#21
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Thanks for all the above info MJ.
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Is it worth the troubles cutting this wire harness and install wire pigtail connectors like these? Reason why I'm thinking about doing this is because it will make easier to disconnect this harness and move it out of the way when removing the cam cover and when reinstalling the cam cover. What is this sensor for?
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2001 S8 (build date March 16th 2001) Brilliant black with oxblood red/black interior. Mods prior to my ownership: 01E 6 speed, carbon fiber trim, bi-xenon, aftermarket muffler with x-pipe, tinted windows, non-tip steering wheel, Spal electric fan. My mods: Oxblood red interior, LED interior lights, D3 ignition coils, new window tint, tip steering wheel with new S8 emblem, mk1 TT steering wheel air bag, mk1 TT 6 speed shift knob, new shift boot. Last edited by Audifan; 29th May 2022 at 09:52 PM. |
#22
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The spark plug tube is pushed in to the head. Its an extremely tight interference fit but its really the only component which could allow oil to get in there.
Just disconnect the oil level sensor cable at the sensor on the left side of the sump. Its cable tied in a couple of places but not difficult to get to. You don't need to cut it to move it. I actually run that cable behind the belt cover when reassembling as its much neater and not in the way - there is plenty of space on that side. The connector inside the right hand cover is for the cam position sensor. |
#23
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Did some minor work today by installing the electric fan relay in a new location and rerouting the wires.
Finished installing the relay to this new location. In case you were wondering what the electrical connection is that's to the left of the relay is for. It was a wiring kit for coolant temp sensor that I installed to automatically turn on/off the electric fan. I totally forgot that I bought and installed this kit. Test fit the bottom half of the air box. This wire needs to be rerouted. Finished getting the wires out of the way. I still need to figure out where to tuck this fuse holder out of the way. It looks like I need drill a small hole to feed this wire (red arrow) through the side of the ECU box just like you see for the grey wire in front of the ECU box and seal the hole with waterproof silicone to keep water out. I need to remove this connector to fix this properly.
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2001 S8 (build date March 16th 2001) Brilliant black with oxblood red/black interior. Mods prior to my ownership: 01E 6 speed, carbon fiber trim, bi-xenon, aftermarket muffler with x-pipe, tinted windows, non-tip steering wheel, Spal electric fan. My mods: Oxblood red interior, LED interior lights, D3 ignition coils, new window tint, tip steering wheel with new S8 emblem, mk1 TT steering wheel air bag, mk1 TT 6 speed shift knob, new shift boot. |
#24
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I finally got around to start on the valve spring replacement job on this car. This job is such a pain as the first valve spring compressor tool kit that I bought does not really work correctly. Then I went to the local parts store to buy a different tool and that one does not really work either.
I started by removing the intake valves. If anyone is interested, here is a side by side comparison of the two springs. The Supertech valve spring is slightly taller then the stock spring. Here is the first valve spring compressor tool kit that I bought. How this tool works is the anchor adaptor is screwed down into the cylinder head and the other end with the open window adaptor is used to compress the valve spring down which allows you access for reinstalling the valve keepers. Also as you can see in this picture I'm using nylon rope (I don't have air compressor nor the adaptors) fed into the cylinder chamber to help keep the valves closed during this job. Only problem with this tool, is there is too much movement and not completely stationary to do the job correctly without causing problems. This picture here I want to illustrate the top part (left in picture) of this adaptor where it screws into the tool and.... ....caused slight damage to this area (not sure the correct name) on the cylinder head. It's not as bad as it looks in this picture as I zoomed in when I took this picture. So I stopped using this tool as it was a struggle to use to compress the valve spring down to reinstall the keepers. Can this be fixed? I went to the parts store to buy a different tool and the center fork part is too wide. I had to modify it to get it to fit correctly. The problem with this tool is the lower hooks are too long where you have the valve spring in the tool and compressed, you can't slide the spring over the valve stem as the hooks come very close together and does not allow the valve stem to pass though. So I ended up returning the tool for a refund. Sorry I didn't take a picture showing the hooks coming too close together. So as of right now, I stopped working on my car until I find a better tool kit to use. Has anyone used this tool kit? Anyone have other suggestions?
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2001 S8 (build date March 16th 2001) Brilliant black with oxblood red/black interior. Mods prior to my ownership: 01E 6 speed, carbon fiber trim, bi-xenon, aftermarket muffler with x-pipe, tinted windows, non-tip steering wheel, Spal electric fan. My mods: Oxblood red interior, LED interior lights, D3 ignition coils, new window tint, tip steering wheel with new S8 emblem, mk1 TT steering wheel air bag, mk1 TT 6 speed shift knob, new shift boot. Last edited by Audifan; 3rd July 2022 at 10:16 PM. |
#25
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A little missing metal from underneath the cam is not an issue because all the force on the cam is upwards, but you don't want a raised portion of aluminium touching the cam since you won't be able to torque it properly and as soon as the cam starts spinning it will melt the aluminium, spread it all round that journal like shiny mayo, and ruin the head. |
#26
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Thanks for the info MJ. I do have fine round-edge needle file but just need to find it lol.
I did some more searching and came across this compressor kit which looks like the best one to use especially when you working by yourself (here is a demo video). As the other kits may need a second person to help you. Since I'm doing this valve spring replacement job, I might as well replace the valve seals. I did a quick vendor search and it looks like the valve seal is the same size for both the intake and exhaust valves?
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2001 S8 (build date March 16th 2001) Brilliant black with oxblood red/black interior. Mods prior to my ownership: 01E 6 speed, carbon fiber trim, bi-xenon, aftermarket muffler with x-pipe, tinted windows, non-tip steering wheel, Spal electric fan. My mods: Oxblood red interior, LED interior lights, D3 ignition coils, new window tint, tip steering wheel with new S8 emblem, mk1 TT steering wheel air bag, mk1 TT 6 speed shift knob, new shift boot. |
#27
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I can't comment on the tool as I think you're the first person to ever document doing the job like this!
The stem seals are the same yes, 036109675A used on loads of things. |
#28
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Lucky me I guess
This vendor's site have multiple brands for the valve seals and wtf at some of the price for one seal!?! They want $10.95 USD for one genuine Volkswagen/Audi seal that's crazy! The other brands are Victor Reinz, Eling, Meistersatz, Corteco, and Febi. Which is the best brand to go with since I don't want to pay the genuine Volkswagen/Audi price? I found the part number for the cam chain is 058109229B. Are both part numbers 058109229B and 058109229 exactly the same? 058109229B is expensive and 058109229 not as expensive.
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2001 S8 (build date March 16th 2001) Brilliant black with oxblood red/black interior. Mods prior to my ownership: 01E 6 speed, carbon fiber trim, bi-xenon, aftermarket muffler with x-pipe, tinted windows, non-tip steering wheel, Spal electric fan. My mods: Oxblood red interior, LED interior lights, D3 ignition coils, new window tint, tip steering wheel with new S8 emblem, mk1 TT steering wheel air bag, mk1 TT 6 speed shift knob, new shift boot. |
#29
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Quote:
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2001 A8 D2 FL 3.7 Q - LPG Conversion, Engine: AKC, Gearbox:FBB, Colour:LY5X Aqua Blue pearl effect, Interior:WJ light beige/dark beige valcona leather with burr walnut inserts My DIY jobs - Replaced alarm horn, Replaced Coolant Temp sensor, Updated RNS-D firmware, Installed Reversing Camera and Digital TV, Dashcam Installation, Retrofitted Rear Blinds, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Chrome Boot Struts Sold! 2008 S8 D3 5.2 V10 - Engine: BSM, Gearbox:KLW, Colour:LY7F Suzuka Grey Pearl Effect, Interior:Black/Black with Silver/Black valcona leather with carbon atlas inserts, Bang & Olufsen, Heated windscreen, Soft-close doors, TV, DAB, AMI, Quad Zone, Auto Boot, Auto dim Mirrors, Keyless entry, PDC with rearview camera, AFS II Headlights My DIY jobs - Fan Jet Windscreen Washers, Retrofitted Electric Side Blinds |
#30
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I don't change the chains. There is no measurable difference between a 200K example and a brand new one, other than the aftermarket items I've seen are flimsy looking tat. If you must change them, genuine only. 058109229B is the number in the catalogue so go with that, although you do appear to be getting fairly reamed on the price - genuine are <$100 here.
Elring or Reinz for the valve stem seals. They are OEs for those types of components. Febi as third choice. I have not had good results from Corteco parts and will not buy them. |
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