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D4 - Sat Nav, ICE, Audio & TV All in car entertainment discussions including MMI 3G Plus

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  #21  
Old 17th October 2021, 11:16 AM
GlynH GlynH is offline
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Originally Posted by steamship View Post
Looking good so far. Intrigued to see all the associated wiring for this setup when it's done.
Yeah me too!

The Kufatec loom consists of two separate harnesses;

Large

Red->MMI Control Unit
Green-> TV Tuner Quadlock
AMI->Rear Trinket Tray under armrest
White Bare Diagnostic->Bose Amplifier or Ignition Sense->Fuse Board (?)
White Ring Masse->Ground (really should have been Brown)
White Spade Dauerplus->Carrier F Fuse 3 10A Permanent Live
Black B->Monitor L
Black F->Monitor R
Quadlock->7F
Fakra Yellow->7F
Black->CAN Hi (TV?)
White->CAN Lo (TV?)


Small

Fakra Cream->7F
Fakra Grey->7F
Fakra Brown-7F
Fakra Green->5F
Fakra Black->Monitor L (unmarked so could be R?)
Fakra Black->Monitor R (also unmarked so could be L?)
Orange MOST Optical 2-pin 7F
Orange MOST Optical->TV(?)


I have laid them out on the garage floor so I can see the various connector types to give me a steer and most of it seems self explanatory but there are three connections above that I am unsure about that I have marked with a (?) above. These are;

Large Harness
1. Small diameter white wire. This is cut to match the length of the two larger white wires which go to the rear fusebox which leads me to believe this bare wire connection is made off there. This then could be an ignition sense wire so the 7F knows when the car is turned off and so starts its 10 minute countdown to shutdown with no activity similar to the 5F in the front. At first I thought it might be a diagnostic wire of some sort that ends up at the Bose Amplifier but after a rethink I think ignition sense might be the more likely of the two.

2. What looks to me suspiciously like CAN Hi (Black twisted pair) & CAN Lo (clear sheathed stranded wire) looks like it could go to the TV Tuner in the rear of the car where there might be a couple of empty connections in the Quadlock that might do the job? Failing that i guess they could be spliced into the existing CAN Pair at the same point? I guess I could pick up CAN from another point but again the cut length seems to indicate they might go to the TV Tuner.

Small Harness
3. The two single orange MOST cables again seem to be cut to reach the TV Tuner and I am guessing that one of the existing MOST cables is detached from the TV Tuner and plugged into the joining splice on the new harness and the other harness free end is then plugged back into the TV Tuner connector where the existing optical was just removed from.
I believe that if the MOST loop is connected the wrong way round then the whole MOST loop could be unresponsive but at this time do not know which wire is which. I really need to take some panels off and get the harness laid out in the car to hopefully understand a bit more.

I emailed Kufatec as it was them who made the harness but they were about as much help as a chocolate teapot and refused to send me a wiring diagram as I didn't purchase directly from them despite their name plastered all over the bag it came in and are the sole manufacturer of the harness AFAIK.

A couple of years ago I wanted to buy TPMS Hi from them when it was 699 (its now 734) and asked if they could send me the installation instructions so I could check to see whether it was within my capability to fit and what was involved but they again refused and said I had to buy the kit first.

Really helpful...maybe they should change their name to Fukutec!

Any clarification around the wiring would be very much appreciated.

Then after the wiring is complete I believe the procedure will be to;

Code Central Gateway to enable 7F (not sure of the procedure to do this)
Enable RSE menu from the Green Menu
Remove Component Protection (possible Audi dealer visit)
SVM/Check/update firmware on the 7F to match existing 5F (possible Audi dealer visit)
Apply any and all updates

Fingers crossed after all this it works...not that I will get to use it much as I'm always in the drivers seat

Thanks & kind regards,
-=Glyn=-
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Last edited by GlynH; 17th October 2021 at 11:51 PM.
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  #22  
Old 17th October 2021, 12:54 PM
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steamship steamship is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlynH View Post
I emailed Kufatec as it was them who made the harness but they were about as much help as a chocolate teapot and refused to send me a wiring diagram as I didn't purchase directly from them despite their name plastered all over the bag it came in and are the sole manufacturer of the harness AFAIK.
Was initially going to say that it doesn't look too bad and that it should just be a case of laying everything out, but that's a bit naff of them to refuse the installation guide.

EDIT: Not sure if you've come across this post, but it might help with some of the wiring issues: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...t-rse-2970957/
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2001 A8 D2 FL 3.7 Q - LPG Conversion, Engine: AKC, Gearbox:FBB, Colour:LY5X Aqua Blue pearl effect, Interior:WJ light beige/dark beige valcona leather with burr walnut inserts

My DIY jobs - Replaced alarm horn, Replaced Coolant Temp sensor, Updated RNS-D firmware, Installed Reversing Camera and Digital TV, Dashcam Installation, Retrofitted Rear Blinds, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Chrome Boot Struts

Sold! 2008 S8 D3 5.2 V10 - Engine: BSM, Gearbox:KLW, Colour:LY7F Suzuka Grey Pearl Effect, Interior:Black/Black with Silver/Black valcona leather with carbon atlas inserts, Bang & Olufsen, Heated windscreen, Soft-close doors, TV, DAB, AMI, Quad Zone, Auto Boot, Auto dim Mirrors, Keyless entry, PDC with rearview camera, AFS II Headlights

My DIY jobs - Fan Jet Windscreen Washers, Retrofitted Electric Side Blinds

Last edited by steamship; 17th October 2021 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Link to RSE Retrofit
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  #23  
Old 17th October 2021, 01:48 PM
GlynH GlynH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamship View Post
Was initially going to say that it doesn't look too bad and that it should just be a case of laying everything out, but that's a bit naff of them to refuse the installation guide.

EDIT: Not sure if you've come across this post, but it might help with some of the wiring issues: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...t-rse-2970957/
Yeah I read with interest that and another related post;

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...rofit-3004022/

Despite both of them completing their retrofits neither cover all of the points involved IMHO so I'm just trying to fill in the gaps over there for others who might want to tread this path in future.

Unfortunately neither of them have popped back to follow up on questions from other users despite being active since.

Figured I'd also follow up on my thread here so I'll make another post about fitting the MMI Control unit in the rear armrest shortly...

-=Glyn=-

Last edited by GlynH; 17th October 2021 at 01:52 PM.
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  #24  
Old 17th October 2021, 02:39 PM
GlynH GlynH is offline
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Well I've left fitting the hardest component until last - the MMI Control unit in the rear armrest adjacent to the HVAC panel.

Why do I think this is the hardest? Purely because of the surrounding wood trim.

In fact what I thought was a wooden top trim turned out to be a substantial aluminium casting with the wood bonded to the top. Not only does this have to be cut in exactly the right position and correct shape it also has to have a very clean, smooth cut as the panel does not have any overhang to hide rough edges.

The chrome trim will butt up against the edge of the aperture and any and all defects will be clearly seen.

There is also a thin transition piece that has to go between the MMI Control & HVAC panels which will not have any visible way of fixing because the MMI Control takes its locating holes & clips. This will have to be an interference fit to hold it in place.

It looks like neither panel has a straight edge along its long length being slightly curved further compounding the fit.

Both side trims will also have to be cut with the above proviso so may very well end up with new trim which even if I can find it available in Audi Exclusive Poplar Brown Silver will I guess be very expensive based upon other trim in the car such as wooden gear knob trim at nearly 300 and rear seat trims at 500 each.

I'd reached the conclusion I had nothing to lose by attempting to cut the original because at best it might just work but at worst I will need new trim anyway. Worth a shot in my book.

Here's the top trim removed to show the substantial construction making it difficult to cut;





First of all I attacked the side trims with Mr. Dremel. This was done in two stages.

Having taped up the side trims with masking tape and with the MMI Control panel dropped roughly in position albeit standing proud I used the lower outside of it to run round with a pen to mark the position, shape & contour of the unit to make my first cut allowing it to at least drop into to engage the fixings that will secure it in place.



Bear in mind this is not the finished size as the chrome trim protrudes a little further but does follow the same shape/profile and will allow me to locate it properly into the armrest so I can mark around the chrome trim for the final cut to give me this;




Close up of left cut.


Close up of right. You can see where the Dremel rotary sanding mandrel popped out of the top corner

Any suggestions on how I might remove/polish out those Dremel marks would be greatly appreciated. At least I have the offcuts to practice on before attacking the console itself.

Then the most difficult part to date - how to cut the aluminium/wood top plate. Too much to Dremel, not enough control over an air die grinder or cordless grinder, too much hard work and lack of precision with a hacksaw.

I have an Evolution Rage chop saw but have never used anything other than the supplied 24T Multi-purpose blade that cuts steel, aluminium, wood, plastic etc and I feared not achieving a clean enough cut. Something that is capable of cutting nails embedded in wood is probably not conducive to a nice finish!

Had a look round and found an 80T aluminium/wood blade that sounded perfect for the job.

I made a crude jig to hold the top trim out of a piece of wood with two grooves to locate the aluminium legs and three holes to accept corresponding protrusions on the bottom of the top trim. To mark the three holes I ran a piece of masking tape along the wood and pressed down on the trim with the legs in their corresponding grooves. Sure enough I was left with three clear indentations on the masking tape which I quickly opened up with a drill.

Hey presto...a custom made jig!

I popped the top trim back into place in the armrest, ran some more masking tape across it and marked in all four corners where the two cuts need to be to find my cutting lines. I then removed the whole trim for the last time and clamped it on to the bed of the chop saw.





It was at this point I would have said a little prayer if I believed in God but I don't so I didn't and just went for it





Result! A lovely clean cut followed by a little hand filing on the detached piece to achieve the slight curve and desired fit & finish.



Not too shabby and just the thin transition piece between the two control units to cut now which was pretty much a mirror procedure;



And Voila!



Not perfect but then again I won't be staring at it as I'm in the driving seat but it's not holding anything else up and to be honest it looks like I have factory RSE even if it doesn't work yet!

When I pop the MMI Control unit out to connect the wiring I intend to run some dark wood stain and/or polish in and around the edge of the aperture to disguise the edges a little more.

I'm really disappointed that I slipped with the Dremel right at the final hurdle when polishing that corner out (it would probably have fitted OK as was) but it is what it is. My neighbour who was holding the hoover tube to suck up the dust while I was cutting recoiled in horror at the language that spouted from my lips!

I will keep my eyes open for the proper trim at the right price at a time to suit me just to satisfy my OCD.

If I was to sum up the job I would say "It went better than expected but not quite as well as I hoped" but overall I am glad I am pleased with the result even though if anyone asks me to do it on their car I would politely decline as I would be washing my hair that day!

Just that wiring to do now when I am happy I know where everything goes and then I can switch on, setup and keep fingers crossed everything works!

-=Glyn=-
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Last edited by GlynH; 17th October 2021 at 03:27 PM.
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  #25  
Old 17th October 2021, 04:14 PM
steamship's Avatar
steamship steamship is offline
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Originally Posted by GlynH View Post
Unfortunately neither of them have popped back to follow up on questions from other users despite being active since.
That's something I find annoying as well, especially those who say they will provide feedback when they've finished a job... and never do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlynH View Post
Figured I'd also follow up on my thread here so I'll make another post about fitting the MMI Control unit in the rear armrest shortly...
Now that takes some guts using a chop saw on those parts.

Up to that point I was thinking it wasn't too bad a job with just cutting the seat back parts.
__________________
2001 A8 D2 FL 3.7 Q - LPG Conversion, Engine: AKC, Gearbox:FBB, Colour:LY5X Aqua Blue pearl effect, Interior:WJ light beige/dark beige valcona leather with burr walnut inserts

My DIY jobs - Replaced alarm horn, Replaced Coolant Temp sensor, Updated RNS-D firmware, Installed Reversing Camera and Digital TV, Dashcam Installation, Retrofitted Rear Blinds, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Chrome Boot Struts

Sold! 2008 S8 D3 5.2 V10 - Engine: BSM, Gearbox:KLW, Colour:LY7F Suzuka Grey Pearl Effect, Interior:Black/Black with Silver/Black valcona leather with carbon atlas inserts, Bang & Olufsen, Heated windscreen, Soft-close doors, TV, DAB, AMI, Quad Zone, Auto Boot, Auto dim Mirrors, Keyless entry, PDC with rearview camera, AFS II Headlights

My DIY jobs - Fan Jet Windscreen Washers, Retrofitted Electric Side Blinds
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