Engine, ABS and Transmission Codes

[steamship]

Had this posted under a D2 Transmission thread, but decided to repost here.

The car (3.7 40v) got gas conversion done in November. In December, had it checked after 1,000 mile and they cleaned the MAF sensor. Had been having issues with it throwing up both ABS and Traction control lights on dash. When these were on, moving gear lever into Drive sometimes gave a small 'thump'. Also experienced issues with stalls when both lights on and slowing at junctions.

Recently had timing belt, water pump, thermostat, pulleys, etc changed. I replaced most of the vacuum hoses that I could manage, especially those that had shown signs of wear and tear. Also had a new MAF sensor and another ABS pump and controller fitted (from A8parts) as was getting a G201 sensor error. Looking back through all my log files, this G201 error had appeared before (although intermittently). Lambda sensors were checked and working. Since getting car back, it is still throwing the same errors as before. Car went for MOT last week, and luckily for me, it behaved itself during that time.

These are the three sets of errors I'm currently getting:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No: 4D0 907 558 AB
Component: 3.7L V8/5V G 0002
Coding: 11753
Shop #: WSC 23143
VCID: 6DDBD76D278ADF1
WAUZZZ4D92N002072 AUZ7Z0A1855153

10 Faults Found:
17530 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S2
P1122 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17831 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1
P1423 - 35-00 - Insufficient Flow
17819 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2
P1411 - 35-00 - Insufficient Flow
17548 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B2 S2
P1140 - 35-00 - Internal Resistance too High
17521 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S1
P1113 - 35-10 - Internal Resistance too High - Intermittent
17535 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult)
P1127 - 35-00 - System too Rich
17537 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2 (Mult)
P1129 - 35-00 - System too Rich
16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add)
P1137 - 35-10 - System too Rich - Intermittent
17547 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Add)
P1139 - 35-10 - System too Rich - Intermittent
Readiness: 0010 0101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8D0-907-389.lbl
Part No: 4D0 907 389 E
Component: ABS/ESP allrad D56
Coding: 08397
Shop #: WSC 02313
VCID: 31630B1DFB327B1

3 Faults Found:
01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)
48-00 - Supply Voltage
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200)
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
18265 - Load Signal
P1857 - 35-00 - Error Message from ECU

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 4D0 927 156 DT
Component: AG5 01V 3.7l5V RdW 1920
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 7EF9E0217AEC549

1 Fault Found:
18265 - Load Signal
P1857 - 35-00 - Error Message from ECU

---------------------------------------------------------------------

On my previous post, recommendation was to get MAF changed as a starter. This was done prior to getting other work done, but it is still throwing the MAF error and other codes.

The G200 error is a new one I've never seen before.

Is it possible that some of these could be due to not enough power from the battery? Reason for asking that is that I did the scan earlier, cleared the codes and did another scan. I then tried starting the car and it wouldn't turn over. I ended up using a booster pack to start it. I had been out yesterday in the car during daylight and did around 20 mile. The car also sits out all the time. I also came across a post somewhere about another VAG car saying it was because the alternator was on the way out.

I can't really afford to keep fitting new parts to the car in the hope that something may fix it. As it is, I now have a spare MAF sensor and ABS pump/controller. As even, any help would be much appreciated, and what if any other checks can I run that would help diagnose the problem?

[steamship]

So, since making the last posting, I was out again for a 70 mile run, with about 8 stops along the way. While out, both ABS and Traction control lights were on permanently.

At one stop (about half way), I whipped out my laptop and cleared the same error codes in 01, 02 and 03. However, two problems arose. The car wouldn't start. Heard the ticking, but car wouldn't crank. Luckily I had the booster pack in the car, so used that. I also noticed both ABS and Traction control lights came on again straight away.

I've been searching the forum and the net, and came across several posts relating to possible corrosion to the power feed on the O/S chassis leg, so have just returned from doing that. No corrosion at all. I also did the battery check. I get 11.9V at the battery terminals and 14V when the car is running. VCDS reports 13.86V, so hoping ruling out alternator issues.

So it looks like a new battery is the order of the day. Any chance that this will clear the 'supply voltage' errors I sometimes get?

One last query. Any idea whereabouts the 'Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200)' can be found? I can find references to it on TTs, but not on an A8 (D2).

[Goran]

Yup, 11.9V is a lead acid battery with 0 capacity left.
If its been sitting like that for any lenght of time its badly sulphated and probably close to useless. Take it out, charge it at home for at least 18 hours, then apply a small load to it like a 12v bulb for a few minutes, then check voltage, if it is below 12.4 thats a bad sign.
The purpose of the bulb or any other light load is to knock the false fully charged voltage down to its true sulphated value.

When my previous battery was close to death and car barely turned over, I also got some spurrious codes to do with ABS and transmission, those codes never came back after I installed a new battery.
I hope its just the battery, good luck.

[steamship]

Did the usual Google search for car batteries and ended up getting a Bosch 100Ah one from Halfords (and no more expensive). Fitted it there, cleared all the error codes and then drove the 3 mile back home. Did another scan and got the following:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No: 4D0 907 558 AB
Component: 3.7L V8/5V G 0002
Coding: 11753
Shop #: WSC 23143
VCID: 6DDBD76D278ADF1
WAUZZZ4D92N002072 AUZ7Z0A1855153

7 Faults Found:
17530 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S2
P1122 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 35-00 - Signal too Low
17548 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B2 S2
P1140 - 35-00 - Internal Resistance too High
16955 - Brake Switch (F)
P0571 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
17521 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S1
P1113 - 35-10 - Internal Resistance too High - Intermittent
17535 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult)
P1127 - 35-00 - System too Rich
17537 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2 (Mult)
P1129 - 35-00 - System too Rich
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 4D0 927 156 DT
Component: AG5 01V 3.7l5V RdW 1920
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 7EF9E0217AEC549

2 Faults Found:
18265 - Load Signal
P1857 - 35-00 - Error Message from ECU
17087 - Brake Switch (F)
P0703 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8D0-907-389.lbl
Part No: 4D0 907 389 E
Component: ABS/ESP allrad D56
Coding: 08397
Shop #: WSC 02313
VCID: 31630B1DFB327B1

1 Fault Found:
18265 - Load Signal
P1857 - 35-00 - Error Message from ECU

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My G200 error has now disappeared but now have the highlighted ones above. Have never had that one before, and ironically, I replaced the brake switch at the start of last week (having read somewhere that they sometimes cause ABS errors).

The MAF is now throwing a different error to the last scan as well.

Also managed to clean one of the front ABS sensors, but the bolt on the other one is seized tight, so will have to borrow some tools to shift it.

[Goran]

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along.
In the meantime I can suggest the following:

MAF - To test your MAF, log it at idle. I have attached the factory test procedure.

Lambda series 1 - intermittent, I think Ainarssems said its only the heating element going out when it says "internal resistance too high"

Lambda series 2 - they only monitor the cats, sounds like heating is dead on those, but maybe they work ok once the exhaust warms them up? They will trigger the CEL in the dash though

Fuel trim - could be from bad MAF

Here are some ElsaWin factory test procedures for MAF, Lambdas, and Brake Light switch. If you can best check for yourself if these components are operating to spec.

[steamship]

Originally Posted by Goran

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along.
In the meantime I can suggest the following:

MAF - To test your MAF, log it at idle. I have attached the factory test procedure.

Lambda series 1 - intermittent, I think Ainarssems said its only the heating element going out when it says "internal resistance too high"

Lambda series 2 - they only monitor the cats, sounds like heating is dead on those, but maybe they work ok once the exhaust warms them up? They will trigger the CEL in the dash though

Fuel trim - could be from bad MAF

Here are some ElsaWin factory test procedures for MAF, Lambdas, and Brake Light switch. If you can best check for yourself if these components are operating to spec.

Thanks for the PDFs. Some light reading for me tonight.

[steamship]

Originally Posted by Goran

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along.
In the meantime I can suggest the following:

MAF - To test your MAF, log it at idle. I have attached the factory test procedure.

Lambda series 1 - intermittent, I think Ainarssems said its only the heating element going out when it says "internal resistance too high"

Lambda series 2 - they only monitor the cats, sounds like heating is dead on those, but maybe they work ok once the exhaust warms them up? They will trigger the CEL in the dash though

Fuel trim - could be from bad MAF

Here are some ElsaWin factory test procedures for MAF, Lambdas, and Brake Light switch. If you can best check for yourself if these components are operating to spec.

So, after a 50 mile run yesterday, I connected up the laptop and went through the various tests.

- Brake switch is fine (but still throwing that weird error).
- First MAF test was returning 26.3% on Load and 0.00g/s on Air Mass. Changed it to the old one again and reran the test. This time was returning 15.8% Load and 3.97-5.61g/s Air Mass, within the specified range.
- Lambda heating (measuring block 41) returned 0.3, S1 on, 0.1 and S2 on. Block 42 returned 0.1, S1 on, 0.1 and S2 on. The only odd thing I noticed was that on block 41, S2 was flicking between On and Off for several minutes before finally settling to On.
- Lambda upstream (measuring block 30) returned 111, 110, 111 and 100. Block 33 returned (-4.7 to -9.4), (0.085 to 0.715), (-4.7 to 0.0) and (0.065 to 0.72).
- Lambda downstream - didn't do this one as wasn't 100% sure on what to do.

I was out again today for around 60 mile, and what surprised me was that for about the first 20-25 mile, I didn't have the ABS and Traction Control lit on the dash. The car behaved as normal with no signs of hesitation or stalling. Then for some reason, the lights came on and stayed on, with the consequence of having the car stall twice at junctions.

On one of the documents, it says to 'Check intake system for leaks and rectify unmetered air'. Exactly what should I be checking here? Would this include the likes of the small vacuum hoses criss-crossing the engine? Just wondering as one of the hoses that runs along the top of the right hand side of the engine starts as a braided hose at the back, changes to a smaller diameter hose pushed inside the braided hose, and then back to the braided hose at the front, again with the smaller hose just pushed inside it.

[SilverS8]

A cheap fix just to eliminate false air, change all visible vacum lines and also run over the whole bay with "Start gas" when engine is idling to see if there is any leaks.

Jan

[steamship]

Originally Posted by SilverS8

A cheap fix just to eliminate false air, change all visible vacum lines and also run over the whole bay with "Start gas" when engine is idling to see if there is any leaks.

Jan

Never heard of 'Start gas' but a quick search on Google returned an interesting video from EricTheCarGuy, so will have a look at that. Thanks.

[SilverS8]

Not sure what its called at you end.. Its a regulat soray can bought in any Automotive store that is used to spray into carborators or injection system. Car will run on this stuff for. a short while.

When used to check for leaks you will have an increase in rpm when sprayed on the leak.

Starter fluid might be the english description

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starting_fluid