in for a while. Sold on. 1998 1.8T A4 Avant FWD. Ming Blue (there's a theme here), PEX for the 97 S8. And a list of non VAG going back 40 years before I saw the light.
|
|
#7
26th February 2012, 09:42 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks Conan. I guess brake bleeding should be done by two people. First is pressing the pedal while second operates the nipple, right? I don't have second person.
Need to find a good local mechanic I can trust. I think I need to see how it is done first.
__________________
I'd rather drive on left
|
|
#8
27th February 2012, 04:39 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Use a Gunson's eezibleed for one man bleeding,
__________________
Conan (the Librarian) Watch it if you dare Currently, 2000 S8, Merlin Purple, Leather Pack 1, Winter Pack 1, SPAX adjustable suspension, AP Racing 6 pot front caliper, 385mm fully floating disks, EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, Black Diamond grooved rear disks and predetor pads, D2 Doctors Brake Block. 1997 4.2 A8SQ - the Projekt. 12 years and ongoing! 1997 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. Restoration sat waiting; saved from the Scrapyard 2003 C5 Allroad 4.2Q - Cobolt Blue. Towing car. Laid up awaiting manual conversion. 2005 C5 Allroad 2.5TDi FE - Grey - Workhorse. 2015 Q3QS SLine - Daytona Grey. Lots of extras! Long Haired Admirals cutter. Previously 2003 C5 A6 1.9TDI FWD - Loaner from D2 Doctor Lifex 1997 S8 - Ming Blue. Loaned out and written off. I loved that car. My first engine swap after cambelt failure. 1996 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. 178k on a cambelt! Trader's 8. Delivered to A8Parts at Lifex. 2003 2.8 A8SQ - powder blueish. Fill in for a while. Sold on. 1998 1.8T A4 Avant FWD. Ming Blue (there's a theme here), PEX for the 97 S8. And a list of non VAG going back 40 years before I saw the light.
|
|
#10
14th March 2012, 08:04 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Ah, having a power bleeder is the way to go on this.
(Uses compressed air to "suck" all the old fluid out. Just keep the tank at the master cyc. full, and it's going to remove all the air, and old fluid in the same process.)Mine was about 75.00 USD, but I'm not sure what they run on your guys side of the pond. (But I'd have to say not much more.) Especially since most of this stuff is made in China anymore. To use the power bleeder is simple. Just change out the line, you will need a bottle of new brake fluid too. Just make sure the brake fluid tank is full, cap off/or on the side. Then using a small 6 point, crack open the bleeder valve, and pop the hose on there, while applying air to the unit. (Creates suction.) This will suck out any old fluid and air at the same time. It takes about 90 to 120 seconds to pull out all the old fluid from the caliper and lines to the fluid tank. Close the bleeder valve, and make sure your fluid tank at the master cyc. is filled up where it should be, and you are done. (Test drive, and confirm brakes work fine.) I've done perhaps 50 cars this way in the past, since it's so easy, and any time I swap the pads even, I'll bleed the brakes, and put in fresh fluid this way.
|
|
|
|
Linear Mode
